Cyprus is the 3rd largest island in the Mediterranean, a member of the European Union since 2004, and one of the most prosperous economies in the region. A former colony of England, Cyprus became an independent republic only in 1960. The island, however, is divided into Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots. A UN Green Line separates the Turkish-controlled north—recognized only by Turkey—from the south, which is effectively controlled by the internationally recognized Republic of Cyprus. Recently, I have had the privilege of interviewing the UK-Cypriot designer, Dimitri Stavrou:So, Dimitri, where were you born and raised?
I was born in London and I grew up in Larnaca, Cyprus. For me, I got the best of both cultures as I was spending time in both cities: studying in Cyprus, taking my half-term holidays in London.
Are both your parents from Cyprus?
My father is Cypriot and my mum, an English Cypriot born and raised in London.
And how about you, do you consider yourself English or Greek?
I do not consider myself either pure English or pure Greek: you’re more than welcome to do the math regarding my family tree (smile). I have the best of both nationalities, so I use both (chuckle).
How old were you when you started desiging?
It was at a young age. I can’t remember a specific age when I got into it. I think it was meant to happen at one point. I come from a family that is very conscious about making a good first impression.
You’re recent show definitely made a good one! Did any events lead up to this decision?
Well, as I said it wasn’t something that happened from one minute to the next. I think I always knew I was going to do something creative, whether it was art related or fashion related. I think one overtook the other. I think being conscious about what to wear and how to wear clothing always fascinated me; after all, growing up I do remember how I used to mix and match clothes and almost create like a mini trend I would follow.
How did that go over in Cyprus?
Growing up in a small village in Cyprus most certainly made me look out of synch with the rest of the people of my age group. I was the black sheep, the outcast, the person that did not follow the “normal” or acceptable dress code (more chuckles).
When did you take your first real step?
I began designing clothes for myself at the age of 15 and started customizing and making my own clothes. I was bored with things I found in shops, etc., so I gave them a little touch—well, my own personal touch.
What inspires you when you design?
Well, everything and anything inspires me…depends…the time and the place, and also in what state of mind I am. I like to create my own little dark stories when I create a collection. I think something that has a macabre or cynical story behind it always creates an interest. As a person I am very sensitive, and to me a good designer needs to be sensitive and in touch with the surrounding environment. Through my work I channel my emotions, my thoughts, my desires; but also you need to understand yourself as a person in order to visualize the message you want to bring across through your work.
How much does Greek culture play a part?
My last collection was inspired by Greek mythology and folklore. I mean, it’s hard not to be inspired by your own culture. I studied ancient Greek text when I was in high school, and I was always fascinated by the imagination of my ancestors. So you try to interpret and include personal and cultural elements within your work; this gives you your own identity as a visionary and a creative designer within your field.
Do you have a favorite designer?
Yes I do (grinning). Alexander McQueen! To me, he is a genius. He is a technique-based designer that loves the drama and loves to create and offer something new to the world of fashion. I did my apprenticeship there in the menswear studio, in 2007, and I enjoyed and loved every single minute of it.
What is your favorite look for yourself?
I only wear black, so anything black. There is a lack of colour in my wardrobe, but that’s because I like it that way. Black gives me a nice backdrop to display my eccentric and sparkly accessories (smiling).
Is there a period in history that attracts you?
I would go even further back in time towards the late 18th and early 19th century and, to be more precise, I’m talking about Dandyism. These were men that were very particular with their outer appearance and truly enjoyed fashion at the time. To me, they elevated their aesthetic to a living religion.
Do you take a thematic approach to your collections?
I do, although I am not a slave to my own concept. For example, if I’m inspired by medieval body armor, I am not going to sit in an iron workshop to try and replicate that. What people do not understand, sometimes, is where the relationship of a collection to the clothing ties in. What I research for a collection, I try to create the inspiration through my pattern cutting and fabrication. But also the way a catwalk show is staged—the makeup, the music, the venue—is all part of your concept. At the end of the day, the designer is the store teller and, through a collection, you start to see the story. A viewer might sometimes interpret it differently; but there is always a theme behind my design and, as I mentioned before, it’s usually a dark theme (chuckling).
