Fashion Districts 101: from New York to Naples

It is that exciting time of year again for the next edition of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only menswear magazine in Egypt. Since the Spring Edition has met with such wide acclaim, I thought I would give you a sneak preview to the Summer Edition. The following article is entitled, Fashion Districts 101: from New York to Naples:

In last year’s summer issue, I briefly described the history of fashion in Istanbul, which dates back to the days of the Ottoman Empire. Today, Istanbul has grown into a shopper’s paradise brimming with bazaars, covered markets, and award-winning shopping malls.

Nevertheless, these types of commercial centers differ radically from the three major fashion districts in Istanbul; namely, Merter, Osmanbey, and Laleli, which team with fashion houses, showrooms, and garment manufacturers.

Hence, the question arises: “Just what is the fundamental difference between fashion districts and fashion or shopping centers?

To most individuals, a fashion district denotes some sort of urban shopping destination, consisting of designer boutiques, prestigious labels, and haut couture. But a fashion district is not merely a major souk or commercial quarter but rather a specific kind of industrial district.

Categorized as such, fashion districts can be defined as a conglomeration of companies specializing in textile and garment production within the same geographic area, wherein there exists a measure of interdependence and competition.

As will be seen, fashion districts come in all shapes and sizes, each presenting a different history, infrastructure, network of interrelationships, and current setting.

New York City
One of the most famed fashion districts in the world is the Garment District of New York City, which is situated between Fifth and Ninth Avenues from 34th to 42nd Streets, occupying nearly one square mile.

Also known as the Garment Center and the Fashion Center, New York’s fashion district has played a central role in US textile manufacturing and fashion design since the late 1800’s, at which time the driving force of the local industry was a diversified immigrant population.

By the turn of the 19th century, New York was already out-producing every urban rival. Moreover, the city’s garment industry had surpassed all other industries, becoming a center of fashion that set new trends and ever-changing styles.

Although fabric and accessory shops still abound in the Big Apple, most clothing manufacturers have abandoned the island, leaving New York one of the top fashion capitals in the world. The fashion industry is the second largest industry, as well as home to the headquarters of nearly 1,000 fashion companies.

Generating approximately $10 billion in wages, New York City has emerged as a worldwide destination for upscale shopping districts with numerous flagship stores, such as Puma, Benetton, and Dolce & Gabbana.

London
London is a city known for fashion streets, particularly menswear streets. While Savile Row is often associated with fine suits, Jermyn Street is synonymous with shirt making and gentleman’s apparel.

Located in Mayfair of Central London, Savile Row is not only renowned for “bespoke tailoring,” but it is also reputed as the birthplace of the term, which denotes ‘custom-made clothing’.

Built between 1731 and 1735, Savile Row began attracting tailors in the 1800’s due to George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, who popularized the modern-day suit and tie into an image called “the dandy.” Beau, the model dandy, was noted for his impeccably fitted apparel.

Located in Westminster of Central London, Jermyn Street dates back to about 1664 and is celebrated for gentleman fashion, particularly fine shirts.

Naples
Contrary to much popular opinion, Naples and its surrounding towns have been a main fashion hub in Italy for generations, boasting a vibrant garment production industry since WWII.
In 1999, local artisans passed the baton to CIS di Nola, which has become one of the largest fashion districts in Europe—a showcase of 300 companies that unites nearly 1,000.

At CIS di Nola, one may not find the classy upscale showrooms of Dolce & Gabbana or Valentino but the eight islands brim with numerous local labels like my all-time favorite—Primo Emporio.

Besides onsite sales and distribution, CIS di Nola organizes international road shows, such as the recent “CIS Business Tour for Lebanon”—a business-to-business event that took place 11-14 April 2010.

Photo top right Francesco in Istanbul Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.
Photo top left United Colors of Benetton on 5th Avenue, New York, Copyright Benetton.
Photo bottom right Beau Brummell by Herr uebermann, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Photo bottom left CIS di Nola Copyright CIS.

From Chaps to Charros with British Designer Erin Lewis

Since graduating from the University of the Arts London in 2008 with a BA in Menswear Fashion Design and Technology, Erin Lewis has joined Mexico’s leading eco-fashion brand, Taller Flora, as head designer of the Charro (Cowboy) Collection, founded by indigenous clothing expert, Carla Fernandez.

Such a dramatic shift from the dandy chaps of her graduate collection with Dashing Tweeds in the UK to the indigenous Charrería of Mexico speaks of outstanding open-mindedness, flexibility, and a spirit of adventure on Erin's part.

Recently I had the privilege to interview Erin, so I would like to introduce you to her.

Erin, where are you from originally?
I was born by the sea, Hastings, England.

