Emore'J Couture: DC's John Galliano?!

Emore’J Couture sure knows how to have a good time and he really knows how to put on a show!

There may be a lot of attitude coming down the runways nowadays, but there’s no attitude whatsoever with this 23-year-old DC designer.

When I sat down to interview Emore’J Couture after the Menswear Collection Show at DC Fashion Week, I had a heart-to-heart talk with a man of deep passion and intense feeling.

Let’s continue to explore the depth of talent and creativity in this young DC designer as he speaks about his personal experiences in the nation’s capital and beyond.

How long have you been showing at the DC Fashion Week?
I have been showing at DC fashion week since I was 17 Years Old. I was actually Ean Williams first “Youngest Designer” of DC Fashion Week.

What is your opinion about DC Fashion Week?
I truly appreciate DC Fashion Week for the services that it provides to let me express myself with no restrictions. As a young student, I never had that so I had to create my own events. I’m truly happy that DC Fashion Week has played an influence in the way I conduct and go about business!

How would you describe the fashion scene in DC?
I would describe the fashion scene for men in DC as openly creative. Men have the option to try so many looks and styles of clothing that is amazing. I enjoy the risk that I see men starting to take.

It’s not common to hear DC described this way…
I think I am looking at it from an urban perspective, and that’s coming from the Black community, because at first it wasn’t like that. In the Black community, it was always hoodies, shirts, and big clothing—oversized clothing—men hiding their bodies.

What do you see happening?
Now in the Black communities, it has definitely changed because men are bolder. The clothing is fitting a little sleeker. They’re going more toward a European type of fit with the clothing, which is excellent. So you’re seeing men playing with colors. You’re seeing the men with their pants more fitted than before and experimenting with dress shoes rather than athletic apparel. So that’s the change that I’m coming from.

How does the DC Black community stand up against LA?
I feel that LA is extremely laid back and is not as fashion forward as DC. I currently reside in DC; however, I frequent LA often conducting business in Fashion Media. I feel that, compared to LA, DC is more cutting edge, very daring, which is a good thing. It’s great to see people trying new looks when it comes down to fashion and being themselves.

How does Emore’J Couture play a role in the DC scene?
I play a role in this scene, because I’m always on a whole other level when it comes to men’s fashion. I normalize what may seem daring, horrific, scandalous, and over the top.

How would you describe your experience as a Black designer?
I think it has been bittersweet. If you may see my work, it is very over the top: my work has a lot of expression and emotion. Sometimes living in the US, it can go over their heads because they don’t get it, they understand it. They don’t look into it deeper—they don’t research.

Do you feel that you would be more accepted elsewhere?
I’ve been told that a lot of people overseas would definitely appreciate my work because they’re more into researching the collection—looking deeper into it, looking at the symbolism that’s going on within my collection. I feel that, in America, they do love me and they appreciate my creativity. But at the same time, it kind of goes over their head because of the symbolism, the meaning, and the purposes.

What does the future hold for Emore’J Couture?
I am moving more into fashion entertainment, such as I have my own show on YouTube—Emore’J Couture TV. I do a lot of event hosting: I interview a lot of up-and-coming artists, designers, models, and producers; I cover a lot of events. So, I am moving more into fashion entertainment because I believe that is what I want to do. I love fashion design, but my heart is really in production as in creating events and creating a whole mood.

Any closing words for the readers around the world who may be aspiring designers?
It’s easy, just do it! I mean who cares, jump into it. Do it; if it’s wrong, do it again! If it’s not right, fix it up and just keep doing it and doing it and doing it. As you go on, if you are smart and wise, eventually it will get better. But there is no other advice than to do it!

For further reading, see my first exclusive interview with Emore’J Couture.



Photo top left, Copyright Shy Magazine.
Photos & slideshow Copyright DC Fashion Week.

Andrew Nowell, Striking the Right Balance

Andrew Nowell is probably one of the nicest guys that you can know! He is one of those fellows that make you feel at home, relaxed—you just want to kick your shoes off, sit back, and talk about whatever is on your mind.

Don’t misunderstand me, though. Andrew Nowell may be down to earth, but he is also intense in his feelings, pensive in thought, and very reflective with every spoken word.

After viewing his collection last week at the Menswear Collection Show at DC Fashion Week, I grabbed Andrew for a second interview. (Standing left in photo.)

