China, Menswear & the Industrial Revolution by Chi Zhang

It is always thrilling to receive the look books of Chinese designer Chi Zhang, who, at a young age, exhibits astonishing talent.

I just received the images of Chi Zhang’s 2011 spring/summer collection, in which I could not help but notice a metallic, machinery, and machine-worker feel.

So, as usual, I decided to hear from the designer himself and what inspired him. Chi Zhang immediately replied:

“The theme and concept of this collection is industrial revolution, I have discovered the beauty of rust unintentionally. In terms for the textile, I’ve gone heavy with leather and a hint of silk to decorate.”

The Industrial Revolution encompassed two centuries—the 18th and 19th—wherein technology significantly impacted society, culture, economics, and the environment.

Departing from the United Kingdom, the Industrial Revolution soon spread to Europe, the US and Canada, and soon the entire globe.

Personally I witnessed a type of industrial revolution ignite within China when I first arrived in 1986. Yet, what took the West two centuries to achieve seems to have taken China only two decades—probably much of Chi Zhang’s life!

Well, here is a menswear collection inspired by the Industrial Revolution through the eyes of a Chinese designer!

Have a walk back in history through the entire look book here.

Photos Copyright Chi Zhang.

Men’s Wear Duo Debut Spring 2011 Collection at New York Fashion Week

San Francisco, CA, September 10, 2010 – Louie Llewellyn, M.F.A. Men’s Wear Design, and Xiang Zhang, M.F.A. Knitwear Design, premiered their collaborative men’s wear collection at the Academy of Art University fashion show of recent graduates on Friday, September 10th at 8:00 PM in The Theater at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center.

Boston native Louie used the theme of a ‘disagreement’ between a hard and soft men’s wear silhouette. He designed the woven pieces with sharp edges and bold lines, and then added softer fabrics for contrast. He used one of his favorite paintings, Incision by Jay Defeo, for the color inspiration and selected fabrics to evoke a feeling of strength and desire. His favorite fabric for this collection is a cotton-silk blend piqué in lavender and black.

Shanghai native Xiang designed the knitwear pieces for the collection. Over 30 swatches were created before the final color combinations were selected. A time-consuming plating technique, knitting with two strands of yarn held by hand and twisted to obtain the desired effect and color combination, was used. Each knit piece took approximately 50 hours to finish.

Since 2005, the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University in San Francisco has premiered the collections of recent graduates during New York Fashion Week. “We view this show as the University’s commitment to help launch the careers of these young designers,” said Dr. Elisa Stephens, president of Academy of Art University. “To be a part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is an incredible opportunity.”

About Academy of Art University
With more than 16,000 students, Academy of Art University is the nation’s largest private art and design university. Established in 1929, the school offers accredited A.A., B.A., B.F.A., M.A., M.Arch and M.F.A. programs in Advertising, Animation & Visual Effects, Architecture, Art Education, Fashion, Fine Art, Game Design, Graphic Design, Illustration, Industrial Design, Interior Architecture & Design, Motion Pictures & Television, Multimedia Communications, Music for Visual Media, Photography, and Web Design & New Media. Online degrees are offered in most of the 16 majors. Academy of Art University is an accredited member of WASC (Western Association of Schools and Colleges), NASAD, Council for Interior Design Accreditation (BFA-IAD) and NAAB (M.Arch).

About the School of Fashion
Over 2,500 fashion students study under the guidance of experienced fashion professionals in the School of Fashion, which houses ten areas of specialization: Fashion Design for Women’s Wear, Men’s Wear, and Children’s Wear; Technical Design; Textile Design; Knitwear Design; Accessory Design; Costume Design; Fashion Illustration; Fashion Journalism; Fashion Merchandising; and Visual Merchandising.

See the collection here.

Photos by Randy Brooke, Courtesy of the Academy of Art University.

“Chivalry Spirit” by Chi Zhang

Chivalry, gallantry, valor—we all love to be pampered in one way or another, whether by someone opening a door or offering a seat on a bus. Ah, the chivalrous spirit!

Well, if you are not on the receiving end but rather the cavalier, now there is an entire line of clothing for you entitled “Chivalry Spirit” by Chi Zhang.

The word chivalry actually comes from the French word “chevalier,” designating someone who rides a horse. The term dates back to the “gentlemen solders” of medieval knighthood.

Knights of the Middle Ages were trained in courtesy and honor, a code of behavior that depict the contemporary cavalier!

In his 2010 spring/summer collection, Chinese designer Chi Zhang has created for us a stalwart image of Middle-Age might with brawny silhouettes of medieval knights.

If you are feeling a chivalrous this season, do not settle for just a cavalier in disguise: Chivalry Spirit is the right look for you!



