Theatre de la Mode: Olympian

On the 15th July 2010 Theatre de la Mode will premier a film by Camilla Robinson a vision of Olympian Gods and the capricious behavior of humans. Characters are draped in the Spring/Summer 2011 collection from Theatre de la Mode and as the Gods and Goddesses peer dreamily down upon us, the Olympian collection is brought to life in a visual spectacle.

The premier taking place at 203 Brompton Road, is the creative vision of Christopher Kelly. As Creative Director of Theatre de la Mode Christopher is known for innovative presentations of the Theatre de la Mode collections and S/S 11 is no exception.

The film will be projected onto the ceiling, reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel playing on the theme of Gods and Goddesses. Interrupting the grandeur of the Gods are black and white scenes of human destruction on Earth, images of the wrath of Gods in stormy skies and floods are mixed with archive footage of our own attempts at Olympian athletes, circa 1930’s.

Visions of Gods and humans are cut together in a surging finale.

The Olympian collection is the materialized Vision of Camilla Robinson’s film. Inspired by the Olympian deities, the collection is made using draping, silhouettes and quilted textures. Shapes are taken from the draping of the togas but retain a structured control. Prints are inspired by John Stezaker photography collages combined with Chinese porcelain repeats and colour blocks. Combined, this creates a refined collaboration of colour and shapes.

See the whole collection here.

T d l M :: Spring / Summer 2011 :: Olympian from Theatre de la Mode on Vimeo.

Photos & text Copyright Theatre de la Mode.

Theatre de la Mode: Arctic Contortion

For A/W 2011 Theatre de la Mode presents a collection that embodies the spirit of exploration and discovery. Inspired by heroic figures and classical illustrations, this season sees the reinvention of Theatre de la Mode’s signature draping, made more remarkable by the addition of slim line pieces and collaged hand crafted print.

The arctic explorer Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton, a turn of the century British hero, provides the inspiration for the oversized, utilitarian cut of the collection. A statue of the explorer outside the London headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society, perfectly displays the voluminous silhouette with protective draping that epitomizes the look of Theatre de la Mode. The style invokes an adventurous spirit, while retaining the comfort and practicality of its utilitarian foundations.

Drawing further inspiration from times past, a pencil drawn study of British birds is transformed into an imaginative, geometric crest, which becomes the central motif in the collection. More traditional drawings of a taxidermied Eider appear printed on T-shirts. Featuring throughout the range are hand painted stripes that have been collaged into triangular patterns adding a textural element to jersey and sweat pieces.

Fabrics for the season include wax coated cotton, offering a layer of protection to casual separates. A Classic brushed cotton tartan and needle corduroy add to the authentically British feel of the collection. With a mused palette of rich navy, khaki, stone grey, maroon and olive, the utilitarian look is preserved.

Theatre de la Mode Creative Director Christopher Kelly has become known for his unique take on men’s ready to wear. His oversized silhouettes demand a relaxed attitude to sophisticated style and bring a refreshing challenge to contemporary menswear.

Take a look at the entire look book here.

Photos & text Copyright Theatre de la Mode.

“TuTa Symmetry” by Theatre de la Mode

I first met Chris Kelly a year ago when he sent me an invitation to London Fashion Week where he presented that season’s menswear collection of Theatre de la Mode. Now I would like to introduce you to the 2010 autumn/winter collection entitled “TuTa Symmetry”:

“‘TuTa symmetry’ is a moment of self-definition for Theatre de la Mode; with strong foundations in utilitarian design, the collection represents a natural evolution to a more fashion forward sense of wearability. As the name suggests – the perfectly balanced design takes inspiration from the clean lines and tailoring of classic menswear and twists it with the image of casual wear.

This season is particularly inspired by Thayaht, the Italian artist whose revolutionary designs led the futurists in fashion, costume, stage design, and decorative arts. Most famously, he invented a garment named TuTa, a form of coverall that was fashionable, but practical and accessible to all.

The look of Thayaht’s TuTa was simple, clean design – casual but refined for its smart approach to functional dressing. Similarly, this season Theatre de la Mode has emphasized symmetry and draping to achieve a unique form of tailored casual wear. The sweat blazer is a casual staple with a refined edge that merges fashion and function. A heavily draped neckline and a boxed silhouette combine in the snood hoodie. Trouser design is approached with a denim eye, but keeps the labels classic loosely structured silhouette. New trouser shapes come in the form of the gusset trouser and the elastic waist tailored pant.

Colours for the season are rich and neutral – moss, charcoal grey, plum, stone and navy. This is sophisticated casual wear with the feel of military uniforms: trans-seasonal dressing for urban aesthetes. From his studio in London’s east end creative director/head designer Christopher Kelly experiments with shape and proportion, designing collections for men and women that display his ever-present penchant for technique and craftsmanship. Since its launch in 2007 Theatre de la Mode has been recognized internationally in the press by publications such as Dazed Digital, JC report and Style bubble.”



Photo & slideshow 2010 autumn/winter collection Copyright Theatre de la Mode.

The African Finch, Now Playing at Theatre de la Mode

Last week, Theatre de la Mode alighted on the perch of London Fashion Week, flapping the wings of its 2010 spring/summer collection in all the bright plumage of citrus orange, deep water coral, and sunny tangerine.