Your profile reads that your design philosophy is rooted in the New York cultures of hip hop, R&B, and rock… So, how do you translate music into menswear?
By simply looking at the icons of each music genre, such as David Bowie, Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols, Kanye West, and even Michael Jackson and taking little elements. I then put my own spin on them, and this is what comes out on the runway. As you saw in my collection tonight, there were drop-crotch pants, which come from the hip hop influence of Kanye West…

Previously you stated that you design for men to feel sexy…. How do you define ‘sexy’?
Just being aware of your sensuality, your body, you ability to attract others—and with that, feeling confident. I think everyone wants to feel that way…and now it is changing for men. For the longest time, men were not allowed to feel sexy, because they equated it with being vulgar.

How do you bring sexiness into your designs?
What I do is try to focus on the cut of a man’s physique. Nowadays, men are going to the gym, not for health reasons but to look great on the beach or in a tank top: they want to feel sexy. So, that is who I am designing for.

Last week, you summed up your look as ‘modern’, ‘edgy’, ‘sexy’, and ‘restrained’… How do you combine ‘restraint’ with the other characteristics?
Well, there is a fine line between good design and costume, and what keeps it from going over to the costume is restraint—being able to pull back. Whereas some people go all out and do something that is totally eccentric; it looks great on stage, but not a lot of people can wear it. In my design process, I do take it to that point, but then I ask myself, “What can I do to make it a little more wearable, a little more believable, and not so far out into outer space?”

Tell me something about the collection tonight…
I just wanted to capture the essence of masculinity in all its different forms. For example, the fur coat with the leather pants is inspired by the illustrations of Tom of Finland; the fitted suits are a little bit of David Bowie, the sexy rocker. A lot of these influences played out on the runway this evening…even the military influence of the aviator.

What inspired the aviator look?
I was thinking a little of Amelia Earhart… I was looking at an old movie with the Red Barron, and I really got into the costumes, wondering what I could bring into my work, such as the goggles, the leggings, the boots... But there was a lot of mixing from different periods and influences, as well.

How do you define the Andrew Nowell kind of man?
The Andrew Nowell man is a confident man who feels good about himself and his body. He is knowledgeable of music, arts, and culture.

Is there a country that you have visited where the men’s fashion impressed you?
I would say Benidorm, Spain. The men wear what they want to wear, whatever color they like, because they are free-thinking people and not bogged down by what others think they should wear. I thought it was great to see that—such a freedom!

What do you do when you are not designing?
Go to the gym; eat gray boring food… (Chuckle)

Music?
I like lounge music; I love alternative rock… For example, Zero 7, Air, Nine Inch Nails, Stone Temple Pilots, Tool and Alice in Chains—I like to mix it up!

Favorite TV show?
My favorite TV show is Damages with Glenn Close—that’s the one I don’t miss.

Male icon…?
Harrison Ford… He is a man’s man without trying to be one. True masculinity—Indiana Jones, Patriot Games… Even when I was in college, I kind of dressed like him… (Laughter)

As you can see, Andrew is a man of quality and hard work, which are vividly reflected in his collections!

Andrew Nowell—the designer that knows how to strike the right balance every time!



Photos & slideshow Copyright DC Fashion Week.

Photo top left Andrew Nowell and Emore'J Couture, Copyright Shy Magazine.

Stella Bonds at DC Fashion Week

Tomorrow is the big day for menswear at the DC Fashion Week in Washington DC. I am eager to meet Stella Bonds, who will be showing at the Menswear Collection Show in the evening.

Prior to the event, I was able to interview Stella, who skillfully unifies old world craftsmanship and elegance with new world style and sensibilities:

Where are you from originally?
I was born in Bogotà, Colombia, and when I was 6 months old my mother died; so I was raised by my grandmother and my aunts. Actually, the first aunt, “Tia Sofia,” who took care of me as a baby just passed away last week. A very sad moment for me…very sad.

Where are you currently residing?
I live in Alexandria, Virginia. I am a city person, but I like a little of quietness; so Alexandria offers that—plus, it is very close to DC.

Tell me something about your background…
My background is in graphic design and, since I was little, I was the kid doing the drawings for the sisters at my school—I studied with nuns…

How did you go from drawing to graphic designs?
I always liked to draw, but I never thought I would be making clothes until a stranger—now a good friend—approached me and asked me if I wanted to represent his Italian shoes men’s line, because he liked the way I dressed… I told him I did not know anything about shoes but I would try.

And where did that lead?
So I did, and I went to Las Vegas. While I was there I met the designer Ron Segal—shoe designer for many players in the NBA. He liked my look, as well, and he asked me if I would like to learn shoe designing and I said “yes.” He sponsored me to go to Spain and while I was there, I fell in love with the men’s shirts, so I learned about the basics of cutting a shirt. I came back to USA; I started to sew shirts; and one thing followed the other. I did finish my training as a shoe designer, as well.

