Shopping in Amsterdam? Visit the OntFront Store!

Dutch menswear label OntFront opens their first brand store in Amsterdam at Haarlemmerdijk 121.

OntFront is contemporary designer brand for men, founded by the passionate entrepreneurs Tomas Overtoom and Liza Koifman. They’ve been creating collections since 2007 for the style conscious man with a rebellious touch—the bad boy and the gentleman. After fashion shows in Amsterdam, Hong Kong, and Shanghai and several pop up stores, the time has come for the official opening of the first OntFront brand store.

The interior of the store reflects the character of OntFront perfectly: smart with a rugged twist. Espresso brown walls give a warm yet manly feel. The golden clothing racks (designed by architect ADA design) float above the collections as crowns of kings.

At the entrance, a large picture of a Zazou is portrayed: a dandy rebel from Paris in 1944. The Zazous were an infamous subculture during the Second World War. These youngsters showed their identity and vision on life through clothing and slick hairdos. It was the time of bebop and swing jazz. The Zazou represents everything that OntFront stands for: style, music, originality, vision and creativity.

Next to the collections of OntFront, accessories, shoes and perfume are being sold from labels like Spyker, United Nude, Van Well, Filling Pieces, Gourmet, Fromanteel, Von Eusersdorff and Pasotti Ombrelli. You can also find a classic bebop hat, tie, or bow tie. All must-haves to go through life as a modern Zazou.

See more shots of the store here.



Photos & text Copyright OntFront.

Slava Zaitsev: the Glory of Russian Fashion

Several days ago, I covered the most recent edition of Ukraine’s Lviv Fashion Week, which was launched for the first time in March 2009.

Special guest at the event was Russian couturier, Vyacheslav Zaitsev; otherwise known as Slava, which means ‘glory’ in Russian.

The organizers of Lviv Fashion Week just sent me the photo gallery of Slava Zaitsev’s 2010 autumn/winter collection, which present at the event.

I hope you enjoy the show!

For further information on Slava and his son, please refer to the following articles:

Slava Zaitsev and the Glory of Russia Fashion Week
Grigor Zaitzev—A Sunbeam of His Father’s Glory.



Photo & slideshow Courtesy & Copyright Lviv Fashion Week.

“Shift Gear” with Ontfront

GENTLEMEN, START YOUR ENGINES! If you love racing, OntFront’s “Shift Gear” must hit that racing bug.

Beautiful black, stream-lined cars and lots of horsepower was the inspiration for OntFront’s fifth collection, ‘“Shift Gear”.

“I’ve always had a love for the aesthetics of car design. Spyker, Lamborghini …The aerodynamic lines and forms of fast cars are the basis for this collection of OntFront.” Head Designer, Liza Koifman

The 68-piece collection, which consists of jackets, t-shirts, jeans, shirts, and unique blazers, is primarily made with dark colours like asphalt and car tire black, with highlights in red and eggplant colour. The Italian and French imported materials are high in quality being both ‘water resistant’ and breathable.

Lookbook “Shift Gear”

Lookbook by Marnix Postma, Copyright OntFront.

Ontfront (Fall/Winter 2010-2011)
from JAN (JustAnotherNerd) on Vimeo.
Director - Tjeerd Braat
D.O.P. - Marnix Postma (www.marnixpostma.com)
Animation & Editing - Tjeerd Braat (tjeerd@justanothernerd.nl)
Track - Curtamos - Trouble (www.curtamos.com)
Sound FX - Christian Cardenas (www.sparkbeatz.com)
Models: Erasmus @ Ulla Models & Matthieu @ Name models

Text by Ajanaku & photo top center, Copyright OntFront.

Grigor Zaitzev—A Sunbeam of His Father’s Glory

Another Russian designer at the recent edition of Russia Fashion Week was Grigor Zaitsev—son of the most famous of all Russian designers, Slava Zaitsev!

Sketching from an early age, Grigor completed his studies in 1983 and immediately joined his father’s Fashion House.

There, Grigor designed many costumes for theatre, cinema, and the circus, as well as famous musicians. Clearly, Grigor and his designs are deeply influenced by the Russian Rock Revolution of the 1980’s.

Not only rejoicing with but also instrumental in the fall of the Soviet Regime, Grigor now welcomes a new generation of artistic designers, despite the current arduous times.