To read more about Chi Zhang, please refer my article entitle Designer Chi Zhang's Northern Capital of Fashion.

Photo 2010 spring/summer collection "Chivalry Spirit" Copyright Chi Zhang.

Designer Chi Zhang's Northern Capital of Fashion

Formally known to many as Peking, Beijing literally means ‘northern capital’ (北京 běi jīng) and is China's second city in size only to Shanghai.

As for its prehistoric origins, Beijing has produced remnants of human habitation, which dates back to Peking Man of a half million years ago!

Last year, “Beijing” became almost synonymous with the 2008 Olympic Games. Ah, but how soon we forget—One World, One Dream?!

Forget we may, but I will never my first visit to Beijing, when I arrived to China to teach linguistics in one of the remote regions of the country.

It was the mid-Eighties. Construction was raging everywhere. Instead of TV antennas striping the skyline, cranes sat perched on the roofs of countless unfinished high-rises and skyscrapers.

Overshadowed by the massive heaps of glass and concrete, however, the traditional bijou of China's yester years was all but hidden: unrefurbished homes graced with delicate wooden birdcages hanging outside walled-in courtyards.

Pouring down the streets were thick, oncoming, bumper-to-bumper torrents of bicycles and tricycles, horse carts and pull carts, three- and four-wheeled tractors, buses, cars, vans—even 1940 trucks—and, yes, farmers who carefully balanced produce that hung from opposite ends of bamboo poles straddled across their shoulders!

But times have changed in just twenty years—a modern industrial miracle—at a cost, of course! Nevertheless, Beijing has become an ultra-modern, post-industrial financial and business center.

Beijing is also becoming home to a number of talented fashion designers, such as Chi Zhang (pronounced like chir jang).

Born in Beijing, Chi Zhang went to the UK to study at the young age of 16, pursuing a master’s degree in Milan, Italy, at Istituto Marangoni.

When he returned to Beijing in August of last year, he launched his menswear label CHI ZHANG, which he recently debuted at Shanghai Fashion Week.



Photo top right CHI ZHANG 2009 a/w collection from Larapixie.
Slide show CHI ZHANG 2009 a/w collection from Larapixie.

Xander Zhou Brings a Touch of Europe to Shanghai Fashion Week

Shanghai is the largest city in China with 20 million inhabitants, which automatically makes it one of the most populous cities in the world!

Historically Shanghai was a fishing village that evolved into a textile center for the nation during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).

As the name suggests, Shanghai is a port city—literally “on” (上 shàng) and “the sea” (海 hǎi)—a position that has facilitated the city’s recent transition to a major cosmopolitan center for design.

Shanghai is undoubtedly one of the most influential players within China’s fashion industry. Already for six years, the city has hosted Shanghai Fashion Week, which not only showcases the best of Chinese talent but also reputable designers from around the world.

Last week 26-year-old Chinese designer, Xander Zhou, sent his 2009 a/w collection to the catwalk of Shanghai Fashion Week, clearly demonstrating to the world that a major shift is occurring within the industry from "Made in China" to "Designed in China."

Xander Zhou first studied graphic design in his homeland but then pursued fashion at Den Haag Fashion Institute in the Netherlands. After a brief stint with Dutch designer Jeroen van Tuyl, Xander returned to Beijing where he discovered less “establishment” in setting up his own label.

Although his belief is that design has no nationality, Xander Zhou takes his cultural heritage seriously, incorporating conflicting elements into his creations.



Photo 2009 a/w collection Xander Zhou Copyright Larapixie.
Slide show 2009 a/w collection Xander Zhou Copyright Larapixie.

Happy Chinese New Year!

Most people equate Chinese fashion with the manufacturing and production industry or copies of European design, at best. What often goes unnoticed, however, is China's booming fashion industry. In celebration of the Chinese New Year this week, I would like to feature Chinese fashion.

Styles have definitely changed since the 80's when I lived and worked in rural China. Although many Chinese were experimenting with colors and patterns, the Mao suit was still a common attire among the masses. In the 1990's, unlike other countries, the Chinese government began promoting young designers by organizing various fashion events.

One of the most prominent Chinese designers to have emerged is 46-year-old Ji Wenbo, who is known for his Li Lang menswear brand. Ji Wenbo is a forerunner in Chinese fashion. He was the first Chinese designer to debut in both Tokyo and Milan Fashion Weeks, a milestone in Chinese fashion history.

What makes Ji Wenbo so unique is how he draws his inspiration from the unearthed Terracotta soldiers of Xian and blends them with the Beijing Opera and traditional Chinese folk culture.

Ji Wenbo, congratulations and Happy New Year!

Photo Ji Wenbo s/s 2009 collection, Copyright Japan Fashion Week Organization.