Paolo Midolo: the Pride of Orani

Surrounded by hills in a lush green valley of central Sardinia, the inhabitants of Orani cannot boast a large population, which number about 3,100 inhabitants, but they can celebrate a long history of artisans, craftsmen, painters, and designers.

One notable “master of apparel”—mastru 'e pannos—is Paolo Midolo, who not only inherited but also revived the tradition of the 3-piece pastoral suit.

For years, while jeans in the sixties and seventies overcame traditional styles, Paolo worked in the talc mines of Orani; but his boutique was never closed.

Then, something happened in the 1980’s: the new generation of youth started to yearn for the classic fabrics of their grandparents.

The corduroy and coarse woolen material called orbace (pronounced “orbache” in English), which constituted the traditional garb, began once again undergirding the pastoral ethnicity of inland Sardinia.

Paolo swiflty fused contemporary styles with the traditional tailoring of his sartoria into an new “ethno-chic” look.

Photos Copyright Paolo Midolo.

Mario Cau & the Lost Art of the “Sartoria”

“Sartoria” is the Italian word for atelier in French and can translate as a designer studio, a tailor or seamstress shop, and/or an artist’s workroom.

Traditionally, a sartoria was where men and women went to purchase made-to-measure attire; hence, the English word ‘sartorial’.

My grandmother was a sarta (‘seamstress’), specializing in the lost art of making lace with a tombolo, which consisted of a cushion with a formation of nails that were attached to wooden bobbins with strings. She held about 50 bobbins in her hands and dexterously wove them in and out of her fingers to weave the lace.

In Cagliari, there still exist several sartorie or ateliers, including Mario Cau, who opened his doors to local men and women in 1962. His son, Maurizio, has managed the productions of shirts since 1986.

Mario Cau stands for elegance as he designs for professional men who want to dress diversely in classic sophistication, whether at work or play.

Keeping up with the times, Mario Cau has automated his “made to measure” by providing faraway clients the opportunity to insert their measurements online and receive the same traditional sartorial treatment that the locals have enjoyed for decades.

Photo Copyright Mario Cau.

Bagella: Preserving Traditional Menswear in Sardinia

In my previous article, I summarized the history of Sardinia, briefly describing the evolution of traditional Sardinian menswear, which emerged in the 17th and 18th centuries when special laws that had connected social class to certain garments were abolished.

These legal changes opened the doors to new fabrics from Catalonia (Spain) and other Mediterranean influences, which affected colors and styles. Alas, the so-called “Ethnic Suit” was born, which is still worn in Sardinia by politicians and artists today.

Fabrics usually consist of corduroy and moleskin. The color palette comprises dark brown, black, green, and grey. Jackets are single-breasted with 2 or 3 buttons, 4 appliqued pockets, and a half belt in the back.

Shirts are white and made of cotton or linen with a small collar, sometimes with pleating in the front. Formerly riding pants, trousers tend to narrow at the bottom so that they may be tucked into leather boots. Pockets feature embroidered borders.

In 1932, Nino Bagella opened a traditional Sardinian clothing store on the Vittorio Emanuele boulevard. The atelier is now one of the oldest shops in Sassari (Tàthari in Sardinian), the second largest city in northwest Sardinia, which is surrounded by olive trees, oaks, and maquis shrubs like sage.

Carrying on the tradition, Nino’s son, Rinaldo, continues to preserve the poised ruggedness of original Sardinian styles, which are crafted by local artisans.

Photos Copyright Bagella.
Slideshow Copyright Bagella.