Designer Christopher Kelly remarks “the silhouette of gentleman’s lounge wear is one of ease and boxed drape that fit the mood of Theatre de la Mode.”

Chris drew his inspiration from the African finch, which he applied to the leisure wear of the 1930's. He conceived the idea when his eyes were drawn to the hand-painted sign of a pet shop, the star of which was an African finch.

Since true finches are seed-eating songbirds, why not sit pack with a healthy sunflower snack and, flipping through the photo gallery, listen the melodic chirps and coos of the African finch.

For more information on Theatre de la Mode, read my previous articles Galloping thru London Fashion Week! & Theatre de la Mode Presents Elixir of the Hungarian Horseman.



Photos & slideshow Copyright Theatre de la Mode .

Photo top right by MichaelMaggs, Creative Commons license at Wikipedia.

Theatre de la Mode Presents Elixir of the Hungarian Horseman

For a sneak preview of what may be galloping by you this fall/winter season, turn off the music below and click on Elixir of the Hungarian Horseman by Theatre de la Mode!

Video Copyright by Theatre de la Mode.

What the Designers are Saying...

Like most readers of my articles, I share an intense passion for menswear and, in particular, for the myriad of individuals who bring innovative men's fashion to us everyday, from designer to retailer.

The means I choose to express this deep-felt gratitude is through my writings. For this reason, my primary reward is to receive feedback from the various subjects of my articles. Here are a few quotes of what some designers and their staff are saying:

Tomas Overtoom of OntFront
Thank you for your wonderful articles. Your eloquence reaches for the sky. Compliments how well you understand Liza, the brand, and the collections.

Shinchiro Shimojo of Under Castle
I have read your article about my "Cross Wear" and was glad that you understood my concepts deeply. I enjoyed reading it very much, indeed!

Chris Kelly of Theatre de la Mode
The article is fantastic. Thank you for such a great write up.

Tani
Thank you! Namaste! Grazie! It's so great!! I'm mailing the site to my family and friends!!!!

Article 23
Thank you for your article, we are very satisfied of this collaboration.

Prophetik
Enjoyed your article about Prophetik...

John Rocha
Thank you for sending this through. It reads very well and we will definitely forward it to John.

Michael Londrigan
Thank you for taking the time to write these articles. I truly appreciate it.

Andrea for Ute Ploier
Your article is fantastic! Thank you very much for letting us know! You are welcome to send more questions anytime.

Anco Sneep of Rubia Pigmenta Naturalia
Wonderful job you did! Thanks!

Messagerie
Abbiamo letto l'articolo sulla nostra linea da lei pubblicato e vorremmo sinceramente ringraziarla per le belle parole. Complimenti per la documentazione sulla storia di San Marino!

Organizer of Seattle Fashion Week
You probably get this alot, but those articles are amazing. You really captured the spirit of SFW and I truly appreciate it.

You may find additional responses at What the Designers Keep on Saying..., What the Designers have been Saying, and Some More of What the Designers Are Saying.

Galloping thru London Fashion Week!

Several weeks ago, designer Christopher Kelly of Theatre de la Mode kindly sent me an invitation to London Fashion Week, where he presented his 2009 a/w collection entitled Elixir of the Hungarian Horseman.

As I glanced over the photos, the collection began conjuring up images of the fierce Magyar horsemen that galloped about the ancient grasslands for over a thousand years. Growing intoxicated by the elixir of their valor, as if to hear the hooves of a violent stampede, I could almost see the rough riders swooping down upon their foes!

"Was my imagination running wild?" I decided to write Chris, who explained:

"Elixir of the Hungarian Horseman draws inspiration from the Hungarian prairie man. An exuberant people, the horsemen survived in the most inhospitable lands. The Hungarian prairies bore an emotive man who feared the loss of his lands to neighbouring countryman. Companionship for the lone prairie man came in the form of his trusted stead. A master on horseback, the attire of the horseman was bellowing in its function.

A silhouette of drape and bellow inspires the AW10 collection juxtaposed with intense panel work drawn from the cubist architecture of Piet Bloom. The AW10 range takes a step towards the avantgarde. Staying true to the Theatre de la Mode outsized silhouette fabrics and cut become more elaborate and ever more outsized. Pieces take the shape of heavily draped sweat hoodies, geo cap sleeved jackets, and shirts."

Christopher Kelly was born in 1976, in Winchester, England. He went on to study fashion at the University of Derby where he graduated with honors in 2000. Seven years later, he launched his spectacular label Theatre de la Mode.

Paying homage to the war-torn fashion capital of Paris, his label recalls the extraordinary resilience of the city's couturiers, who banded together in a "theater of fashion" during the austere years of the 1940's.

Despite the severe shortages in the aftermath of World War II, the Parisian theater designers would not be deterred from creating their post-war collections, which were ingeniously presented in the form of miniature mannequin dolls.

Christopher Kelly resurrects the Theatre de la Mode and, refusing to be deterred, infuses the modern-day fashion industry with a revived dose of encouragement amidst the current economic woes. Reflecting the trends that were set into motion in the post-war period, his collections are timeless and sexless.

So join in with Chris during these tough times and experience the Elixir of his Hungarian Horsemen in all their intoxicating valor and swift resilience to adversity!

Photo 2009 a/w collection Copyright Theatre de la Mode.