JUMA 2011 Autumn/Winter Unisex Collection: Sneak Preview

Brother and sister duo, Alia and Jamil Juma, have traveled to India, Tibet, Thailand, and Shenzhen (China) where they researched wildlife and local tapestry techniques.

Along with these influences, the designer duo incorporates gradients of color—midnight blue, burnt coral, olive, tangerine, nude, and black—to render the collection darker and moody.

Silhouettes and styling are directional as the video reflects the mood.

JUMA - 2011 FALL WINTER - Kaleidoscope from jumaonline on Vimeo.

Photos Copyright JUMA.

Dana Lee's Classic North American Look

Dana Lee is a menswear designer based in New York who believes in supporting local production.

Daughter to an architect, Dana grew up in a home that her father built over a creek in North Vancouver—hence surrounded by nature’s best: canyons, mountains, and forests.

Dana’s outdoor life also shaped her sense of comfortable designs, which have been evolving since the onset of her fashion career.

Her first collection, entitled A-Z, emphasized everyday basics like shapes and fabrics. Dana envisioned her collection in juxtaposition to the asymmetrical gothic styles of the time.

Her 2011 spring/summer collection is simple, practical, and down to earth—possibly a reflection of the designer herself.

See the collection here.

Photos Copyright Dana Lee, Courtesy CJ Swanton.

Drew William at Vancouver Fashion Week

Next week at Vancouver Fashion Week, 23-year-old Edmonton-born designer, Drew William, will present his 2011 spring/summer collection, which is entitled “Fractured.”

As the young designers states, “This season is a visual investigation of line and space: a reductivist approach to design.”
He goes on to say that “This will be the second collection showing of Drew William’s women’s wear alongside his menswear.”

Drew promises that it will be the best collection to date. Have a peek here.

Photos Copyright Drew William.

18 Waits—So Enjoy It When It Arrives

At the Capsule Show in New York, which I attended two weeks ago, I was pleased to preview the 2011 spring/summer collection of 18 Waits and meet William McCullough—friend and business partner of the founder and chief designer, Daniel Torjman.

I read online that Daniel is a huge fan of Seventies rock and roll, in particular Tom Waits—this could explain the “Waits” part of the label.

As for the number 18, well, it represents a good number—a lucky one of sorts. Moreover, one often “waits” until the age of 18 for many things in life.

Anyway, I am sure that 18 Waits does not want you to wait to start enjoying life—hence, the reason for the brand: a sense of joie de vivre, or ‘joy of living’.

I like how 18 Waits describes itself: “It is a lifestyle which adheres just as much to Parisian cafés as it does to old English pubs, 1920s New York speakeasies, wood cabins by the lake, old upright pianos, poetry, literature, and 1970s rock and roll music.”

For autumn/winter 2010, 18 Waits has expanded the knit collection to transition more smoothly to tailored shirts.

The label will also bring back 4 favorite tees from the past, just in new colors.

Tailored shirts include long- and short-sleeves, while 2 styles of hats in 3 colors top off the collection.

Maybe you have seen the tagline before, but it is worth repeating: “Live Free. Travel Well. Enjoy Life. 18 Waits.”



Photo & slideshow Copyright 18 Waits.

a.a. by Antonio Azzuolo

Born and raised in Montreal, Antonio Azzuolo graduated with a B.A.A in Apparel Design from Ryerson University in Toronto, where he specialized in Men’s Tailoring.

Antonio moved to Milan after graduation, going on to participate in the “Festival des Jeunes Stylistes de Hyères” where he won first place in the menswear category.

The award permitted Antonio to relocate to Paris and launch his professional career.

Before he launched his label a.a., Antonio worked as design director for Ralph Lauren Purple and Black Label. He also served at Hermès and Kenzo in both New York and Paris.

Antonio has prepared an eclectic collection for autumn/winter 2010:

The Look
Urban space cowboys swing to a mod beat.

Inspirations
Hutterites, midnight cowboys, early Elvis, Glam Folk/Rock

Silhouette
Tailored and elongated shapes contrast with various cropped and layered knits.

Details
Saddle shoulder, rope sleeve, metallic leather patches, subtle graphic intarsia motifs, Trompe L’Oeil effects and recycled fur trim.

Color
Heather grey and beige, navy, brown, charcoal, black accents of apple green, melon, powdered blue, white, cream and iridescent metallic.



