Showing posts with label Phoenician fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Phoenician fashion. Show all posts

Salah Barka—the Tuniversal Designer!

Yesterday in my introduction to this year’s exploration of menswear around the world, I made mention to one of Africa’s most acclaimed designers, Salah Barka.

The 35-year-old Tunisian designer hails from a city in southern Tunisia, Gabès, which is situated in the territory of Carthage.

Although Salah worked first as a costume designer before he entered the world of fashion in 1998, he is totally self taught, having studied fashion from perusing the web!

Salah creates fashion-forward collections that span the 3,000-year history of his homeland, as he references the styles, fabrics, jewelry, and garments of the ancient Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Berbers, Ottomans, and Arabs.

Typical of the collections are the fez hats and hooded cloaks of North Africa, the equestrian pants of West Africa, and the Tunisian-style pants that slim at the calves.

Winner of the Silver Thread Prize, Salah Barka presents his collections regularly at Tunisia Fashion Week.

I am very excited to become acquainted with this exquisite designer and, hopefully, to learn more about Tunisian menswear from the Tuniversity of Salah Barka!
For more images, please click here.

Photos Courtesy & Copyright Salah Barka.

History of Menswear: Table of Contents

China
The UighursXinjiang, the Uighurs & Turkic Fashion
Guizhou MinoritiesGuizhou Minorities in the 80's
Miao
Zhuang
Yao
Dong
Yi
Han ChinaHan Fashion
Before Mao
From Ming to Qing
Yuan & the Mongols
Empires of the Mediterranean
Aragon & CataloniaCatalan Designer Georgina Vendrell
Byzantium Roman Blockbusters, Byzantium & Barbarians
CarthageCartharge, of Phoenicians and Punics
Greece & Magna GraeciaGrottoes, Grapes & Greeks
Normandy Naples, Normans & Nabbings
Nuraghic CivilizationNuraghic Men Rocked the Styles!
Book Review I: "The People of Bronze"
Book Review II: "The People of Bronze"
Book Review III: "The People of Bronze"
The Nuraghic “People of Bronze” Come Back to Life
Ottoman Empire

Turkish Men's Fashion: A Glance in History
B-Turk: Relics of the Ottomans on Tees

PhoeniciaPhoenicians: the People of Purple
Roman EmpireRoman Blockbusters, Byzantium & Barbarians
Saracens & Barbary PiratesSaracens, Corsairs & Barbary Pirates
Islands of the Mediterranean
Intro The Mediterranean Isles of Italy
Mallorca The New Skins of Gori De Palma
CreteDimitri Stavrou’s Stylish Ride from Cyprus to London
Ischia & the Bay of NaplesIschia: Roots on a Rim
Grottoes, Grapes & Greeks
Roman Blockbusters, Byzantium & Barbarians
Naples, Normans & Nabbings
From Feudalism to Family Feuds
Of Kings and KUKs
Bourbon Anyone?
Naples, Nations & New Notions
20th-Century Island Life in the Bay of Naples
Popular Island Dress & "L'ndrezzata"
Sardinia

Introduction to Sardinia & Traditional Sardinian Menswear
Timeline: Sardinia's History in a Nutshell
Bagella: Preserving Traditional Menswear in Sardinia

Oristano: Its Musuem & Festivals
Bauladu—Country Living in Sardinia
Paolo Midolo: the Pride of Orani

North Africa
NomadsThe Tuaregs
Sub-Saharan Africa
West AfricaThe Rich World of African Menswear
Digging Deeper into West Africa: Yoruba
Religious Movements
The HutteritesThe Hutterites

Phoenicians: the People of Purple

The New York Times has reported that 1 in 17 men living today on the coasts of North Africa and southern Europe have a direct, male-line Phoenician ancestor.

Phoenician expert Salim George Khalaf, with whom I have recently become acquainted, is one such descendant.

But who were they?

The Phoenicians were great seafarers—an ancient maritime power—and the direct forefathers of modern-day Lebanon.

Experts like Sanford Holst conclude that the Phoenicians emerged from the Canaanite peoples of the Levant, forming their society about 3200 BC in Byblos (present-day Jbeil, Lebanon).

For millennia, the Phoenicians sailed throughout the Mediterranean, not as invaders but as peaceful traders.

About 1100 BC, they began setting up colonies along the coasts and on islands like Sicily, Sardinia, Ischia, and Mallorca. Their most illustrious colony, however, was undoubtedly Carthage. But Sardinia was attractive to the Phoenicians for the extraction of metals and ores.

In the 8th century BC, the Phoenicians founded the Sardinian colonies of Nora, Karalis (Cagliari), Sulci, and Tharros. Situated on the Bay of Oristano, Tharros is now an open-air museum of ongoing excavation with one section submerged under the sea. The same applies to Nora.

While historians often state that the foundations of Western Society rest on the ancient pillars of Rome and Greece, many have sadly overlooked the sturdy pillar of the ancient Phoenicians.

Phoenician culture profoundly impacted the Mediterranean in the areas of shipbuilding, trade, religion, language, and the alphabet, which is the ancestor of most modern alphabets today!

Forerunners to a global economy, the intercultural spirit, and the concept of networking, the Phoenicians traded in metals, glass, wood, spices, and jewels. They even perfected the art of dog breeding. Their main industry, however, was textiles.

Sometimes referred to as the “purple people,” the Phoenicians extracted a purple dye from the shells of sea snails called Murex. So notable were the Phoenicians for this Tyrian purple powder that they obtained their name from the ancient Greek word for purple—phoinikois.

Typically, Phoenician men wore a type of skirt that extended from the waist to the knees, closely resembling the Egyptian shenti. At times, a full-body robe with folds or pleats was worn underneath.

The upper body was clothed in a close-fitting tunic with elbow-length sleeves. The tunic was joined with metal rings or clasps at the shoulders. Necklaces of beeds were fashionably hung from one ring to another and across the chest.

Gracefully draped in folds, mantles could be thrown over one shoulder, reaching as far as the knee. Borders of garments for the upper class were often embroidered.

Phoenician men sported large pendants, armlets, bracelets, and signet rings, as well as ornamental metalic collars similar to the Egyptians. They wore earrings and nose rings, as well. Preferring long curly hair and beards with no mustaches, the men sported cone-shaped caps.

2010 Trends & Takeaways from the Period:
For the past several seasons, various shades of purple have dominated the color palette of menswear collections. Apparently, the trend will continue throughout the year, and just think: we owe it all to the Phoenicians!

Photo top left, Phoenician dress, Public Domain.
Photo upper right, Phoenician writing, Museo archedologico nazionale di Cagliari.
Photo lower left, Phoenician dress, Museo archeologico "Villa Sulcis."
Photo bottom right, Phoenician bracelet, Museo archedologico nazionale di Cagliari.