Photo top left 2010 s/s collection, Courtesy & Copyright Russian Fashion Week.
Photo bottom center Grigor Zaitsev, Courtesy & Copyright Grigor Zaitsev.

From Congo to Russia—Stella Ndombi

Stella Ndombi is an acclaimed model in the Russian fashion industry.

She was born and raised in Brazzaville—the capital of the Republic of Congo—in a family of French diplomats.

At the age of seven, Stella’s family moved to Paris and then to Moscow, which has since become her new home.

In Moscow, a Russian stylist and fashion designer known as “Alisher” discovered the exotic beauty of Stella and led her to fame as one of Russia’s Top 10 models.

Soon afterward, Stella became one of Russia’s Top fashion designers.

At the most recent edition of Russian Fashion Week, which was held in Moscow April 1-6, Stella presented “Boxer’s Second Skin”—her first joint collection with Alisher.

This 2010 autumn/winter collection resulted from the arena of martial arts with all of its adrenaline-arousing silks, leathers, and furs.

This winter, be a winner with Alisher! And be a champ with Stella Ndombi!



Photo & slideshow 2010 autumn/winter collection Copyright Stella Ndombi .

“Shift Gear” in Autumn/Winter 2010 by Ontfront

Racecars assembled at the starting line, motors revving up into a thunderous roar—it’s “Shift Gear” in gear with OntFront, men’s sidewalk-tailored street gear!

The flag goes down in a whoosh; the cars peel out in a screech, winding around the track—it’s January 30 at Amsterdam International Fashion Week.

Like a true carrozzeria (‘coachbuilder’), Ontfront has assembled for autumn/winter 2010 a collection of 68 pieces, all inspired by the world of Italian car racing—streamlined, aerodynamic, and trophy-garnering models!

If you are living the fast life, travelling, racing, and going out—Ontfront is the bad-boy gentleman label for you!



Photos by Peter Stigter, 2010 a/w collection, Copyright OntFront.

How CHICKENSHIT can Save Your Nossse

Save Your Nossse was established last year in St. Petersburg, Russia, by one of the designers of CHICKENSHIT.

In a similar way to the label from the chicken coop, Save Your Nossse collaborates with famous fashion photographers from around the world in the design and production of handkerchiefs.

The first collection of handkerchiefs were produced in partnership with the renowned Swedish photographer, Knotan, and was presented in Stockholm at his exhibition entitled MeMeMe.



Photo & slideshow Copyright Save Your Nossse.

CHICKENSHIT: a New Artistic Medium

Although chicken shit dates back as far as the bird itself, CHICKEN-SHIT as a label was born in 2006.

Strange in name and aggressive in mood—or should I say, aggressive in name and strange in mood—whichever way, CHICKENSHIT specializes in t-shirts that are dedicated to famous fashion designers.

Based in St. Petersburg, Russia, CHICKENSHIT specializes in all areas of art and design, including exhibitions, installations, performances, and parties.

The first collection of clothing was launched in 2008, at which time CHICKENSHIT featured “Favorite Scandinavian Photographers,” such as Knotan—one of the most famous in Sweden—presenting 52 of his photos, as well as a series of designs for clothing.

Directed by two brothers, Alexander and Slava, CHICKENSHIT has recently entered into collaboration with Diana Luganski of Finland.

Finally, CHICKENSHIT is art!



Photo White No. Collection by CHICKENSHIT.
Slideshow Copyright CHICKENSHIT.

“Tonight is the Knight” with Ontrfont

On the last day of Amsterdam International Fashion Week (July 22-26), designer Liza Koifman and creative director Tomas Overtoom of Ontfront heralded the advent of their 2010 spring/summer collection with “Tonight is the Knight.”

Gracefully mounted on a decorated destrier—the Medieval ‘great horse’—a consort of elegant sorts sounded the trumpet and led the armored cavalry into chic battle array.

Knight upon knight clad in shining armor proceeded to clank down the runway, plundering the hearts of besieged onlookers and pillaging the applause that resounded in the pavilion.

The tournament climaxed in a flanking arrangement of stylistic fashion as the final knight, donning hand gauntlets and shoulder pauldrons, removed the cumbersome helm from his head and bowed in chivalrous valor.