What is your objective in designing for men in the US?
I think men in USA are too shy to show their bodies, so I want to make clothes that emphasis their bodies. We all talk about curves and we think immediately of women…well, let’s talk about lines and curves and that would be the men’s body, which is completely beautiful.

How do you achieve this specifically?
I also think that men need to be a little more aware of what they wear, so I offer simple but well-sewn pieces with details that make them look casual and sexy but not tacky. I do not like big t-shirts or shirts cut straight. It is a terrible look because it blocks any shape and, if the man is a little heavy, it looks even heavier.

What would you consider your main inspiration?
A men’s body is what inspires me. I think if a piece is very well put together, he can wear roses and look good. I like all the extremes.

Do you adhere to a particular approach?
Yes. I do make clothes that can be very simple as it is in this collection but with something edgy. I like color in men, so most of my pieces will have color. I love different prints.

Sum up for me the Stella Bond look.
Wearable couture.

How does the fashion scene strike you in DC?
Very quiet. A little boring for me; that is the reason why I will like to change that image, but I go slowly so people don’t get afraid.

For example?
By putting more color and by being persistent in designs that can be simple but having some adventure when you were it.

How do you compare DC to Spain?
My personal experience is that, in DC, it seems like we forgot clothes are a way to express and that fashion could be the reflection of you as a persona. Many of the men I relate with here would never go for a beauty treatment, for example, and then shopping for new thigh pants. In Barcelona, men are aware of themselves. They have manicures and pedicures, and they do not mind mentioning it. They want to wear the latest pants and are not afraid to change styles.

How long have you been showing at the DC Fashion Week?
Three times.

What has your experience been here?
This is by far the only event in DC that is well organized and it gives the opportunity to designers to show their collections. I wish it will be individual shows for each designer but that is a long shot.

Have a look at Stella’s runway collection: Stella Bonds Knows Male Lines & Male Curves!



Photos & slideshow Copyright Stella Bonds.

Andrew Nowell at DC Fashion Week

Tomorrow in the nation’s capital, the Menswear Collection Show kicks off at DC Fashion Week! I have already had the privilege of interviewing menswear designer, Andrew Nowell, who has been attending the event for the past 4 years.

I am very pleased to know you! Would you mind telling me a bit of where you are from?
I was born in New York City and raised in the Bronx, not far from the neighborhood where Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren grew up. I attended the High School of Art and Design in Manhattan where I took a strong interest in Fashion Illustration. In my senior year, I decided to apply to the Fashion Institute of Technology where I majored in Menswear Design. I would later find out that Calvin Klein attended both the High School of Art and Design and Fashion Institute. My mother is very religious and that, in some ways, shaped my design philosophy.

Do you still live in New York?
I live in Washington DC.

What brought you to DC?
I relocated here shortly after my discharge from the Navy.

When did you join the Navy, and how was that experience?
I joined the Navy after I graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. I served for close to 9 years on two aircraft carriers. I’ve traveled across the Mediterranean, visiting France, Spain, Israel, Turkey, Greece, Saudi Arabia and Egypt. I would have my sewing machine with me on the ship and always managed to churn out something to wear at each port of call.

When did you develop an interest in designing?
My last year in High School. At that time there wasn’t a lot of interest in menswear; it was very boring. I saw that as a challenge, being able to do something exciting in menswear with all its constraints.

Was there a particular event that sparked the desire?
My family was poor and I wasn’t able to afford the clothes that the cool kids at school wore. My Aunt surprised me with a sewing machine one day and I started making clothing for myself. I was fascinated with the idea of being able to bring a sketch/design into being, through fabric and a needle.

What inspires you as a designer?
I’m inspired by the hip-hop and rock cultures, Saville Row in London, the B-Boy on 125th street in Harlem and The illustrations of Tom of Finland.

Do you hold to any philosophy about menswear?
Yes, making a man feel as sexy as a woman would, without being vulgar.

How would you describe the Andrew Nowell look?
I would sum it up as modern, edgy, sexy, and restrained.

Tell me something about the fashion scene in DC from your point of view…
The fashion scene in Washington, D.C. is very conservative. It’s a town inhabited by lobbyists, lawyers, government workers and politician’s. So the dress for men here is very subdued and boring. I’m thankful for the Internet and my trips to New York for inspiration.

What role do you play in this scene?
I offer an alternative way of dressing for those who are tired of the Navy Blue Blazers and Khaki pants. With the arrival of the Obama’s, Washington DC is opening up to different ideas of dressing. Michelle Obama is now a fashion icon and many women in this area are beginning to follow her lead. I can only hope that it’ll influence the menswear sector in the city, as well.