Photos & slideshow Copyright a.a.

DSQUARED² Spring/Summer 2010 Goes Live!

Last week I posted several articles on DSQUARED², an avantguarde label from Canada that has spread quickly around the world.

Meanwhile, a video of the DSQUARED² Spring/Summer 2010 collection has just gone live!

Inspired by the thriller film “American Gigolò,” the collection presents a sexy range of exquisite taste in men’s clothing.

Rather than allowing today’s gentleman to fall into a frumpy, degenerate state like the protagonist in the 1980 film, DSQUARED² redeems his honor and without an alibi!

Video Copyright DSQUARED².

Photo Copyright DSQUARED², Courtesy Fashion Times.

DSQUARED²—the Beginnings

Canadian twin brothers from Willowdale Ontario, Dean and Dan Caten have operated in the international fashion business since 1984.

They moved to New York City on 1983 to attend the Parson’s School of Design and on 1991 came to Italy where, on 1994, after many collaborations with the most important fashion houses, they had their first men’s collection show, marking the first in a long succession of runway extravaganzas that were to capture the attention of journalists and buyers for their perfect combination of fashion, music and theater.

The intelligent mix of irreverent Canadian wit and refined Italian tailoring, together with attention to detail are the foundation of today’s DSQUARED philosophy, which has given life to a unique concept of alternative luxury.

Recently, DSQUARED² collections have conquered a wider audience and, owing to their natural stylistic maturity, have become more chic and sophisticated while maintaining those sexy and provocative traits so embedded in their creative roots.

This evolution is also due to the continuous international inspiration received by Dean and Dan, who, while dividing their life and work between Milan and London, create their collections in Italy: “Born in Canada, living in London, made in Italy”.

Photo & text Copyright DSQUARED2.

“Aseptic Chic” by DSQUARED²

Milan, June 10th 2010. The F/W 2010 DSQUARED2 advertising campaign is once again brought to life by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggot’s impeccable shots.

Nudity observes and discloses the natural essence of fashion: the human body is the aseptic inspiration for the Caten twins.

The atmosphere is cold inside the modern anatomy lab, recalling a series of clinical experiments.

The models are imprisoned inside crystal cabins, similar to cooling cells that preserve and emphasize the importance of each look.

The aggressive and inexpressive woman is coloured almost monochromaticlaly, balanced by an alternating palette of black and white; opposition, however, is represented by slips, latex gloves and shocking red lips.

Ultra skinny leather dresses clothe the DSQUARED2 woman, as she is wearing shoes and high “spinal” heels. Cotton hockey shirts and dark jeans are worn by the DSQUARED2 man, though he sometimes experiments bare-chested.

He is strong and severe, but is still imprisoned: a concept that synergizes the F/W 2010 DSQUARED2 theme, and is one that hints at Damien Hirst’s art style.

DSQUARED2 eyewear also strictly follows Dean & Dan Caten’s concept, showing big, severe, rigid and geometric shapes.

Metal details and stylized squaring serve to emphasize their intensity.

Credits:
Photo: Mert Alas & Marcus Piggot
Art Direction: Giovanni Bianco
Styling: Camilla Nickerson
Hair: Garren Makeup: Charlotte Tilbury

Photo & text Copyright DSQUARED2.

Back to the Basics with Mackage

Modern. Sleek. Slim. Edgy. A chic silhouette. That’s Mackage in a nutshell. But there is more.

Mackage was founded on the premise that outerwear is an integral part of menswear: the coat is not merely an addition to the attire but rather the central outfit!

For spring/summer 2010, Mackage reinvents the classic look.

Long-term friends Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan return to their roots of utilitarian staples with luxe leathers, washed cottons, asymmetrical zippers and button placements, buckles, and hidden snaps.

Besides trenches, the collection presents waterproof bombers, as well as jackets that pack into an invisible pouch.

Mackage.



Photo & slideshow Copyright Mackage.

The Jack Purcell Shoe—Badminton Anyone?

John Edward “Jack” Purcell (1903–1991) was a Canadian badminton player that shot to world fame in 1933, later designing an athletic shoe that still bears “Jack Purcell.”

Growing up with tennis and golf, Jack took Ontario by storm when he picked up a badminton racquet and shuttlecock in 1924.

Already in 1929 and 1930, Jack was crowned Canadian National Badminton Champion!