And what can you tell me about the kind of family you grew up in?
I grew up open-minded and appreciating all cultures. My family has the most amazing life experience, an irreplaceable intelligence. My mother has lived in various places, including Copenhagen, the Sahara Desert, a small farm in Southern Ireland, and a gypsy camp in Sicily. My grandmother traveled the world with her husband, who was in the Merchant Navy—her house is like a ‘world museum’, totally awesome.

When did you first sense a desire to design?
To be honest I have no idea. I have been drawing and painting since I can remember. With design I project creativity into another place, especially now as a girl designing menswear. In my work I can combine history and the future, tradition and design, being a boy and being a girl. I also did training in sculpture; I would love to design furniture someday. I even wonder sometimes about architecture.

What led you into designing menswear?
Jacob Epstien, Cathy de Monchaux, Jon Isherwood, Hamish Black, Rebecca Horn, Louise Bourgeouis—the brute strength and human fragility of the work, of these artists influenced me deeply, simply forms and textures. I’m not interested in trend-led fast fashion, which is where menswear suits me: structured clothes that will last you a life-time. This can be true of womenswear too. For me working at Boudicca was such a privilege: pieces finished to the highest quality and possessing both a masculine and feminine strength. Menswear is my focus and my handwriting, the best place for me to start. This past year, I have also been making womenswear, although no skirts or dresses just yet.

How did you wind up in Mexico?
Just before I graduated, I was chosen by the British Council for this project to come to Mexico and work with Carla Fernandez at Taller Flora. It’s an exchange of cultures. Carla is an expert in traditional Mexican textiles and indigenous pattern cutting—all based on squares—and I mix this with my British-trained design and tailoring. It’s always been a dream to travel and work; I never imagined I’d ever end up working with Mexican Charro cowboys!

What about the men’s fashion scene in Mexico…
The fashion scene in Mexico is only just developing really, so it’s an exciting time to be here. It’s hard to compare. London is one of the ‘fashion cities’ and Mexico City is the largest city in the world. I call Isabella La Católica the Savile Row of Mexico City, but it obviously doesn’t have and will never have the same legacy. The young Mexican designers emerging now have to make their own history.

In what ways is Mexico and Mexican fashion impacting you and your designs?
The strength of Mexican people in their history inspired the last collection, from the Aztec eagle warriors to the Adelita girls of the Mexican revolution. Also, we work with traditional textiles, which is an overload in inspiration! The challenge is to take the right ones forward and to use them in such a way that is new and to avoid looking ‘ethnic’. We try to change people’s perceptions of textiles they are familiar with by making them something new, making people appreciate them without preconceptions.

Describe your previous “look” and how has that changed?
For starters, with my last collection I wasn’t working with Mexican Cowboy artisans! I guess this collection was slightly less conceptual as I am considering Taller Flora as a brand that has a focus on the textiles that we use. The shapes and angles that I cut are still there as that’s how I enjoy making the most of a highly visual fabric. The men’s silhouette is still strong and has that warrior-element that I love. Just now that warrior has become ‘Euro-Latino’. That’s pretty hot, no?

Definitely! Thanks so much Erin, and all the best of luck to you!



Photo top left graduate collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
Photo middle right Charro Collection Copyright Erin Lewis.
Slideshow Charro Collection Copyright Erin Lewis.

Dimitri Stavrou’s Stylish Ride from Cyprus to London

Cyprus is the 3rd largest island in the Mediterranean, a member of the European Union since 2004, and one of the most prosperous economies in the region. A former colony of England, Cyprus became an independent republic only in 1960. The island, however, is divided into Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots. A UN Green Line separates the Turkish-controlled north—recognized only by Turkey—from the south, which is effectively controlled by the internationally recognized Republic of Cyprus. Recently, I have had the privilege of interviewing the UK-Cypriot designer, Dimitri Stavrou:

So, Dimitri, where were you born and raised?
I was born in London and I grew up in Larnaca, Cyprus. For me, I got the best of both cultures as I was spending time in both cities: studying in Cyprus, taking my half-term holidays in London.

Are both your parents from Cyprus?
My father is Cypriot and my mum, an English Cypriot born and raised in London.

And how about you, do you consider yourself English or Greek?
I do not consider myself either pure English or pure Greek: you’re more than welcome to do the math regarding my family tree (smile). I have the best of both nationalities, so I use both (chuckle).

How old were you when you started desiging?
It was at a young age. I can’t remember a specific age when I got into it. I think it was meant to happen at one point. I come from a family that is very conscious about making a good first impression.

You’re recent show definitely made a good one! Did any events lead up to this decision?
Well, as I said it wasn’t something that happened from one minute to the next. I think I always knew I was going to do something creative, whether it was art related or fashion related. I think one overtook the other. I think being conscious about what to wear and how to wear clothing always fascinated me; after all, growing up I do remember how I used to mix and match clothes and almost create like a mini trend I would follow.