How does your city compare to other cities?
There is no comparison. There isn’t much of a fashion scene here. Everything is anal and uptight, and it shows in the everyday dress of the people. New York City has a European sensibility; Miami is very colorful and ethnic; and San Francisco has an easy, laid-back hippie vibe. You can see the influence of the character of each city in the dress of its citizens.

How long have you been attending at the DC Fashion Week?
I’ve been showing at DC Fashion Week for the past four years.

What are your impressions thus far of the event?
I applaud Ean Williams for all his work in creating a Fashion week in Washington DC. It’s something that was sorely needed and his sparked something of a fashion movement here.

For further reading, go to Andrew Nowell, Striking the Right Balance .

Photos Copyright Andrew Nowell.

Ray Vincente at DC Fashion Week

In preparation for the Menswear Collection Show at DC Fashion Week this Saturday, I have had the privilege of interview Ray Brown of Ray Vincente.

Although Ray has been designing as a freelance designer for public and private individuals since 1983, he launched his Euro-urban menswear label, Ray Vincente Ecletic, in 2009.

An eclectic mix of Eastern, European, African, and American urban cultures, Ray Vincente Ecletic will soon be on the runways of DC!

It is a pleasure to meet you Ray! Tell me something about where you are from…
I was born and raised in the inner city of Trenton, NJ, the youngest of 5 siblings. Educated in the Trenton Public School system, brought up in the church and surrounded by talented parents and siblings in the areas of literature, art, and music—all had a part in shaping who I am today. I have a degree in Telecommunications and Fashion Merchandising. Currently I still am a resident of Trenton, NJ.

What is it like to live there now?
It is a great spot located between major centers of business and fashion, Philadelphia, DC, and NYC. Family is a major reason why I have remained as long as I have because family is very important to me.

When did you know you wanted to be a designer?
From what I’m told, I had the tendency to be a designer from a young age. I always wanted clothing to be ‘just so’ and had a habit of always doing something to my outfit that would make it different from the norm. As a matter of fact I’m told that the only time I ever had a temper tantrum was when I was not allowed to wear socks that matched my shirt!

Were there any specific factors that influenced your decision?
Wanting to express my own personality in the way I dress was a major influence. I always walked ‘a bit left of center’ and have always been an individualist. Other factors were the 3 women in my life: my two sisters and my mother. Each of them have a strong style of their own, but each is different; 1 eclectic and edgy, 1 European, and 1 Americana.

Where do you draw your inspiration?
I can be inspired by almost anything, people, nature, films, etc. I do have an affinity for eastern culture, due to the unique meanings behind how things are placed or ‘wrapped’ together into the ensemble. Also, I enjoy the grandeur of eastern royalty.

Do you hold to a particular philosophy that is clearly seen in your collections?
Style that is individual, comfortable, masculine, and wearable is always the goal of my collection.

How would you sum up the Ray Vincente look?
Eclectic! I am all about pulling individual pieces from various related or unrelated sources and incorporating them into a stylish ensemble that showcases the man who wears it in and understated, confident way.

Tell me about the fashion scene in your city?
Pretty general in nature. Not really a look and feel specific to the area.

How do you and your label play a role in that scene?
The role I want the label to play is to establish a look that is unique to this capital city of New Jersey.

How do you feel your city compares to other cities?
I’ve been fortunate enough to have visited Paris, Lucerne Switzerland, Rome, Venice, and Florence and have been to every major city within the US. They all have one thing in common: a look that is theirs! The city of Trenton does not have that yet, but my hope is that Ray Vincente will help it get one!

What is your impression of men’s fashion in DC?
Years ago, it seemed to be all about ‘strictly business’, but in recent years there has been a development of personal style, which is encouraging. True fashion compliments your everyday life and this where I believe Ray Vincente is such an asset to your wardrobe. It’s not about dressing ‘head to toe’ in Ray Vincente. That would make you a ‘clone’. It’s about incorporating pieces of Ray Vincente into your existing wardrobe and styling it to fit YOU.

How long have you been showing at the DC Fashion Week?
2010 will be my 3rd year

What is your impression of the DC Fashion Week?
I think Ean Williams and his organization are to be commended for their major strides within the fashion community. DC Fashion Week is more and more establishing itself as unique and influential in the fashion arena, and I hope it continues to build, not into a replica of NY Fashion Week but into it’s own unique event offering a different piece of the fashion puzzle.

For more reading on Ray, refer to The Multi-Cultural, Eclectic Ray of Ray Vincente.

Photos & slideshow Copyright Ray Vincente.