“Tonight is the Knight” is designed to catapult the bold sophistication of the valiant medieval knight into comfortable gallantry for the modern-day street cavalier.

Like the black and white chess knights adorning the collection, “Tonight is the Knight” will harness you with the graceful attire to lay siege to any imposing bulwark in your life.



Photo 2010 s/s collection “Tonight is the Knight” Copyright Peter Stigter.
Slideshow 2010 s/s collection “Tonight is the Knight” Copyright Peter Stigter.

Max Kibardin & "Who Is On Next"

I recently posted an article about Who Is On Next, a competition created and organized by Alta Roma—Rome’s fashion week—and collaborated by Vogue Italia.

As one of the seven finalists of the competition, shoewear designer Max Kibardin will present his 2010 s/s collection for the first time at the menswear fashion show in Florence, Italy, called Pitti Uomo.

Born 1976 in Siberia, Max Kibardin grew up in a family of shoemakers, going on to study architecture in Moscow where he nurtured a keen sensibility to structure and design, which he has tempered with elegance in each of his designs.

After a short stint in Paris, Max ventured to Milan where he not only worked with prominent names in the footwear industry but also launched his own collections of shoes and bags. Now, Max works as creative director of Lornezo Banfi and consultant to Furla Footwear.

Max derives great satisfaction knowing that his collections have caught the attention of major buyers from around the world. Max reports that even Britney Spears has sported a pair of his creations during her Circus Tour in the US.

All the best to you, Max!



Slideshow 2010 s/s collection Copyright Max Kibardin.

The Energetically Charged Bags & Accessories of Maxim Sharov

Maxim Sharov was born and raised in Zheleznodorozhny, a city located 21 km outside of Moscow, where he now resides. Zheleznodorozhny—which translates as ‘railway’—was founded in 1861 as a settlement that served the train station of Obiralovka. The settlement gained its fame by Leo Tolstoy as the place of death for the main character in Anna Karenina.

I had the privilege of interviewing this Russian designer of men's accessories last week. Luckily for me, Russian language and literature was my major in university—even reading Anna Karenina in the original!—so I was able to conduct the interview in Maxim’s native language and feel his passion in designing bags for men.

When growing up in Zheleznodorozhny, what was it that influenced you to become a designer?
What influenced my decision to become a designer was that, for some time in my childhood, I was a punker and, afterwards, a hippy. Then, it came to me to make various accessories that would correspond to the ways of such subcultures.

Where did you go to school?
I completed my studies at the Faculty of Applied Art of the Moscow State Textile University ‘A.N. Kosygin’. Although I entered as a major in shoe wear, in the course of my studies I chose to major as a designer of bags, receiving my degree in the year 2000.

So when did you first start designing bags?
I started designing 18 years ago, when I was only 15 years old.

And what do you find inspires you when you design?
I’m not inspired by the mere purpose of fashion or style but rather by things that are created for practical purposes, such as the elements of workers’ clothes or military ammunition. I like things that can be used for a long time, not looking to the variability of fashion but rather to things that have confirmed their usefulness.

Could you give a percentage for the amount of practicality vs. style?
90% practicality, 10% style.

How do you perceive life, and do you express this perception in your accessories?
I read that things, as well as everything around us, have energy and this energy largely depends on how the things were made and the emotions that were felt in making them. If something is created by one person who conceived the idea, then this thing is energetically more powerful than something that was made in a manufacturing line where one person performs only one operation and then passes it to another.

You’ve made a very strong case for the artisan! So, with what types of materials do you like to work?
Yes, in general, I only work with leather. For this reason, I love to buy leather not only of the best quality but also leather with defects, scratches, holes, and impressions that appear naturally.

I’m always at your disposal to answer more questions with great pleasure. Спасибо!



Slide show Copyright by Maxim Sharov.

Slava Zaitsev and the Glory of Russia Fashion Week

Since today marks the final day of Russian Fashion Week’s 18th season, I would like to pay tribute to Russia’s most honored designer, Vyacheslav Zaitsev.

Better known as Slava, Vyacheslav opened the event on March 28th, dedicating his a/w 2009 collection to the 100th anniversary of the Ballets Russes ('the Russian Ballets')—an itinerant ballet company that performed under director Sergey Dyagilev between 1909-1929.

