Naples, Nations & New Notions

Refused of their demands, the freedom fighters of Naples and its isle-studded bay beat the drum to unification as a last resort. In 1861, the tiny island of Ischia joined the forces of Garibaldi and united with the Republic of Italy.

Nine years later, on September 20, 1870, even my tatà tatà (dialect for ‘great grandfather’) enlisted with the troops of Italy’s first king, Vittorio Immanuele II.

Bombing Rome’s gate, Porta Pia, great grandpa and the partisans liberated central Italy from the domain of the Papal States and rebaptized Rome as the nation’s political capital. Alas, Naples and its surrounding islands have been slowly acculturating to the mainstream of Italian peninsular life ever since.

The 19th century laid the foundation of the modern era for menswear, introducing concepts like lounge wear, formal wear, outdoor wear, sportswear, and the tuxedo—but all based on the 3-piece suit. Changes occurred progressively by the decade.

With the new notions of equality from the French Revolution, menswear became less ostentatious and more uniform. Embroideries and lace went out the window. The length of pants dropped to the ankle. Boots became a mainstay. The dandy was conceived.

Double-breasted waist coats featured long tails and high collars. Overcoats were particularly façonnable. Broad shoulders and a narrow waist portrayed a real gentleman. High collar shirts were worn with wide cravats.

Out went the wigs and in came natural hair, just oiled or waxed. Curly hair was prized, as well as sideburns and—later—goatees. Conical hats evolved into the top hat and, soon wide brim hats, bowler hats, and straw boaters were sported.

Eventually the frock coat replaced the tailcoats, which were reserved for formal occasions, while numerous new styles of coats and jackets appeared on the scene. Collars evolved continually, as well as the shape of ties and bow ties. Shoe heels grew in height.

2010 Trends & Takeaways from the period:
Although the tuxedo will not vanish from formal occasions, the most formal look of spring/summer 2010 entails a relaxed version of the dapper debonair dandy with a double-breasted jacket and fedora hat. Like the popularity of boots in this period, boots will be one of the key accessories that add authentic masculinity to the androgynous trends of spring/summer 2010 collections.



Photo top left Vittorio Immanuele II, Copyright Men's Fashion by Francesco.
Photo middle right French Nobleman, Procession Sant'Alessandro, Ischia, Public Domain.
Slideshow Public Domain.

Jonathan Mezibov: Sensibly American with a European Flair

Jonathan Mezibov—sophisticated, modern, sexy, clean, and all about detail!

Born in Livingston, New Jersey, and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, Jonathan received his basic training in a liberal arts program at Tufts University of Medford, Massachusetts.

After graduating from New York Law School, he decided to take a swing at the fashion industry, first, as a design assistant at G-III Apparel Company and, then, as assistant menswear designer at Barry Bricken.

Passionate about the industry, Jonathan Mezibov recently stepped up to bat with his own menswear line, uniquely blending the sensibility of US fashion with the fine tailoring of Europe's best. And he definitely hit a grand slam with his 2009 a/w collection!

Set to the backdrop of the late-Victorian period, Jonathan's collection draws inspiration from Edith Wharton's novel, the Age of Innocence, as he envisions the upper-class man of late 19th-century New York on the streets of Manhattan today!

When asked about throwing such a fashioable curve in contemporary menswear, Jonathan was kind enough to reply:

“As for the Late-Victorian influence, it really fell in line with how I was feeling when I designed the collection: the fabrics, colors and richness of the era, and the idea that men could display their inner peacock a bit more and a growing sense of fashion and consumerism and still feel - and be perceived - as masculine and individuals of substance.

However, I chose to imagine how Newland Archer would dress today precisely because he wasn't the dandy of the book (that was another character, Larry Lefferts). I liked the fact that Newland was an individual of style and class, but not overly preoccupied with trends.

And that's exactly how I'd like my line to be perceived. As good-looking, wearable clothing with a high taste level, that's not overly trend driven but rather will remain fashionable for seasons to come.”

Forward-looking yet retrospective of the past, Jonathan Mezibov clearly approaches contemporary menswear with a refreshed vision of tastefully refined elegance.

Photo top right Jonathan Mezibov.
Slide show 2009 a/w collection Copyright Jonathan Mezibov.