In 1935, Jack designed a badminton shoe out of canvas and rubber for B.P. Goodrich of Canada. Converse purchased the rights in the 1970’s.

What sets the Jack Purcell shoe apart from, say, Chuck Taylor All Stars is the smile across the front.

Never have the Jack Purcell sneakers been more popular than today—75 years later! Jack keeps on smiling!



Photo & slideshow Jack Purcell shoe, Copyright Très Bien Shop.

JUMA 2010 Spring/Summer Collection Launch

I just received the launch video for the 2010 spring/summer collection by JUMA.

Jamil and Alia Juma are the Toronto-based brother and sister team that lay special emphasis on philanthropic foundations and activities.

Enjoy the video!


Video Copyright JUMA.

Farpitzs in Toronto...with Juma!

Alia and Jamil Juma—in one word: impressive!

Alia is a former model and graduate in Bio-systems Engineering from McGill University, who was also an assistant designer for several design houses.

Jamil worked as an investment strategist before entering the fashion industry.

In 2003, the brother and sister duo set out as co-designers and founded the contemporary clothing label Juma.

Based in Toronto, Canada, this sibling team throws a fresh twist on knitwear and jersey basics with a sporty touch that is inspired by their creative environment.

Living in a predominantly Jewish neighborhood, Alia and Jamil have reinterpreted for this season the traditional Hasidic look into a fresh, appealing shtick for urban men.

This winter, if you are planning to get dressed up, then get farpitzs with Juma!



Photos & Slideshow Copyright Juma.

Drew William: a Trooper for Men's Fashion!

The first designer of Vancouver Fashion Week that I would like to introduce is 23-year-old Drew William, who was born in Edmonton, capital of the Canadian province Alberta.

Originally a student of photography at Emily Carr University in Vancouver, Drew began experimenting with textiles while studying design at London’s Central Saint Martins.

He soon found himself in Copenhagen working under the tutelage of Henrik Vibskov where he explored conceptually the collision of opposing forces.

The 2009 fall/winter collection of Drew William is a visual experiment of oppositions in unity. As you will see in the picture gallery below, the pattern cutting is a reflection of fluid motion colliding with geometry.

At Vancouver Fashion Week, Drew will exhibit his 2010 s/s collection, of which he writes:

“The collection was inspired by aviation and my interpretation of the silhouettes and subverting them. Images that emerge are twisting parachute structures. Largely this collection was inspired by my grandfather and his participation with the Canadian forces as a paratrooper. It was a re-imagining of myself within those same parameters and on a basic level those clothes, putting myself within in history.”

Best of success to you, Drew, at Vancouver Fashion Week!



Photo top center 2010 s/s collection Copyright Drew William.
Slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Drew William.

Complex Geometries Simplifies Morality

Turn off playlist below before clicking on video.


Many people determine moral issues in life according to absolutes, defining them as black or white, right or wrong, heads or tails, and evil vs. good! There is nothing in between—no grey areas, no maybes, no fuzzy lines! Some even attribute rewards for choosing the one and punishment for the other.

In his 2009 a/w collection entitled “Between Good and Evil,” Canadian designer Clayton Evans challenges us to reexamine the conflict of moral ideals and their possible co-existence, as he leaps outside the box of moral absolutism to explore the world between the two!

Using vigilantes, religious icons, and ghostly apparitions as his points of reference, Clayton contrasts durable and fragile fabrics in bold black and white against garments of grey with hazy hues of pink and purple. With no clear front or back, the pieces feature large collars and capes, which can either portray modesty or conceal shame—you be the judge!

Originally from Alberta, Clayton Evans graduated from the Alberta College of Design and founded Complex Geometries in the fall of 2005. He is now located in Montreal.

So, I ask myself, how do I define reality: Is it all just black and white?



COMPLEX GEOMETRIES aw09 TRAILER Various Artists from JASON LAST on Vimeo.

Video artists: Stacy Lundeen, Tracy Maurice, Arianna, Jason Last & Renata Morales.
Slide Show 2009 a/w collection Copyright by Complex Geometries.

Mackage: From Doodles to Designs

Imagine sitting in elementary school at the age of twelve, doodling rough sketches on your desk, which later transform into applauded designs that bolster a family outwear business to one of the most prestigious brands in North America! Sound like a fairy tale? Well, maybe a genuine one...à la Mackage!

Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan may have stopped doodling one day, but they never stopped designing, as they graduated from high school to enter the fashion design program at La Salle College in Montreal. Now, this childhood doodling duo is designing for the outerwear label, Mackage.

Mackage is a family-run business based in Montreal, Quebec, which was founded in 1990 by Eran's older brothers Michel and Ilan Elfassy. Michel's daughter, Danielle, even inspired the name of the brand when she mispronounced the French word maquillage ('makeup') for Mackage!

Exhilarated by this romantic fairy tale à la Mackage, I could not help but entreat this almost mythical doodling duo for an interview!

Are Eran and Elisa the main designers of the outer menswear for Mackage?
Yes, Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan are both the creative minds and talent behind the collection.

What attracted you to fashion at such a young age?
Eran and Elisa both agreed that something was missing in the fashion world, outerwear that had a sexy tailored fit that would appeal to the contemporary market.

So I'm curious about the content of the doodles in elementary school?
Kids have wild imaginations...especially when they are able to draw so well!

Hmm...did Eran and Elisa have any idea that they would be designing together now?
Eran started designing solo, at first, as his family was already in the business. Elisa and Eran joined forces at around 19 yrs of age and together began to build what we know to be the Mackage Empire today.

Incredible! From where do you derive your inspirations?
Inspirations can come from anywhere. We like to blend in what we feel, what we've seen and where we've been...

Do you take a thematic approach to your collections each season?
We obviously follow the up-coming trends, but we like to twist that sometimes and use our own perspective of what the look for outerwear will be, should be.

What can you tell me about the fashion scene in Montreal?
Montreal is a contemporary city. It’s where we started it all! It’s where we found our first fans.

Is it different from other cities?
We can't say that it’s all that different, but we can say that it’s unique in its own way. Just like everywhere else in the world, Montreal has fashion followers and fashion setters. Everywhere you look, fashion is applied into everything: from cuisine, decor, furnishings, architecture...etc.! It’s where we call home.

Do you have any opinions about green fashion?
It's definitely something good toying with. It's great hearing about designers that are working with materials that are good for the environment.

For the readers in search of outerwear, what is the key to the perfect outer garment?
There can be many key elements to a perfect coat. We do our best in providing different cuts for each individual.

For example?
The main key elements that should be applied to the perfect coat are slimming silhouettes, which enhance the curves of the body, quality in fabrication and construction, comfort and warmth, and most importantly style. We feel that one needs to feel and look sexy and warm at the same time.

Best,

Eran and Elisa

Slideshow Copyright by Mackage.

Canadian Designer Sparks Toronto

Since his first debut, Philip Sparks has transformed the runway into a stage for thematic performances. Like a season at the opera, Sparks has been unfolding each drama with mounting crescendo.

Think back to the backdrop of Sparks’ 2008 Spring collection, which featured the sleek man of the flying 40’s strolling by Dutch waterways on pale summer afternoons.

Personifying the vintage mug shots of the celebrated photographer Mark Michaelson, Sparks’ 2008 Fall collection hailed the untold stories of ordinary people throughout generations of yore.

Inspired by Joseph Sterling’s book, the Age of Adolescence, Sparks’ 2009 Spring collection dramatized the hormonally charged youth of the fabulous 50’s.

The cast of his 2009 Fall collection is performing a duet of traditional Canadian styles and literary images from Sergei Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf—a story about a Soviet young pioneer who lassoes a wolf that devours his duck and leads the captured wolf to the zoo in a procession of hunters.

At a mere 26 years of age, Sparks orchestrates the entire production!

Desirous of a narrow vintage look, Sparks first tried his hand at making his own clothes on his mother’s old sewing machine when he was 16. Soon, he found himself sewing for teachers and classmates alike, even launching a small line that sold in stores.

After high school, Sparks went on to study fashion design at Seneca College, graduating as valedictorian of his class. Before launching his own label, Sparks worked in the costume departments of the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada. His costume research played a significant role in mastering traditional techniques, as well as providing captivating themes for his collections.

Vintage photographs are his favorite inspiration, followed by old artifacts and heirlooms.

Turn off my play list below and, as the curtain rises, sit back and enjoy the Sparks of Toronto's Peter and the Wolf.



Photo 2009 f/w collection Copyright by Philip Sparks.