2010's Defining Moments

As 2010 draws to a close, it's time to reflect on the past 12 months and the fashion moments that have defined a year in style. (via style.com)





From Tom Ford’s return to womenswear and Lanvin’s collection for H&M to Giles Deacon's appointment at Ungaro, this has been a year of newsworthy highs and tragic lows - Alexander McQueen died in February and Corinne Day passed away in August.

And then there are the year's most memorable events - Naomi Campbell's Fashion For Relief show, Fashion's Night Out, the first ever Fashion's Night In and Louis Vuitton's star-studded maison opening - not to mention Emma Watson's new pixie crop and Chanel's incredible iceberg at its autumn/winter 2010-11 show.

The Lowdown On Valentino's Incredible Roman Extravaganza

"Make it beautiful." That was all Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti told Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda when they hired them to design an exhibition marking 45 years of the designer's work. Everyone connected with the anniversary celebrations in Rome had clearly been given the same brief. The century is still young, but Valentino has set the party bar impossibly high with his 36-hour extravaganza.

There were four main way stations: Friday's exhibition opening at the Meier-designed Ara Pacis Museum followed by a dinner at the Temple of Venus, then Saturday's presentation of Valentino's couture collection and a black-tie ball on the grounds of the Villa Borghese. So, plenty of opportunities for Val's gals to work their way through a wardrobe of his outfits.



"Nothing looks old," a bedazzled Elizabeth Saltzman Walker declared, speaking for everyone at the Ara Pacis. To prove the point, Dr. Lisa Airan was wearing a dress from the archive that was designed 40 years ago but could have been from Saturday's show. "Valentino made one of my wedding dresses," Astrid Muñoz said cryptically. "It was red."

Milan Fashion Week: Dolce & Gabbana’s 25th anniversary celebrates silhouette, Sicily and sensuality

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Italy's most famous designer duo, celebrated a quarter-century of collaboration at Milan Fashion Week.

Their 50th Dolce & Gabbana collection was a romantic and poetic salute to their heritage of clothes for the sensual woman, both dressed and undressed.

The show was staged in the old Metropole Theatre, where Maria Callas once sang, which is now a Dolce & Gabbana headquarters.

A total of 75 models, wearing variations on tailored black jackets over black satin and lace corsetry, formed a dramatic visual encapsulation of the brand's tradition, walking against a backdrop of black-and-white footage of the work done in the studio to bring the collection to fruition.

The collection was as much a romantic homage to the duo's strong feminine ideal, as it was about a shared, enduring passion for designing beautiful clothes.

Called 'Sartorialita, Sicilianita, Sensualita', the collection, for next autumn/winter, revisited the brand's signatures of tailoring, corsetry, leopard and rose-print, and the age-old black garb of the Sicilian woman, updated in knits, lightweight silks and stretch fabrics.

The news that Alexander McQueen has killed himself is particularly devastating because it always felt to me like he’d be the last man standing. He was restless, but so pragmatic with it I assumed he had what it took to endure the extreme situations he placed himself in. He was also an arch romantic with a pessimistic streak. It produced some of the most beautiful, shocking images in the history of fashion, but it’s a state of mind that can lead to endless disappointments. The death of McQueen’s mother last week would have validated his pessimism. It would undoubtedly have taken away his most vital support. It’s awful to imagine him trying—and failing—to cope, and one can only hope that, if he was looking for peace, he found it. For everyone left behind, there will eventually be consolation, however scant right now, in a body of work whose power will never die.

Alexander McQueen’s Memorial - During London Fashion Week in September, the fashion industry gathered at St Paul’s Cathedral for Alexander McQueen’s memorial service. Kate Moss, Anna Wintour, Annabel Nielson, Sarah Jessica Parker and Naomi Campbell were in attendance to hear Bjork – dressed as an angel – give a moving performance of Billie Holiday's Gloomy Sunday.

Usually, you wouldn’t want to see this much skin at a 90th birthday party. But when it’s a 90th birthday party for Paris Vogue, all bets are off. Carine Roitfeld and her Gallic crew threw a bal masqué in Paris last night, and though the faces were obscured, not much else was. Sheer—which has been all over the Spring runways—was the look of the night. The charge was led by the hostess, in a see-through, leopard-spotted Givenchy number, and her heiress apparent, daughter Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, in a gold-embellished sheer number from Peter Dundas’ Spring ‘11 Pucci runway. Natalia Vodianova, Mariacarla Boscono, Lily Donaldson, and Bianca Brandolini d’Adda were also feeling the transparent vibe. (Some, like Maryna Linchuk, above, went for sheer masks, too.)