How did that go over in Cyprus?
Growing up in a small village in Cyprus most certainly made me look out of synch with the rest of the people of my age group. I was the black sheep, the outcast, the person that did not follow the “normal” or acceptable dress code (more chuckles).

When did you take your first real step?
I began designing clothes for myself at the age of 15 and started customizing and making my own clothes. I was bored with things I found in shops, etc., so I gave them a little touch—well, my own personal touch.

What inspires you when you design?
Well, everything and anything inspires me…depends…the time and the place, and also in what state of mind I am. I like to create my own little dark stories when I create a collection. I think something that has a macabre or cynical story behind it always creates an interest. As a person I am very sensitive, and to me a good designer needs to be sensitive and in touch with the surrounding environment. Through my work I channel my emotions, my thoughts, my desires; but also you need to understand yourself as a person in order to visualize the message you want to bring across through your work.

How much does Greek culture play a part?
My last collection was inspired by Greek mythology and folklore. I mean, it’s hard not to be inspired by your own culture. I studied ancient Greek text when I was in high school, and I was always fascinated by the imagination of my ancestors. So you try to interpret and include personal and cultural elements within your work; this gives you your own identity as a visionary and a creative designer within your field.

Do you have a favorite designer?
Yes I do (grinning). Alexander McQueen! To me, he is a genius. He is a technique-based designer that loves the drama and loves to create and offer something new to the world of fashion. I did my apprenticeship there in the menswear studio, in 2007, and I enjoyed and loved every single minute of it.

What is your favorite look for yourself?
I only wear black, so anything black. There is a lack of colour in my wardrobe, but that’s because I like it that way. Black gives me a nice backdrop to display my eccentric and sparkly accessories (smiling).

Is there a period in history that attracts you?
I would go even further back in time towards the late 18th and early 19th century and, to be more precise, I’m talking about Dandyism. These were men that were very particular with their outer appearance and truly enjoyed fashion at the time. To me, they elevated their aesthetic to a living religion.

Do you take a thematic approach to your collections?
I do, although I am not a slave to my own concept. For example, if I’m inspired by medieval body armor, I am not going to sit in an iron workshop to try and replicate that. What people do not understand, sometimes, is where the relationship of a collection to the clothing ties in. What I research for a collection, I try to create the inspiration through my pattern cutting and fabrication. But also the way a catwalk show is staged—the makeup, the music, the venue—is all part of your concept. At the end of the day, the designer is the store teller and, through a collection, you start to see the story. A viewer might sometimes interpret it differently; but there is always a theme behind my design and, as I mentioned before, it’s usually a dark theme (chuckling).

Tell me about your formal training…
I studied my BA and MA at London College of Fashion and, during that time, I worked and collaborated with various companies. McQueen was an 8-month apprenticeship; I did some styling for Ashish and recently collaborated with Dr Martins for my collection amongst other projects, which are ongoing.

What can you tell me about the fashion scene on Cyprus?
Hmmmm… Well, Cyprus is a small island, so basically guys there don’t try to stick out that much. Although every time I go there, I do try to stir things up (laughing). I remember one summer; I arrived on the island in an 80’s vintage Gaultier man skirt. Yep, that did raise a couple of eyebrows. It’s safe to say, it’s not like London or any other major metropolitan city. Guys there try to blend with the rest. Although it’s slightly changing now, I think menswear in Cyprus has a long way to go.

So how do the men dress differently than in Continental Europe or England?
…depends where you live, where you grow up, what religious background you come from. There are many factors that need to be taken into consideration. I take myself as an example when I was living in Cyprus. Although I wanted to experiment with my sense of style, there was only up to a certain point I could push it. People gossip and judge you according to how you look and how you dress. This is why I love London so much, ‘cause it gives young people the platform to express their sense of style and sexuality, and you don’t easily find that in any city, in the world. Men are also very conscious about the way they dress; but as I say, it takes a real man to be daring and pull it off no matter what color or cut an outfit has. I grew up in a village where everyone knew everyone, so you can imagine if your appearance did not go down well: one day it ends up as village gossip. This never bothered me at all, although sometimes I did feel people where looking at me as if I came from the planet mars. But everyone should be comfortable to express their taste and style through their own wardrobes. The other thing I love about doing menswear is there are so many boundaries to brake and experiment with. It’s a young industry and we have only just seen men actually taking into consideration alternative styles and combos.

You have lived in many diverse places… Do you have a favorite city?
As for favorite country, well, put it this way I don’t do countryside, so anything that looks like you can distress—I hate. I’m a city boy. I love the buzz. But if I had to select, it would be Paris or London: London because it’s a vital place where every designer comes to do research for trends/looks and enjoys the cities alternative night life and Paris for its chic café culture and lavish shops.

