When in Sardinia, Eat as the Sardinians...and with them!

Last night I went out to dinner with some of my father’s friends, who took me to a restaurant in Quartu Sant’Elena, just outside of Cagliari, called Pane e Casu Quartu (‘Quartu Bread and Cheese’), which is run by an exquisite Sardinian culinary expert, Efisio Mameli (photo bottom left).

Sardinian cuisine is atypical of many islands due to a long history of invasions, which forced the local populations to dwell inland rather than on the coast. Instead of a fish-based cuisine, therefore, the typical cuisine of Sardinia is pastoral, including animals like—yes!—the donkey!

Last night’s feast was kicked off royally with the queen of Sardinian reds—the dry, full-body Monica wine—which was accompanied by various sorts of creamy pecorino cheeses served on Sardinian shepherd’s bread—pan carasau (literally, ‘bread cooked to crispiness’). Dating back to the Nuraghic people of the 2nd millennium BC, pan carasau is also known today as carta da musica (‘music paper’).

After a trio of appetizers consisting of sautéed eggplant, chickpeas, and fava beans, two pasta dishes were presented in loving abbondanza: Culurgionis—thick shells made of semolina, filled with a creamy pecorino cheese, and flavored with saffron; and Pasta de busa—made by wrapping the pasta around knitting needles and served in a sauce of ground wild boar meat seasoned with mint.

The second course consisted of two meat dishes. First, we savored some porceddu, which is milk-fed suckling pig roasted on a spit and served on a bed of myrtle. Then came the ass—thin flanks of donkey meat grilled to tender perfection.

We concluded the banquet with a plate of seadas, deep fried ravioli-like pastries that are filled with a creamy pecorino cheese and drizzled with bitter honey.

Of course, we couldn’t leave without a few shots of Fil’e ferru, a type of Sardinian grappa or “white lightening,” followed by another shot of Mirto—liquor made from red myrtle berries.

We all concluded that the best way to digest all these tasty delights was to take a long night walk along Poetto, Cagliari’s main beach!

Photos Copyright Men’ Fashion by Francesco.

Welcome to Cagliari

Today I am writing to you from the beautiful and bustling city of Cagliari, pronounced Càh-yliari in English or Càllari in Spanish, which is known by the locals as Castèddu, meaning ‘castle’.

Capital of Sardinia, Cagliari is home to approximately 160,000 inhabitants, or ½ million if you count the suburbs. The city was founded in the 8th century BC by the Phoenicians, who named it Karalis, which was merely one of the many Phoenician colonies along the coast.

The name Karalis was derived from two Phoenician words: kar (‘community’) and al (‘rock’)—hence, ‘community on a rock’.

Like the rest of the island, subsequent empires and republics have left their footprints on the city, including Rome, the Vandals, Byzantium, Pisa, Genoa, Catalonia, Aragon, Spain, and Piedmont.

With the passing of each domination, so mutated the name, going to Càralis by the Romans, Càlleri by the Catalans, and finally Cagliari in Italian. As with the name, so changed the culture and the menswear, which we will examine in depth. But now, a look at the city.

Cagliari is built on a steep hill of white rock, which culminates in a dramatic hike to an imposing medieval Castle—su casteddu—the highest point and oldest section of the city, which offers a breathtaking view of the bay.

The towers of the castle were constructed by the Pisans in 1307 as a defense against the Aragonese, who ultimately defeated the Pisans and completed the construction of the castle. At least, this time, the Pisans succeeded in leaving two towers that are not leaning!

Next to the castle lies a Roman amphi-theatre, which was carved into the side of the hill about the 2nd century BC to accommodate 10,000 spectators for gladiator battles. The amphitheatre is still operational for musical and theatrical events today.

As for contemporary menswear, well, let’s first say that the cagliaritani are easy on the eyes, dressing in a slim silhouette with fitted shirts, tees, shorts, and jeans. All very basic with details, nothing radical, but a pretty smart look. Way to go, guys!

In the way of shopping, I did not spot many stores for men and, being on an island, the prices struck me as bit higher than on the mainland. If you are into big names, your best bet is the department store la Rinascente at the port.

Just around the corner, I found an Energie store with a great selection. Since it is September, everything is 50% off. I couldn’t resist buying a great sheer, white shirt, which I am going to wear tonight when I go out to dinner with some friends of my father.

So now, why not sit back and take a walk with me through the winding, narrow streets of Cagliari, observing the raw mixture of architectural styles like art deco and Fascist neo-classicism.



Photo top center, aerial view of Cagliari.
Photo middle left, Pisan tower.
Photo bottom right, Roman amphitheatre.
Slideshow & photos Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.