Tomorrow in the nation’s capital, the Menswear Collection Show kicks off at DC Fashion Week! I have already had the privilege of interviewing menswear designer, Andrew Nowell, who has been attending the event for the past 4 years.I am very pleased to know you! Would you mind telling me a bit of where you are from?
I was born in New York City and raised in the Bronx, not far from the neighborhood where Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren grew up. I attended the High School of Art and Design in Manhattan where I took a strong interest in Fashion Illustration. In my senior year, I decided to apply to the Fashion Institute of Technology where I majored in Menswear Design. I would later find out that Calvin Klein attended both the High School of Art and Design and Fashion Institute. My mother is very religious and that, in some ways, shaped my design philosophy.
Do you still live in New York?
I live in Washington DC.
What brought you to DC?
I relocated here shortly after my discharge from the Navy.
When did you join the Navy, and how was that experience?
I joined the Navy after I graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. I served for close to 9 years on two aircraft carriers. I’ve traveled across the Mediterranean, visiting France, Spain, Israel, Turkey, Greece, Saudi Arabia and Egypt. I would have my sewing machine with me on the ship and always managed to churn out something to wear at each port of call.
When did you develop an interest in designing?
My last year in High School. At that time there wasn’t a lot of interest in menswear; it was very boring. I saw that as a challenge, being able to do something exciting in menswear with all its constraints.
Was there a particular event that sparked the desire?My family was poor and I wasn’t able to afford the clothes that the cool kids at school wore. My Aunt surprised me with a sewing machine one day and I started making clothing for myself. I was fascinated with the idea of being able to bring a sketch/design into being, through fabric and a needle.
What inspires you as a designer?
I’m inspired by the hip-hop and rock cultures, Saville Row in London, the B-Boy on 125th street in Harlem and The illustrations of Tom of Finland.
Do you hold to any philosophy about menswear?
Yes, making a man feel as sexy as a woman would, without being vulgar.
How would you describe the Andrew Nowell look?
I would sum it up as modern, edgy, sexy, and restrained.
Tell me something about the fashion scene in DC from your point of view…
The fashion scene in Washington, D.C. is very conservative. It’s a town inhabited by lobbyists, lawyers, government workers and politician’s. So the dress for men here is very subdued and boring. I’m thankful for the Internet and my trips to New York for inspiration.
What role do you play in this scene?
I offer an alternative way of dressing for those who are tired of the Navy Blue Blazers and Khaki pants. With the arrival of the Obama’s, Washington DC is opening up to different ideas of dressing. Michelle Obama is now a fashion icon and many women in this area are beginning to follow her lead. I can only hope that it’ll influence the menswear sector in the city, as well.
How does your city compare to other cities?
There is no comparison. There isn’t much of a fashion scene here. Everything is anal and uptight, and it shows in the everyday dress of the people. New York City has a European sensibility; Miami is very colorful and ethnic; and San Francisco has an easy, laid-back hippie vibe. You can see the influence of the character of each city in the dress of its citizens.
How long have you been attending at the DC Fashion Week?I’ve been showing at DC Fashion Week for the past four years.
What are your impressions thus far of the event?
I applaud Ean Williams for all his work in creating a Fashion week in Washington DC. It’s something that was sorely needed and his sparked something of a fashion movement here.
For further reading, go to Andrew Nowell, Striking the Right Balance .
Photos Copyright Andrew Nowell.
