Andrew Nowell is probably one of the nicest guys that you can know! He is one of those fellows that make you feel at home, relaxed—you just want to kick your shoes off, sit back, and talk about whatever is on your mind.Don’t misunderstand me, though. Andrew Nowell may be down to earth, but he is also intense in his feelings, pensive in thought, and very reflective with every spoken word.
After viewing his collection last week at the Menswear Collection Show at DC Fashion Week, I grabbed Andrew for a second interview. (Standing left in photo.)
Your profile reads that your design philosophy is rooted in the New York cultures of hip hop, R&B, and rock… So, how do you translate music into menswear?
By simply looking at the icons of each music genre, such as David Bowie, Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols, Kanye West, and even Michael Jackson and taking little elements. I then put my own spin on them, and this is what comes out on the runway. As you saw in my collection tonight, there were drop-crotch pants, which come from the hip hop influence of Kanye West…
Previously you stated that you design for men to feel sexy…. How do you define ‘sexy’?
Just being aware of your sensuality, your body, you ability to attract others—and with that, feeling confident. I think everyone wants to feel that way…and now it is changing for men. For the longest time, men were not allowed to feel sexy, because they equated it with being vulgar.
How do you bring sexiness into your designs?
What I do is try to focus on the cut of a man’s physique. Nowadays, men are going to the gym, not for health reasons but to look great on the beach or in a tank top: they want to feel sexy. So, that is who I am designing for.
Last week, you summed up your look as ‘modern’, ‘edgy’, ‘sexy’, and ‘restrained’… How do you combine ‘restraint’ with the other characteristics?
Well, there is a fine line between good design and costume, and what keeps it from going over to the costume is restraint—being able to pull back. Whereas some people go all out and do something that is totally eccentric; it looks great on stage, but not a lot of people can wear it. In my design process, I do take it to that point, but then I ask myself, “What can I do to make it a little more wearable, a little more believable, and not so far out into outer space?”
Tell me something about the collection tonight…
I just wanted to capture the essence of masculinity in all its different forms. For example, the fur coat with the leather pants is inspired by the illustrations of Tom of Finland; the fitted suits are a little bit of David Bowie, the sexy rocker. A lot of these influences played out on the runway this evening…even the military influence of the aviator.
What inspired the aviator look?
I was thinking a little of Amelia Earhart… I was looking at an old movie with the Red Barron, and I really got into the costumes, wondering what I could bring into my work, such as the goggles, the leggings, the boots... But there was a lot of mixing from different periods and influences, as well.
How do you define the Andrew Nowell kind of man?
The Andrew Nowell man is a confident man who feels good about himself and his body. He is knowledgeable of music, arts, and culture.
Is there a country that you have visited where the men’s fashion impressed you?
I would say Benidorm, Spain. The men wear what they want to wear, whatever color they like, because they are free-thinking people and not bogged down by what others think they should wear. I thought it was great to see that—such a freedom!
What do you do when you are not designing?
Go to the gym; eat gray boring food… (Chuckle)
Music?
I like lounge music; I love alternative rock… For example, Zero 7, Air, Nine Inch Nails, Stone Temple Pilots, Tool and Alice in Chains—I like to mix it up!
By simply looking at the icons of each music genre, such as David Bowie, Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols, Kanye West, and even Michael Jackson and taking little elements. I then put my own spin on them, and this is what comes out on the runway. As you saw in my collection tonight, there were drop-crotch pants, which come from the hip hop influence of Kanye West…
Previously you stated that you design for men to feel sexy…. How do you define ‘sexy’?Just being aware of your sensuality, your body, you ability to attract others—and with that, feeling confident. I think everyone wants to feel that way…and now it is changing for men. For the longest time, men were not allowed to feel sexy, because they equated it with being vulgar.
How do you bring sexiness into your designs?
What I do is try to focus on the cut of a man’s physique. Nowadays, men are going to the gym, not for health reasons but to look great on the beach or in a tank top: they want to feel sexy. So, that is who I am designing for.
Last week, you summed up your look as ‘modern’, ‘edgy’, ‘sexy’, and ‘restrained’… How do you combine ‘restraint’ with the other characteristics?
Well, there is a fine line between good design and costume, and what keeps it from going over to the costume is restraint—being able to pull back. Whereas some people go all out and do something that is totally eccentric; it looks great on stage, but not a lot of people can wear it. In my design process, I do take it to that point, but then I ask myself, “What can I do to make it a little more wearable, a little more believable, and not so far out into outer space?”
Tell me something about the collection tonight…I just wanted to capture the essence of masculinity in all its different forms. For example, the fur coat with the leather pants is inspired by the illustrations of Tom of Finland; the fitted suits are a little bit of David Bowie, the sexy rocker. A lot of these influences played out on the runway this evening…even the military influence of the aviator.
What inspired the aviator look?
I was thinking a little of Amelia Earhart… I was looking at an old movie with the Red Barron, and I really got into the costumes, wondering what I could bring into my work, such as the goggles, the leggings, the boots... But there was a lot of mixing from different periods and influences, as well.
How do you define the Andrew Nowell kind of man?
The Andrew Nowell man is a confident man who feels good about himself and his body. He is knowledgeable of music, arts, and culture.
Is there a country that you have visited where the men’s fashion impressed you?
I would say Benidorm, Spain. The men wear what they want to wear, whatever color they like, because they are free-thinking people and not bogged down by what others think they should wear. I thought it was great to see that—such a freedom!
What do you do when you are not designing?Go to the gym; eat gray boring food… (Chuckle)
Music?
I like lounge music; I love alternative rock… For example, Zero 7, Air, Nine Inch Nails, Stone Temple Pilots, Tool and Alice in Chains—I like to mix it up!
Favorite TV show?
My favorite TV show is Damages with Glenn Close—that’s the one I don’t miss.
Male icon…?
Harrison Ford… He is a man’s man without trying to be one. True masculinity—Indiana Jones, Patriot Games… Even when I was in college, I kind of dressed like him… (Laughter)
As you can see, Andrew is a man of quality and hard work, which are vividly reflected in his collections!
My favorite TV show is Damages with Glenn Close—that’s the one I don’t miss.
Male icon…?
Harrison Ford… He is a man’s man without trying to be one. True masculinity—Indiana Jones, Patriot Games… Even when I was in college, I kind of dressed like him… (Laughter)
As you can see, Andrew is a man of quality and hard work, which are vividly reflected in his collections!
Andrew Nowell—the designer that knows how to strike the right balance every time!
Photos & slideshow Copyright DC Fashion Week.
Photos & slideshow Copyright DC Fashion Week.
Photo top left Andrew Nowell and Emore'J Couture, Copyright Shy Magazine.