I love to ask designers their opinions on ethical fashion and sustainability…
I believe in ethical fashion and sustainability within fashion, but to me this is achieved through the beauty and admiration of historical craftsmanship via the product. I practice traditional tailoring and I emphasize high standard of quality within my collections. At the end of the day, a customer gets for what they pay. Many say, “you pay for the name of a designer product,” which is true, but you also pay for quality of finishing and material, which the high street doesn’t offer. A Saville Row blazer will last a lifetime compared to a blazer that is bought from High Street from store X. So, if you have a classic piece in your wardrobe that you can constantly wear season in season out, then—yes--that is ethical or green fashion or whatever you may call it. My work consists of local fabrics sourced within the U.K and Europe, and I do all my production in London, so for me that is sustainability: I am helping local business. The amount of energy it will take to source an ‘organic’, ‘green’ fabric from the other side of the world and ship it back and then call it ethical—to me that is a joke. You only need to go to a museum to see designers’ previous work showcased within exhibitions and admired by everyone. That’s ethical…

Where do you think menswear is heading as an industry?
Menswear is a growing industry that still is causing a stir. Designers are more experimental and playful with their menswear. We like to try out new things, new cuts with regards to where it’s heading.

Are you excited about the direction?
Well, I think everyone should sit back, buckle up, and enjoy the ride. I know I will …



Slide Show Dimitri Stavrou London College of Fashion MA 2009 Show Copyright by Larapixie.
Photo by Marcobadotti Public Domain at Wikipedia.

Victoria Beckham New Expensive House

Victoria Beckham New Expensive House

Whether it is her Beverly Hills house or a tree house for her children, Victoria Beckham always settles for most expensive house, jewelries, clothes and wedding rings. Victoria Beckham was in news during last but one Christmas when she reportedly presented a very expensive tree tent house to her three sons. Victoria and David Beckham' Los Angeles house is a pretty expensive house spread over a sprawling estate with private pool, gym, sauna and all the luxuries that is beyond the imagination of common persons.


Apart from being expensive, Victoria Beckham's new home if USA is a dream home with acres of land, tennis court, a large outdoor pool, a garden and couple of bedrooms. The Beckham couple also own two more very expensive houses one at London and another at Milan. It is hard for millions of people to believe that for Victoria Beckham, having a house with a price tag of 20+ million isn't an expensive deal. However, Victoria Beckham loves her 12,000 square feet property with Italian style bedrooms and furniture.



Victoria Beckham New Expensive House



Victoria Beckham New Expensive House



Victoria Beckham New Expensive House



Victoria Beckham New Expensive House

Victoria Beckham Haircut Pictures in 2009

Victoria Beckham Haircut Pictures in 2009

Best known as as the hottest trend setting celebrity, Victoria Beckham manages to stand out above the other celebrities no matter what be the event, a fashion show or Hollywood hot parties. In 2009, Victoria Beckham has come out with couple of new Posh cuts including a very new and modern version of her signature Pob haircut. Internet is flooded with thousands of pictures displaying some of the most gorgeous and stunning haircuts of Victoria Beckham.



Victoria Beckham is probably one of the few celebrities that must be rarely facing bad hair days especially with her timeless, ageless, modern, young and sexy haircuts and hairstyles. No doubt, Victoria Beckham' hair fashion, haircuts and hairstyles have undergone a great evolution from London to Los Angeles. However, after settling down in Beverly Hills, Victoria Beckham has pretty well proved that she is the ruling queen of bob haircuts. Check out some of the latest Victoria Beckham Haircut Pictures in 2009.



Victoria Beckham Haircut Pictures in 2009



Victoria Beckham Haircut Pictures in 2009




Victoria Beckham Haircut Pictures in 2009

David Beckham Latest Haircuts and Hairstyles in 2009

David Beckham Latest Haircuts and Hairstyles in 2009

Whether in London, Milan or New York, David Beckham has always maintained a statement on his hair fashion and fashion senses. Right from his early days with Manchester to his arrival in USA, David Beckham has truly exemplified his haircuts, hairstyles and hair fashion. If you have ever seen the hair evolution of David Beckham haircuts, you would surely be surprised at his bold actions about his haircuts and hairstyles.



In 2009, David Beckham would continue to rule the fashion world by sporting couple of cool and stunning haircuts and hairstyles. Regardless of which haircuts and hairstyles David Beckham has sported in 2009, he always commands huge attention from his millions of fans and tons of hairstyle magazines, tabloids and websites. David Beckham is no longer a 'brylcream' boy of the late 90s, instead, David Beckham has surprised the fashion media by wearing some of the coolest haircuts and hairstyles in 2009.



David Beckham Latest Haircuts and Hairstyles in 2009



David Beckham Latest Haircuts and Hairstyles in 2009



David Beckham Latest Haircuts and Hairstyles in 2009



David Beckham Latest Haircuts and Hairstyles in 2009