Michael Londrigan on the Recession, Sustainability & the Future of Menswear

What are your thoughts on sustainability and menswear; for example, are green trends making inroads?

"You raise valid questions regarding green and sustainability, but my contention is that menswear is inherently sustainable. Think about it compared to women’s wear, which is pretty much disposable clothing. What a woman wears one season, you will not see the next (of course, this is a generalization but one that holds truth). Whereas menswear, you invest in pieces—a suit, sport coat, dress shirt, casual pants—you wear these for a long time and they do not usually go out of style. That is why I say menswear is inherently sustainable: we don’t throw things away. I am a member of the Taconic Road Runners Club based in Westchester New York; I have t-shirts from races that are 20 years old!"

Do you feel complete "green" collections of menswear are easy to find?

"Look at a company like Bagir, they are making men’s suits out of recycled fibers. It is out there you just have to look."

Will eco-fashion catch on in menswear or will it become a niche market because of costs?

"Will it catch on big? No, but it will continue to gain momentum and play an important role in the menswear industry."

How has the current recession affected the menswear industry?

"The current economic crisis has affected all industries, and menswear is not immune. Sales are down; it is harder for new designers/labels to break out; and the traditional companies are hoping to hang on until this passes, as it will. The ones that survive will be stronger and in a better position to compete for the remaining retail dollars."

What direction has menswear taken within the last 20-30 years, and where do you think the industry is going?

"I think the direction menswear has taken over the last 20-30 years is great. Men started to and still enjoy the ability to wear color like never before. I think menswear will continue to evolve with more and more younger guys getting into fashion. Men are no longer dressing for success but dressing because they feel like it. They are dressing because they want to look and feel good and, of course, attract their opposite—whatever it may be."

Do you have any advice to the reader who is contemplating whether or not to enter the menswear industry, say, as a designer?

"I am not so sure I am the right person to give advice on entering the menswear industry as a designer, but I would encourage any student or individual that is interested in menswear to get involved in the industry either in sales, marketing, sourcing, planning analysts, merchandising, product development, buyer, etc. It has served me well and I enjoyed meeting the many people that I did and traveling all over the world, conducting business as I did."

Michael, thank you again for sharing your years of experience and expertise with us! We look forward to hearing more from you in the future and even from your students at LIM College, who are reading! Next time, you must tell us what you are doing in that cold water!

Michael Londrigan: the Man behind the Book

Michael Londrigan—author, educator, and former businessman with 28 years experience under his belt in the menswear industry—shares his personal life and tastes in the first half of this exclusive 2-part interview with Men's Fashion by Francesco.

Tell me about your upbringing...
I was born and raised in Jersey City, NJ, one of six children, third oldest. My father was a police officer and my mother a homemaker. My parents took good care of us with what they had. When it came time for college, it was up to me to pay the way, so I loaded trucks from 6-12 pm, six nights a week while a freshman in college. As a sophomore, I took a job with Morgan Guarantee Bank in Manhattan, working from 10 pm to 6 and going to school full time during the day.

Did you ever dream of doing what you do today?
I had no clue I would ever end up in the position I am in today. After I graduated from St. Peter’s College in Jersey City, I took a day job at the bank. But it was not for me.

What led you into the clothing industry and, specifically, menswear?
I applied for a position with JC Penney (when they had their corporate office in Manhattan) and was offered a job as a catalog control buyer. I was assigned to the menswear department and, from there, promoted to an assistant buyer. After several years I decided to try the wholesale business, and the rest is history.

How did you wind up teaching at LIM College?
I first starting teaching 15 years ago at FIT; it was a very political atmosphere and almost soured me on the entire teaching idea. I was there for two years and was not reappointed. Through a series of events (companies closing, divisions closing, relocating) I wanted a change and got back into teaching. I started with Berkeley College in New Jersey and made the switch to LIM College last July when I was approached by a search firm when LIM was looking for a Chair of the Fashion Department.

The US has undoubtedly produced world famous menswear designers and labels. At the same time, I do hear the comment from others that men in the US do not dress stylishly. Do you disagree?
I do disagree with that statement, as the US is a very big country with many different dress codes around the nation. So when one looks from another country or visits from another country, they are going to tourist areas and not seeing the stylish types. They are not seeing the fashion innovators. Sit in an airport and look at what men are wearing, and it is no wonder that this is the impression from outside the country. If they are not businessmen wearing suits or sport coats, then many (not all) look a little slovenly. I know you are from Italy and men pride themselves as being always well-dressed, but you have to take into account different cultures. The US is that melting pot and accounts for all sorts of different looks, and that adds to the richness of the menswear industry.

Do you prefer a certain period of menswear?
Partial to the 70’s, I am a t shirt and jean kind of guy.

What is your favorite men's look?

My favorite look is a great wool suit matched with a great dress shirt and tie!

Thank you, Michael, for acquainting us with the man behind the book!

Menswear: Business to Style by Michael Londrigan

For years I had surveyed the landscape, searching for anyone who would engineer their expertise into a comprehensive blueprint of the modern-day men's fashion industry—but to no avail!

Finally I stumbled upon an ad for the latest publication entitled Menswear: Business to Style. Advertised as an exhaustive exposé on menswear based on the author's numerous years of experience in the field, I purchased the book and set about reading its entirety.

Chapter after chapter, like an endowed architect, the author lays a solid foundation of the menswear industry, starting with the ancient Greeks! Then, brick upon brick, he builds the theme throughout the centuries until he arrives at a skyscraper of knowledge covering every corner of the present-day menswear industry.

In addition to the cover, the first few chapters so enthralled me that I sat down to write to this illustrious author, whose name is Michael Londrigan. To my surprise, Michael responded to my email without delay, requesting permission to use my articles in his syllabus at LIM College where he chairs the Department of Fashion Merchandising!

I discovered from Michael that LIM College focuses on the business of fashion, educating men and women in retailing, buying, management, product development, marketing, visual merchandising, publications, and cosmetics—since 1939!

Located in the heart of Manhattan, LIM College runs 4 locations, offering associate and bachelor's degrees, as well as an MBA. To think that my articles would have a role in training the next generation of men and women who will drive the fashion industry, I was beside myself!

A week later when I was privileged to speak with Michael by phone, my first question was obviously, "What inspired you to write such a thorough exposition on the menswear industry?"

"The genesis for the text," answered Michael graciously, "was an existing text published by Pierson, titled Menswear: Suiting the Customer. I was using this text teaching menswear for Berkeley College and realized it had been published in 1993 and not updated; it had and still has a picture of OJ Simpson in the text as a fashion icon! I knew something had to be done, so I decided to take on the project. Fairchild liked the idea, so I used my industry experience and research to compile the text."

With 28 years of experience in the menswear sales, merchandising, and marketing for several private label companies, Michael Londrigan shares many insights into the industry.

For more from this menswear guru, stay tuned for a 2-part exclusive interview with Michael Londrigan, as he discusses his personal life and professional experiences, sustainability, the current recession, and the future of the menswear industry!

Photo Menswear: Business to Style Copyright 2009 Fairchild Books, used with permission by author.