Over 1,200 guests descended on Rome's Palazzo delle Esposizioni last night for an exclusive preview of Bulgari's 125th anniversary retrospective. "I want a snake bracelet from 1972 all in gold," said Ginnifer Goodwin as she admired a roomful of the Italian jeweler's signature Tubogas serpents, including Diana Vreeland's to-die-for belt. Chloe Sevigny also counts herself a fan of Bulgari's seventies and eighties creations. "I've worn so many pieces in this exhibition," she told us. Lucky girl, but perhaps not quite as fortunate as Elizabeth Taylor. The jewels that the legendary actress loaned from her personal collection were arrayed in a room of their own with Richard Burton's famous quote decorating one wall: "I introduced her to beer and she introduced me to Bulgari." When in Rome…

Alexander McQueen’s Last Collection – A week after McQueen’s death, PPR - the company that owns the Alexander McQueen brand – confirmed that the collection that the designer had been working on would be shown during Paris Fashion Week, at an invitation only private salon presentation.



The following month, a select group of editors gathered at the PPR headquarters to see a moving tribute to McQueen’s great talent. To the backdrop of classical music and gilt-edged mirrors, 15 exquisite looks, inspired by religious iconography, were shown in a moment of profound poignancy.

Fashion’s Night In – After the phenomenal success of Fashion’s Night Out, this November VOGUE.COM brought all the fun inside and online for the first ever Fashion’s Night In.



From exclusive product launches and one-off designer collaborations to competitions and live fashion advice, it was one big online fashion party. And all for a good cause too – a portion of the night’s sales was donated to the children’s charity KidsCo.

Fashion For Relief – Naomi Campbell staged her Fashion For Relief catwalk show at Somerset House just a few days after Alexander McQueen's death. In tribute to the designer, Kate Moss and McQueen’s muse Annabelle Neilson took to the catwalk with Naomi in pieces from his last collection.

Fashion Kisses – After the moving catwalk tribute paid to McQueen’s memory by Naomi, Kate and Annabelle, the mood was lifted when comedians David Walliams (who was engaged to Vogue cover girl Lara Stone at the time and - married her in May), and James Corden camped it up spectacularly down the catwalk before snogging for the cameras.

Fashion’s Night Out –The international, global celebration of fashion and shopping was back again for 2010 and even more fun than last year - with Bugsy Malone-themed dance lessons in Rupert Sanderson, cookery lessons in Browns, customising classes at Harvey Nicks (from Erdem, Christopher Kane and Jonathan Saunders), make-up lessons in Chanel and live music in the windows of Matthew Williamson and Burberry.

Lanvin for H&M – In September, after much speculation about which label would be the next to collaborate with H&M, it was announced that Lanvin would be joining forces with the high street brand for a collection. “What intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public,” said Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz of the collaboration.

Riccardo Tisci Autumn/Winter 2010-11 Couture Show for Givenchy – Presented in the 18th Century Hotel D’Evreaux – which was given to Madame de Pompadour by King Louis XV- the fashion world was left abuzz after Tisci’s small but perfectly formed couture show, which was based on the Mexican Day of the Dead celebration and Frida Kahlo’s three great passions: religion, anatomy and sensuality.



“What’s amazing with his couture is that he manages to make it modern while infusing it with all the gravitas and impact of couture and you really get to see the detail of it,” said Vogue’s fashion director Kate Phelan.

The Burberry Front Row – Since Burberry returned to show in London for the 25th anniversary celebrations of London Fashion Week in September 2009, the brand’s front row has consistently been one of the week’s starriest. The spring/summer 2011 show was no exception - Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, Andy Murray, Serena Williams, Cat Deeley and Mario Testino were among the famous faces gathered to see Christopher Bailey’s spring collection.

The Death of Corinne Day – After a long struggle with brain cancer, fashion photographer Corinne Day passed away on August 27. Her lens had captured some of the most iconic images and famous faces - including Kate Moss - of the past two decades and her talent was charted across the pages and covers of Vogue.

Tom Ford’s Return to Womenswear – Tom Ford made a triumphant return to womenswear in New York during Fashion Week for spring/summer 2011. After dedicating the last six years since leaving Gucci to designing menswear and movie making, Ford acted as master of ceremonies at his Madison Avenue store, where he introduced his collection - which was modelled by Daphne Guinness, Beyoncé, Stella Tennant, Julianne Moore, Marisa Berenson and Lauren Hutton - to a super exclusive gathering of editors and buyers.

And finally, my dear Fellow Fashionistas – FM is coming back!

n.d.c. “Sunday Mississippi”

The “Sunday Mississippi" of n.d.c. is a limited-edition shoe made for the “Cabinet of Curiosities” by Thomas Erber and to be presented from 29 November to 31 December 2010.

Inspired by the working class of the 1920s, the godillot[i] (combat boot) “Sunday Mississippi” is manufactured with the greatest respect for tradition by the finest craftsmen in Europe—experts in handcrafted shoes.