Tell me about your formal training…
I studied my BA and MA at London College of Fashion and, during that time, I worked and collaborated with various companies. McQueen was an 8-month apprenticeship; I did some styling for Ashish and recently collaborated with Dr Martins for my collection amongst other projects, which are ongoing.
What can you tell me about the fashion scene on Cyprus?
Hmmmm… Well, Cyprus is a small island, so basically guys there don’t try to stick out that much. Although every time I go there, I do try to stir things up (laughing). I remember one summer; I arrived on the island in an 80’s vintage Gaultier man skirt. Yep, that did raise a couple of eyebrows. It’s safe to say, it’s not like London or any other major metropolitan city. Guys there try to blend with the rest. Although it’s slightly changing now, I think menswear in Cyprus has a long way to go.
So how do the men dress differently than in Continental Europe or England?
…depends where you live, where you grow up, what religious background you come from. There are many factors that need to be taken into consideration. I take myself as an example when I was living in Cyprus. Although I wanted to experiment with my sense of style, there was only up to a certain point I could push it. People gossip and judge you according to how you look and how you dress. This is why I love London so much, ‘cause it gives young people the platform to express their sense of style and sexuality, and you don’t easily find that in any city, in the world. Men are also very conscious about the way they dress; but as I say, it takes a real man to be daring and pull it off no matter what color or cut an outfit has. I grew up in a village where everyone knew everyone, so you can imagine if your appearance did not go down well: one day it ends up as village gossip. This never bothered me at all, although sometimes I did feel people where looking at me as if I came from the planet mars. But everyone should be comfortable to express their taste and style through their own wardrobes. The other thing I love about doing menswear is there are so many boundaries to brake and experiment with. It’s a young industry and we have only just seen men actually taking into consideration alternative styles and combos.
You have lived in many diverse places… Do you have a favorite city?
As for favorite country, well, put it this way I don’t do countryside, so anything that looks like you can distress—I hate. I’m a city boy. I love the buzz. But if I had to select, it would be Paris or London: London because it’s a vital place where every designer comes to do research for trends/looks and enjoys the cities alternative night life and Paris for its chic café culture and lavish shops.
I love to ask designers their opinions on ethical fashion and sustainability…
I believe in ethical fashion and sustainability within fashion, but to me this is achieved through the beauty and admiration of historical craftsmanship via the product. I practice traditional tailoring and I emphasize high standard of quality within my collections. At the end of the day, a customer gets for what they pay. Many say, “you pay for the name of a designer product,” which is true, but you also pay for quality of finishing and material, which the high street doesn’t offer. A Saville Row blazer will last a lifetime compared to a blazer that is bought from High Street from store X. So, if you have a classic piece in your wardrobe that you can constantly wear season in season out, then—yes--that is ethical or green fashion or whatever you may call it. My work consists of local fabrics sourced within the U.K and Europe, and I do all my production in London, so for me that is sustainability: I am helping local business. The amount of energy it will take to source an ‘organic’, ‘green’ fabric from the other side of the world and ship it back and then call it ethical—to me that is a joke. You only need to go to a museum to see designers’ previous work showcased within exhibitions and admired by everyone. That’s ethical…
Where do you think menswear is heading as an industry?
Menswear is a growing industry that still is causing a stir. Designers are more experimental and playful with their menswear. We like to try out new things, new cuts with regards to where it’s heading.
Are you excited about the direction?
Well, I think everyone should sit back, buckle up, and enjoy the ride. I know I will …
Slide Show Dimitri Stavrou London College of Fashion MA 2009 Show Copyright by Larapixie.
Photo by Marcobadotti Public Domain at Wikipedia.
