Andrew Nowell, Striking the Right Balance

Andrew Nowell is probably one of the nicest guys that you can know! He is one of those fellows that make you feel at home, relaxed—you just want to kick your shoes off, sit back, and talk about whatever is on your mind.

Don’t misunderstand me, though. Andrew Nowell may be down to earth, but he is also intense in his feelings, pensive in thought, and very reflective with every spoken word.

After viewing his collection last week at the Menswear Collection Show at DC Fashion Week, I grabbed Andrew for a second interview. (Standing left in photo.)

Your profile reads that your design philosophy is rooted in the New York cultures of hip hop, R&B, and rock… So, how do you translate music into menswear?
By simply looking at the icons of each music genre, such as David Bowie, Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols, Kanye West, and even Michael Jackson and taking little elements. I then put my own spin on them, and this is what comes out on the runway. As you saw in my collection tonight, there were drop-crotch pants, which come from the hip hop influence of Kanye West…

Previously you stated that you design for men to feel sexy…. How do you define ‘sexy’?
Just being aware of your sensuality, your body, you ability to attract others—and with that, feeling confident. I think everyone wants to feel that way…and now it is changing for men. For the longest time, men were not allowed to feel sexy, because they equated it with being vulgar.

How do you bring sexiness into your designs?
What I do is try to focus on the cut of a man’s physique. Nowadays, men are going to the gym, not for health reasons but to look great on the beach or in a tank top: they want to feel sexy. So, that is who I am designing for.

Last week, you summed up your look as ‘modern’, ‘edgy’, ‘sexy’, and ‘restrained’… How do you combine ‘restraint’ with the other characteristics?
Well, there is a fine line between good design and costume, and what keeps it from going over to the costume is restraint—being able to pull back. Whereas some people go all out and do something that is totally eccentric; it looks great on stage, but not a lot of people can wear it. In my design process, I do take it to that point, but then I ask myself, “What can I do to make it a little more wearable, a little more believable, and not so far out into outer space?”

Tell me something about the collection tonight…
I just wanted to capture the essence of masculinity in all its different forms. For example, the fur coat with the leather pants is inspired by the illustrations of Tom of Finland; the fitted suits are a little bit of David Bowie, the sexy rocker. A lot of these influences played out on the runway this evening…even the military influence of the aviator.

What inspired the aviator look?
I was thinking a little of Amelia Earhart… I was looking at an old movie with the Red Barron, and I really got into the costumes, wondering what I could bring into my work, such as the goggles, the leggings, the boots... But there was a lot of mixing from different periods and influences, as well.

How do you define the Andrew Nowell kind of man?
The Andrew Nowell man is a confident man who feels good about himself and his body. He is knowledgeable of music, arts, and culture.

Is there a country that you have visited where the men’s fashion impressed you?
I would say Benidorm, Spain. The men wear what they want to wear, whatever color they like, because they are free-thinking people and not bogged down by what others think they should wear. I thought it was great to see that—such a freedom!

What do you do when you are not designing?
Go to the gym; eat gray boring food… (Chuckle)

Music?
I like lounge music; I love alternative rock… For example, Zero 7, Air, Nine Inch Nails, Stone Temple Pilots, Tool and Alice in Chains—I like to mix it up!

Favorite TV show?
My favorite TV show is Damages with Glenn Close—that’s the one I don’t miss.

Male icon…?
Harrison Ford… He is a man’s man without trying to be one. True masculinity—Indiana Jones, Patriot Games… Even when I was in college, I kind of dressed like him… (Laughter)

As you can see, Andrew is a man of quality and hard work, which are vividly reflected in his collections!

Andrew Nowell—the designer that knows how to strike the right balance every time!



Photos & slideshow Copyright DC Fashion Week.

Photo top left Andrew Nowell and Emore'J Couture, Copyright Shy Magazine.

The Menswear Collection Show at DC Fashion Week

I arrived to Washington DC last Saturday very eager to attend the Menswear Collection Show of DC Fashion Week, which is organized by Ean Williams, creative director of Corjor International.

Having already interviewed several designers, I was extremely excited to meet them individually and view their runway collections later that evening.

After an exotic lunch at an Ethiopian restaurant in Adams Morgan—spicing it up a bit—I ventured back to the Doubletree Hotel and “hung around” the show area to greet the designers as they straggled in.

I first met the host, Ean Williams—an energetic, kind, lively young man, who is deeply committed to the promotion of aspiring designers.