With composers like Stravinsky and dancers like Tamara Kasarvina and Serge Lifar, the Ballets Russes conquered Paris and revolutionized the art of performative dance.

Slava Zaitsev was born on 2 March 1938 in the city of Ivanovo—traditionally called the textile capital of Russia, which was founded in 1561 as a flax-processing village. His father, however, was labeled a traitor to the Motherland and disappeared in a camp under one of Stalin’s waves of repression.

Zaitsev, thus, was denied every opportunity and right to a higher education until 1952 when he was permitted to enter the Faculty of Applied Arts at the University of Chemistry and Technology in Ivanovo.

Although recognized abroad as the “Red Dior,” Slava was not always lauded by the Soviet authorities as he directed the production of women's wear for retail stores in Moscow and the surrounding areas.

But his perseverance finally overcame all opposition in 1982 when he launched Dom Modi Vycheslav Zaitsev, the first couturier in the Soviet Union that the government permitted to own a personal label!

As poet, writer, artist, and stylist, Slava Zaitsev refused to relinquish his passion, designing his way up to perestroika and through glasnost, and now he is recognized as the most distinguished designer of Russia.

Vycheslav Zaitsev has truly lived up to the meaning of his name—Slava—the Russian word for ‘glory’!

Photo upper left Tamara Kasarvina and Serge Lifar, Public Domain Wikipedia.
Bottom photo by Slava Zaitsev Moscow Fashion House, GFDL Copyleft Wikipedia.

Dmitry Loginov's Arsenicum Challenges Russian Fashion Week

As Russian Fashion Week unfolds, I would like to present Dmitry Loginov, another accomplished designer from Krasnoyarsk—the Russian city whose history can rival any Western cowboy!

After graduating from the Technological College of Krasnoyarsk, Dmitry wasted no time in saddling up his design career, first, as a patternmaker for local atelier and, then, as a stylist at L’Officiel. He also braved his own studio; that is, until he won a regional young designer competition.

With the right dose of recognition, Dmitry trotted off to Moscow where he landed the position of fashion editor at OM. There, he also founded Arsenicum—a brand that immediately drew the attention of the press. Nominated best Russian designer by Astra and designer of the year by GQ and World Fashion TV, Dmitry has also headed up other menswear lines like Enton and Donatto.

Arsenicum is a homeopathic remedy for anxiety and fear that may be caused by an underlying insecurity and oversensitivity. Interestingly, the Greco-Latin origin of the term signifies ‘masculinity’! If you are a male inhabitant of the mega city, then Arsenicum is the right choice for you!

Arsenicum suetum provocat! Get used to the Arsenicum challenge!



Slide show and photo 2009 s/s collection, Copyright by Arsenicum.

Hayam Hanukaev Sets Russian Fashion Week Free

After having worked 4 years in the Far East, I decided to venture into Eastern Europe in September of 1990 and, thus, boarded the Trans-Siberian Railway in Beijing. For the next 10 days, I found myself in a sleeper with 2 German tourists, peering through a steamed up window at the vast landscape of the Siberian steppe.

With each passing day, the thick forests of birch trees deepened their hues as winter set in. Every so many hours, the train would come to a screeching halt, at which time women from the local villages charged the train to sell their jars of pickled vegetables to the passengers who were hanging out the windows. Eventually we arrived at an important junction—Krasnoyarsk—the 3rd major city of Siberia.

Krasnoyarsk was founded as a border fort in 1628 by the Cossacks, who named it after the Turkic words for ‘Red Ore’. During the Russian Empire, the village was the destination of deported exiles, later becoming a major city of the Gulag system under Stalin. By the time I passed through, Krasnoyarsk had grown into an industrial city and prominent educational center.

Five years later, a young man by the name of Hayam Hanukaev entered the Krasnoyarsk Art School, going on to study at the Krasnoyarsk Technical College. In 2004, he too made his way to Moscow, where he worked as a costume designer for various film production companies. Last year, he founded the design studio hAYAMhANUKAEV.

The theme of his s/s 2009 collection, which he presented at the previous Russian Fashion Week, was "Freedom."

Photos 2009 s/s collection Copyright by hAYYAMhANUKAEV.