Mounted on a traditional construction Blake, the shoe combines the strength of calf leather as shown here in a range of khaki and brown to the refined exoticism of vintage alligator skin.

The patinated, aged aspect of n.d.c collections results from a process of manufacturing, which brings the brand special care.

The shoes are first soaked in an infusion of bark, minerals, and other natural ingredients and, then, are washed with natural soap and dried slowly before being coated with a balm specially designed by n.d.c. to give them an “already-made” appearance

Check out the boot here.

Photos Copyright n.d.c., Courtesy of Pressing.

[i] In the 19th century, Alexis Godillot manufactured military boots, and up until WWII the godillot was the military boot.

The Heritage of L.G.R. Sunglasses

Last year I spent some time on the island of Sardinia researching ancient menswear as I explored the ruins of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians.

This year—the second week of September, to be precise—I will fly to Tunisia to visit the ancient ruins of Carthage.

In preparation for this trip, I have been researching the history of menswear in Northern Africa, such as with the nomadic tribe known as the Tuaregs.

Recently I came across another Italian, born 1982 in Rome, who also shares an affinity with the continent of Africa.

Luca Gnecchi Ruscone has strong ties with the continent as he spent his childhood between Italy and Africa.

His father lives in Kenya today, while his mother was born in Eritrea, where his grandfather had been working since the 1930’s.

Interestingly, this grandfather imported optical frames from Italy. Several years ago, Luca was in Eritrea rummaging through his grandfathers warehouse of Italian imports. There, the young man came across an old model of sunglasses, which sparked his creativity.

This rich heritage has provided Luca with a source of endless inspiration behind every timeless frame of L.G.R. sunglasses, which are hand-crafted and name after geographical locations in Africa.

See the models here.

Photos Copyright L.G.R. Sunglasses.

Maharishi Spring/Summer 2011 ‘Theatre of War’

This season Maharishi presents a 1940’s North African Desert military inspired collection entitled ‘Theatre of War’.

With references to the forerunners of the SAS, the Long Range Desert Group (L.R.D.G.), the range features military inspired staples in distressed cottons and natural fibers including washed Irish linen and hemp, alongside more elaborate pieces in super lightweight voluminous voiles and recycled vintage parachute cord. A muted palette of washed vintage olive, sand and white makes up the main color theme of the collection.

Pink Panther jeeps transport the LRDG troops deep into the war torn Sahara. Fatigued by sand storms and lack of water, the soldiers go AWOL into deeper Africa, taking on elements of safari and indigenous clothing before disappearing even deeper into the desert, finally arriving at a heavenly watery oasis, where traditional camouflage and mud print colors turn into vivid blues on white.

Maharishi aims to convey a strong anti-war sentiment through its use of camouflage - reclaiming its symbolic value away from war, back to its roots in nature and development by artists and to highlight objections to continued 21st century desert warfare.

Maharishi literally translated means great seer, started in 1994 with the vision to create environmentally sound, fair-trade produced, long-lasting, high-quality, utilitarian clothing. The collection has always included hemp and natural fibers, organic cottons and recycled military clothing.

In 2004, Hardy Blechman, founder and creative director of Maharishi published DPM Disruptive Pattern Material, a 944-page encyclopedia of camouflage, which documents his theory to detach camouflage from its military associations and promote its natural roots and artistic influences. All production facilities are SA8000 and ISO9001 compliant.

Have a look at the collection here.

Photo & slideshow Copyright Maharishi.

Aertex—Since 1888

Today I was introduced to menswear label that dates back to 1888, which, according to Aertex, goes down in history for several memorable reasons:

Painter Van Gough infamously cut off his ear.

The first ever motion picture was filmed.

An innovative fashion brand was born.

In the 1800’s, there was a mill owner in Lancashire by the name of Lewis Haslam began experimenting with the theory of aeration as he trapped air in the warp and weft of fabric—hence, the Aertex company was born!

In World War II, the British Land Army was clad in Aertex uniforms, while the British 7th Armored Division wore Aertex bush shirts and jackets.

By the 1960’s, Aertex had established itself as a solid sports and school wear brand. Now with an online store, Aertex serves customers in 70 countries.

Watch the video and, then, see the collection here.

Spring/Summer 2010 Lookbook
(Collaboration with Manchester band, the Heartbreaks)

Photo & slideshow Copyright Aertex.

Alpargata Shoes from Paez

Here’s a fun, funky, fair-trade abiding shoe company called Paez (pronounced as ‘pice’), which specializes in a compfortable shoe named alpargatas!

Alpargatas, which are a lightweight shoe made out of canvas, are said to have been brought to Argentina about 1830 by Basque immigrants. (Paez alledges that alpargatas originated in Egypt as a sandal.)