Born in St. Louis, Missouri, and raised in Memphis, Tennessee, Ean had turned in a career with the Air Force, NASA, and Verizon for a life as a couturier in his nation’s capital.

In addition to designing for his own label, Ean is an advisory board member for the Black Designers Association, Inc.

After meeting Ean, I continue to “hang out” backstage, meeting most of the designers Andrew Nowell, Emore'J Couture, Ray Vincente, and Stella Bonds. Each fitted their models as they prepared for the big event.

The pre-show atmosphere was so relaxed, so laid back: all the designers greeted me with a big hug and a huge smile! I truly felt at home; so I want to extend a supersized “thank you” back to all of them!

Please join with me over the next few articles to meet the designers!

In the meanwhile, I invite you to a preview of the show, courtesy of Style Spot.

DC Fashion Week - Highlights: Men from DC StyleSpot on Vimeo.

Photo top left Ean Williams & Francesco, Copyright Shy Magazine.
Photo middle right, Emore'J Couture & Francesco, Copyright Shy Magazine.

Andrew Nowell at DC Fashion Week

Tomorrow in the nation’s capital, the Menswear Collection Show kicks off at DC Fashion Week! I have already had the privilege of interviewing menswear designer, Andrew Nowell, who has been attending the event for the past 4 years.

I am very pleased to know you! Would you mind telling me a bit of where you are from?
I was born in New York City and raised in the Bronx, not far from the neighborhood where Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren grew up. I attended the High School of Art and Design in Manhattan where I took a strong interest in Fashion Illustration. In my senior year, I decided to apply to the Fashion Institute of Technology where I majored in Menswear Design. I would later find out that Calvin Klein attended both the High School of Art and Design and Fashion Institute. My mother is very religious and that, in some ways, shaped my design philosophy.

Do you still live in New York?
I live in Washington DC.

What brought you to DC?
I relocated here shortly after my discharge from the Navy.

When did you join the Navy, and how was that experience?
I joined the Navy after I graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. I served for close to 9 years on two aircraft carriers. I’ve traveled across the Mediterranean, visiting France, Spain, Israel, Turkey, Greece, Saudi Arabia and Egypt. I would have my sewing machine with me on the ship and always managed to churn out something to wear at each port of call.

When did you develop an interest in designing?
My last year in High School. At that time there wasn’t a lot of interest in menswear; it was very boring. I saw that as a challenge, being able to do something exciting in menswear with all its constraints.

Was there a particular event that sparked the desire?
My family was poor and I wasn’t able to afford the clothes that the cool kids at school wore. My Aunt surprised me with a sewing machine one day and I started making clothing for myself. I was fascinated with the idea of being able to bring a sketch/design into being, through fabric and a needle.

What inspires you as a designer?
I’m inspired by the hip-hop and rock cultures, Saville Row in London, the B-Boy on 125th street in Harlem and The illustrations of Tom of Finland.

Do you hold to any philosophy about menswear?
Yes, making a man feel as sexy as a woman would, without being vulgar.

How would you describe the Andrew Nowell look?
I would sum it up as modern, edgy, sexy, and restrained.

Tell me something about the fashion scene in DC from your point of view…
The fashion scene in Washington, D.C. is very conservative. It’s a town inhabited by lobbyists, lawyers, government workers and politician’s. So the dress for men here is very subdued and boring. I’m thankful for the Internet and my trips to New York for inspiration.

What role do you play in this scene?
I offer an alternative way of dressing for those who are tired of the Navy Blue Blazers and Khaki pants. With the arrival of the Obama’s, Washington DC is opening up to different ideas of dressing. Michelle Obama is now a fashion icon and many women in this area are beginning to follow her lead. I can only hope that it’ll influence the menswear sector in the city, as well.

How does your city compare to other cities?
There is no comparison. There isn’t much of a fashion scene here. Everything is anal and uptight, and it shows in the everyday dress of the people. New York City has a European sensibility; Miami is very colorful and ethnic; and San Francisco has an easy, laid-back hippie vibe. You can see the influence of the character of each city in the dress of its citizens.

How long have you been attending at the DC Fashion Week?
I’ve been showing at DC Fashion Week for the past four years.

What are your impressions thus far of the event?
I applaud Ean Williams for all his work in creating a Fashion week in Washington DC. It’s something that was sorely needed and his sparked something of a fashion movement here.

For further reading, go to Andrew Nowell, Striking the Right Balance .

Photos Copyright Andrew Nowell.