“Fågeln” by Orschel-Read

For autumn/winter 2010, Stefán Orschel-Read has prepared a collection entitled “Fågeln,” which means ‘birds’ in Swedish.

Besides female birds, Stefán drew his inspiration from several sources.

First, he looked to the ceiling murals within the Storkyrkan (‘the Great Church’), which, built in 1279, is the cathedral located next to the Royal Palace in Stockholm, Sweden.

Secondly, Stefán designed the collection with an eye to William Morris (1834–1896), English textile designer who was influenced by medieval tapestry and embroideries, much based on nature.

Orschel-Read was launched in 2008, after Stefán had graduated from Central Saint Martin’s with honors in Menswear.

Stefán also received a Master’s degree from the Royal College of Art.



Photo & slideshow 2010 autumn/winter collection Copyright Orschel-Read.

Spring Color Trends & a Happy Easter!

Today is Easter Sunday when millions around the world are celebrating the holiday in one way or another. Regardless of whether we believe in the significance or not, in the northern hemisphere spring is here—a time in which all of Nature seems to come back to life in wonderful Technicolor!

This morning when I awoke, I began to think of the spring color palette, not at any recent fashion week but rather on Nature’s runway! Meanwhile, since it is a religious holiday for so some many countries, I also began reflecting on how, throughout history, religion has dictated the dress codes of followers.

At times, the dress code has been dark, drab, and dreary as with the old-time Pentecostals. At other times, the garb has been vibrant and colorful as with Buddhist priests or Catholic cardinals.

I remember the first time I took a ride to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, where a religious group by the name of the Amish live. Everyone was dressed plainly in muted colors, except for the men of some progressive sects, who wore different colored shirts.

The Amish trace their beginnings back to 1693 in Switzerland, migrating to Pennsylvania in the 18th century. Dress to the Amish is a serious issue as it symbolizes their devotion. Some leaders allow flashier colors, as long as they are found in nature.

I pondered on this thought today: How would men dress if they allowed Nature to determine their color palette and styles? So, I grabbed my camera and took a walk, snapping away.

I learned a lesson: to be like Nature! Be bold, be happy, and be colorful!

Happy Easter & Happy Spring!

Photos Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.

2010 Autumn/Winter: “uncommon creatures”

Recently I came across a new line of menswear out of Denmark. I thought the best way to introduce you to the label, uncommon creatures, was for the designers to present themselves in their own words:

“uncommon creatures AW 10 is the debut fashion collection created by Copenhagen-based duo Christina Højris Ottosen and Jens Kold-Christensen.

‘The inspiration to the AW10 collection occurred on a very random Monday evening. I’m sitting in the subway heading for Brooklyn, when a young orthodox Jew enters the train and sits down right in front of me. I can’t help but stare at his snake curls and his huge black hat. He obviously noticed my starring and responds with a nod and a ”Yeah, I know.” I immediately start playing with the possibility of creating a fashion collection inspired by orthodox Jewish style. And here we are.’ (Jens Kold-Christensen)

The silhouette of uncommon creatures is avant-garde and raw while keeping a high degree of simplicity.

The AW10 collection sends the wearer on an anachronistic journey where essential aesthetic elements of various Judaistic societies are used as a central theme. This is visualised and expressed both through simple styles, the recognisable hats, and lengths but also through knitwear depicting orthodox Jews and east orthodox crosses. All styles are created in a dark and monochrome colour scheme.

In terms of CSR, uncommon creatures does not use organic fabrics, neither do we pay Indian child labourers an extra cent a week. Instead, uncommon creatures has chosen to use the already existing Danish textile industry by using Danish produce, importers and manufacturers, so as not to outsource the entire production of the collection.”



Photo, slideshow & text Copyright uncommon creatures.

Medeival Monks & Motorbikes at Saint Augustine Academy

Saint Augustine Academy was birthed within Sydney’s alternative music scene, Indie Rock 'n' Roll and all its subcultures, incorporating into the label the hardness of Punk, the sleekness of Mods, the darkness of Goths, and the eccentricities of New Romantics.