Originally available only in black and white, Paez alpargatas now come in a rainbow of colors—as they are manufactured totally in Argentina.

Photos Copyright Paez.

Fromanteel: A Unique Style

When speaking about their watches, Alfredo and Martijn are very explicit: “Fromanteel has a style of its own and prefers to maintain this unique style.”

While designing their first collection, the limited edition ‘Day & Night’, Alfredo and Martijn discussed extensively every considerable and small detail in the design. This proved to be a very hard, though intense and successful cooperation. “Without friction, there is no shine.” Same as the fact that without ‘Day’ there is no ‘Night’—hence the name of the collection.

The two say rarely to be guided by the will of other people. They are inspired by the modern man, but deliberately choose not to base their decisions on what others think. They design watches according to their own taste. It has to be something they would like to wear and what they think will look good on them.

A Fromanteel watch is not some trendy, fashionable watch that is easily adopted by the masses. A Fromanteel watch has a story that only the wearer can tell: the story about the history of the name, its origin and the fact it is a limited edition.

It’s also not a conspicuous watch. Fromanteel watches are subtle, stylish and only the wearer himself knows it fits his personal taste and style.

In the end, it is the contrast and connection, found in the brand, its history and the characters of the designers that make the slogan ‘History is Now’ a perfect fit for the brand.

Before drawing our first packaging proposals we decided to first study how goods were packaged and shipped in the era of Fromanteel, some 400 years ago.

We discovered that the materials, which were used at that time, were made to withstand even rougher transport conditions than nowadays found with modern cargo transport.

The 2010 Collection
While designing the 2010 Collection we stood still at what motivates the modern man when it comes to watches and style in general. We discovered that men are very different in their style preferences. The motivation behind these different style preferences is what fascinated us and drove us to design the 2010 Collection.

To men, style is something personal and cannot be compared with a fashion statement or simply what is in trendy at the moment. Fashion has always been, and always will be dynamic. But style is timeless. Fashion is largely concerned with what is cool, or what trends are at what time, etc. While just a few men exhibit true style, timeless cool and display of good taste.

In our study we found three interesting style archetypes. One is the Dandy—or as we would like to call him ‘The Cultural Creative’ man. The Cultural Creative is our informal interpretation of the Dandy. Where the Dandy is cockney and expresses a foremost English style, the Cultural Creative is not. He dress and grooms himself every day by set of formal rules but knows how to play around, expressing a creative style of his own.

The ‘Johannes’ timepiece is inspired by the lifestyle of the Cultural Creative. The man that recognizes all the efforts and contributions that a single, well interpreted, detail, does for an outfit.

The ‘Rebel without a Cause’ is next archetype we studied in detail. An important era for the ‘Rebel’ – as we abbreviate him, was the 60’s of the last century. Raised in a very formal era (the 1950’s) the Rebel saw the world differently and defined freedom as one of his highest goals. Freedom to express and to live his life the way he wants. The Rebel lives by this credo and knows that the credo also implies freedom of movement. To be, to travel and to go wherever you want to, whenever you want to. The world as he sees it, is on the palm of his hands. The ‘Vintage1607’ is our interpretation of this style archetype.

Before designing the ‘Time MachinE’ we realized that the third style archetype we based our design on is actually not a style archetype pur sang. It might be the result of a transformation of any archetype.

This sub-archetype comes out at night. We call him the ‘Nightlife Smart Casual’ man. He is the self-confident cosmopolitan man. His playfield is the city at night. The night flirts and presents many temptations. The faith hearted obeys the night, however the strong seizes it and makes the night his own. The ‘TimemachinE’ is all about reliability and precision designed to fit this style ‘archetype’ .

The result of our study is the 2010 Collection. This collection is a stylish ode to the modern man.

The Generations Series ‘Johannes’ Named after the oldest son of Ahasuerus Fromanteel and limited at 1638 pieces in black & white, this first Fromanteel watch of the Generations Series represents in its design and detail everything the modern dandy, or as we like to say; the cultural creative man would like to see in a watch.

Johannes Fromanteel was born in 1638. As the oldest son he got to spend much time in the clockmaker’s workshop learning and observing the magnificent craftsmanship of his father. After years of practice and study, Johannes eventually followed in his father’s footsteps and became a master clockmaker.

The watch ‘Johannes’ is an ode to the passionate son and the first watch in the Generations Series.

The design of the watch is inspired by the lifestyle of the Cultural Creative man. The man that recognizes all the efforts and contributions that a single, well interpreted, detail, does for an outfit.

The Generations‘Johannes’ is a watch for the man who knows that life has to be lived by a set of informal rules. The ‘Johannes’, a proud son’s story about detail and craftsmanship.

Photos Copyright Fromanteel.