It’s "Pure Joy" at Russian Fashion Week

Pure Joy Fashion is a brand-new brand of menswear that recently appeared on the scene of Russian cities, all due to the powerful unity of three individuals’ one-mindedness: designer Yevgeny Nikitin and business partners Masha Korobkevich and Nastastye Gashkhauz. Three creative minds expressed in three words:

Pure—to be sincere and honest with the world around you.

Joy—to rejoice in life and all its facets.

Fashion—to translate individuality through clothing.

The 2009 spring/summer collection of Pure Joy Fashion draws its inspiration from the religious image of Saint Sebastian, Roman praetorian and early church martyr (c. 288). The youth, strength, beauty, and spirituality of this man are all expressed in this collection, St. Sebastian Day.

Addressed to young energetic men who do not separate career and healthy self-affirmation from spiritual growth and emotional demeanor, Pure Joy Fashion is a new way to find yourself and express yourself in the chaos of the modern metropolis!

Slide show 2009 s/s collection Copyright by Pure Joy Fashion.

Photo top right St. Sebastian by Il Sodoma Copyright Wikipedia public domain.

Russian Fashion Week & Oleg Biryukov's Mosaic of Talent

Today Russian Fashion Week opened the doors at the Congress Center in Moscow, where numerous Russian and foreign designers will be presenting their 2009 a/w collections throughout the next week. One of the exhibiting menswear designers is Oleg Biryukov, who drew inspiration for his collection from the art and dress of the Byzantine Empire.

Mostly everyone knows something about ancient Rome, the center of the Roman Empire. But how often do you watch a movie or read a novel on Byzantium, the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire? Eventually Byzantium came to be called Constantinople—the New Rome—and later, Istanbul!

What we term the Byzantine Empire merely refers to the Medieval Roman Empire that continued in the East as an economic power, trading heavily in textiles! What we must bear in mind, however, was that Byzantium was a Greek speaking empire of Greek culture. Although Byzantine dress was considered conservative, the Byzantines adored bright colors and elaborate patterns of embroidered imagery, worn primarily by the upper classes.

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Moscow claimed succession to the legacy of the Eastern Roman Empire, becoming the Third Rome—hence the title of “Tsar,” which mutated from ‘Cesar’! Hinting to the painted glass and colored enamels in the Byzantine mosaics, Oleg Biryukov continues the legacy at Russian Fashion Week!

Piecing emerald and purple on the backdrop of blue and gold, Oleg enforces the strict norms and canons of Byzantine iconography, which depicts the physical world as a mere reflection of heavenly realities. Instead of hiding behind pretty words or embellished ideas, Oleg exemplifies the truth that modesty can beautify!

Photos Copyright by Oleg B!ryukov.

Jazzy "Midnight Sessions" by OntFront

Addictive for its unusual beats and rhythmic surprises, Jazz originated at the dawn of the 20th century in cities from New Orleans to Chicago and was soon popularized through mediums like the phonograph record, the radio, and the advent of sound movies. The music genre hit a crescendo in the Roaring Twenties, spawning numerous subgenres thereafter like big band swing, Dixieland, bebop, and hip hop.

The 1920’s have been syncopated as the Age of Jazz, when a minority’s melodic subculture harmonized with the chords of the majority's mainstream. Jazz soon danced right out of its own shoes and into social movements, propelling women’s liberation and the entire fashion industry. Imagine swinging to the Charleston in Victorian clothes!

Earlier jazz musicians performed behind the closed doors of dark, smokey brothels, speakeasies, and bars in New Orleans' red light district, donning sport clothes, high waisted jackets with belts, and straight legged trousers that were cuffed high enough to show the socks! Within this underground scene of sweaty jazz, Midnight Sessions were born, mixing it up with trench coats, baseball jackets, hooded sweaters, blazers, and double breasted vests!

Nostalgic as the blues, yet futuristic as urban rap, Midnight Sessions was inspired by musicians like Sonny Rollins, Jelly Roll, Count Basie, Tommy Flanagan, and Benny Carter for their creative chord progressions, catchy rebellion, and perfect tailored clothing.

OntFront’s claim to fame lies in the tune of sidewalk tailoring, which improvises classic suit craftsmanship with the ad-lib finesse of the streets. So turn off my play list below, sit back, and have a sip of whiskey with designer Liza Koifman as you listen to the syncopation of Midnight Sessions.

Slide show 2009 s/s Midnight Sessions Collection Copyright by OntFront.
Model: Jean-Paul.
Photography: Jochem Sanders.