Accordingly, the 2009 a/w collection draws its inspiration from an English hymn of 1504 entitled the Corpus Christi Carol, which was reinterpreted by singer and songwriter Jeff Buckley (1966-1997), who wrote:

The "Carol" is a fairytale about a falcon who takes the beloved of the singer to an orchard. The singer goes looking for her and arrives at a chamber where his beloved lies next to a bleeding knight and a tomb with Christ's body in it.

Designer and creative director at Saint Augustine Academy, Alvin Manalo, unveils his underlying motivation behind the collection as being “the three M’s—Medieval Royalty, Monks, and Motorbikes.”

Alvin tastefully displays the ornamental details of royal robes and monastic gowns in Medieval times on the rugged and dusty backdrop of Texan motorcycle culture where “bikers reign supreme.”

So, now, turn off the playlist below, sit back, and listen to the Corpus Christi Carol as Saint Augustine Academy rides you through the timeless corridors of abbeys and palaces where soft dukes and tough bikers mingle in the latest drapings with hoods and leather jackets!



Photo 2009 a/w collection Copyright Saint Augustine Academy.
Slide show 2009 a/w collection Copyright Saint Augustine Academy.

It’s "Pure Joy" at Russian Fashion Week

Pure Joy Fashion is a brand-new brand of menswear that recently appeared on the scene of Russian cities, all due to the powerful unity of three individuals’ one-mindedness: designer Yevgeny Nikitin and business partners Masha Korobkevich and Nastastye Gashkhauz. Three creative minds expressed in three words:

Pure—to be sincere and honest with the world around you.

Joy—to rejoice in life and all its facets.

Fashion—to translate individuality through clothing.

The 2009 spring/summer collection of Pure Joy Fashion draws its inspiration from the religious image of Saint Sebastian, Roman praetorian and early church martyr (c. 288). The youth, strength, beauty, and spirituality of this man are all expressed in this collection, St. Sebastian Day.

Addressed to young energetic men who do not separate career and healthy self-affirmation from spiritual growth and emotional demeanor, Pure Joy Fashion is a new way to find yourself and express yourself in the chaos of the modern metropolis!

Slide show 2009 s/s collection Copyright by Pure Joy Fashion.

Photo top right St. Sebastian by Il Sodoma Copyright Wikipedia public domain.

Russian Fashion Week & Oleg Biryukov's Mosaic of Talent

Today Russian Fashion Week opened the doors at the Congress Center in Moscow, where numerous Russian and foreign designers will be presenting their 2009 a/w collections throughout the next week. One of the exhibiting menswear designers is Oleg Biryukov, who drew inspiration for his collection from the art and dress of the Byzantine Empire.

Mostly everyone knows something about ancient Rome, the center of the Roman Empire. But how often do you watch a movie or read a novel on Byzantium, the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire? Eventually Byzantium came to be called Constantinople—the New Rome—and later, Istanbul!

What we term the Byzantine Empire merely refers to the Medieval Roman Empire that continued in the East as an economic power, trading heavily in textiles! What we must bear in mind, however, was that Byzantium was a Greek speaking empire of Greek culture. Although Byzantine dress was considered conservative, the Byzantines adored bright colors and elaborate patterns of embroidered imagery, worn primarily by the upper classes.

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Moscow claimed succession to the legacy of the Eastern Roman Empire, becoming the Third Rome—hence the title of “Tsar,” which mutated from ‘Cesar’! Hinting to the painted glass and colored enamels in the Byzantine mosaics, Oleg Biryukov continues the legacy at Russian Fashion Week!

Piecing emerald and purple on the backdrop of blue and gold, Oleg enforces the strict norms and canons of Byzantine iconography, which depicts the physical world as a mere reflection of heavenly realities. Instead of hiding behind pretty words or embellished ideas, Oleg exemplifies the truth that modesty can beautify!

Photos Copyright by Oleg B!ryukov.