OntFront Goes Emperialistic with Nicholas II

What do Tsar Nicholas II and 26-year old designer Liza Koifman have in common? St. Petersburg and OntFront’s new 2009 f/w collection entitled Emperialistic.

Little Nicky was son of the stunning Princess of Denmark, Maria Fyodorovna, and a tall intimidating father, Alexander Alexandrovich Romanov. Although shorter than Alexander, Nicholas II grew into a regal figure with deep blue eyes and a thick brown beard with golden highlights.

One of the most educated European monarchs of his time, Nicholas II was raised somewhat isolated from his intellectual and artistic peers, which would later seal his fate. But he adored music, especially Wagner's Tristan and Isolde, and most of all Nicholas loved his country. Although he was disposed by the Bolsheviks in 1917, becoming Russia's last Tsarevich, Nicholas was not the nation's last aristocrat!

Some of Nicholas' legacies include his impeccable dress and sumptuous uniforms. In 1903, Nicholas II and his wife hosted a lavish dress ball for Russia's aristocracy. They commissioned the nation's most illustrious tailors, such as the directors of imperial theaters and the Hermitage, who designed national 17th-century costumes, sparking a revival in traditional Russian dress.

Now, Liza Koifman continues the legacy of Nicholas II by inviting today's rising "aristocracy of the streets" to OntFront's sophisticated androgynous dress ball of renewed Russian dress! Employing the most exclusive fabrics, Liza adorns these urban uniforms with the armorial bearings of the Russian imperial family to outfit you like an modern aristocrat!



Slide show a/w 2009 Emperialistic Collection Copyright by OntFront.
Photo top right Nicholas II Copyright Wikipedia public domain.

OntFront's Eruption: Liza Koifman

Liza Koifman was born 1982 in Petrapavlovsk—a city that sits high on a hill, surrounded by numerous volcanoes and located in the far eastern region of Russia’s Pacific coast.

A year after her birth, Liza's family relocated to Leningrad, modern-day Saint Petersburg, where she was raised until the age of 9. Eventually Liza had lost contact with her father, a Soviet Jew, who decided to make aliyah, migrating to Israel in escape of repression.

Soon after the collapse of the Soviet Union, Liza and her mother moved to the Netherlands, where she has lived since since 1991, studying Costume Design at the National Film Academy in Amsterdam. Although Liza began designing costumes for film and video productions after graduation, she could not contain the urge for individual creative expression, which was erupting within her.

Meanwhile in 2005, DJ and entrepreneur Tomas Overtoom was making local tremors with his own ground-shaking creativity, hosting a masked hip hop event called OntFront—Don’t Put up a Front!—which aimed at promoting fresh talent like artists, musicians, and fashion designers. Liza wasted no time in signing up!

Together, Tomas and Liza's passion for style triggered an earthquake: a new line of menswear that would express the stylishness and self-rule of their generation’s intelligent but slightly rebellious men.

Reflecting the demographic nature and multi-cultural allure of Amsterdam, Tomas and Liza have shaken the city with the finest men from all ethnic backgrounds who model their collections: Russians, Indonesians, Chinese, Africans, Italians, and more.

What inspires Liza's creations is strength of character; namely, real icons—men who impact their generation! She deviates from the modern trends of aesthetic arguments that search for beauty in unpleasant objects and result in misshaped designs.

Rather, Liza’s canvas is the male human body: “Men are interesting creatures,” she remarks. “Making clothes for them gives me an opportunity to study these creatures and find out their interests. Every day I try to crack the secret code. I think I'm getting there!”

Liza’s designs for men with the aim of empowering them to feel sharp and confident enough to stand out in the crowd. Liza insists that modern men are ready for innovation. “As a woman, I feel spoiled by having so many choices when I'm shopping. Men deserve the same treatment.”

When Liza and Tomas sent the two posted photos, he wrote, They have "never been published, so you are the first to see them."

What an honor for Men's Fashions by Francesco and our readers!

Dank u, Tomas! Kомплименты, Liza!

Photos 2009 a/w collection copyright OntFront.
Photography: Marnix Postma
Model: Yukee @ TRCP
Hair and Makeup: Chantal Garden @ Tommy'z Toko

(Top right Liza Koifman photo by Dennis.)