Hyakinth Spring/Summer 2011

Graduating in Fine Arts, Jacek Kłosiński specializes in printing on textiles, about which he writes:

“…I found that I was able to express ideas, stories, and moods more effectively through clothing than ever managed to through art. The challenge of having to overcome the restriction of menswear has motivated me to be a menswear designer. In contrast to women swear, menswear is very much rooted in tradition, in which what is appropriate for a man to wear is clearly defined. My work is very much based on the tension created in the process of testing these limits. A good example is the jacket, a classic men's garment but executed in own designed digital printed textile. I discover the beauty of faulty and damaged things, when people tend to look the other way. This environment's imperfection inspires me to make hand-dyed garment. “

Photographer Lukasz Brzeskiewicz comments: “My work is an attempt to create an emotional and psychological response from the viewer mixing fashion photography with documentary and cinematography style techniques. If I had to say what the work is about, I’d say that it is about what we have inside and what lies beneath our smiling faces.”

Check out the look book here.

Photos Copyright Hyakinth.

Marcin Podsiadlo’s “Urbanist Culture”

It is exciting to come across rising talent like Polish designer Marci Podsiadlo.

Born 1989 in Poland, Marcin studied at the University for the Creative Arts and now resides in London.

Drawing inspiration from urban spaces and hip-hop culture, Marcin’s designs are loose, oversized, and multilayered. Colors span shades from while to black, including grey.

Skillfully combing symmetry with asymmetry, Marcin creates a sportive, masculine silhouette consisting of kurta pants, leggings, and sweat suits.

Emphasizing wearability and functionality, Marcin offers men a new kind of creativity for the “urbanist” type of man.

His latest collection, 2011 spring/summer, was presented at Polish Fashion Week.

Check out the whole collection here.

Photos by Sebastian Szwajczak, Copyright Marcin Podsiadlo.

Pure Realism at Delikatessen

Working hard in his showroom in Amsterdam, Polish designer Andrzej Lisowski takes us back in time at Delikatessen for autumn/winter 2011-12.

His technique is old fashioned as he snaps away at the collection with a traditional camera and flash.

No Photoshop, no touch ups…just a full dose of pure realism.

Lots more photos coming soon! In the meantime, check out these real shots here.
Photos Copyright Delikatessen.

Knights, Mails & Konrad Parol

As I was observing the main photo, which is from Konrad Parol’s 2011 spring/summer collection entitled “Ember,” I began to imagine the dress of medieval solders.

One image that came to mind was the Tapestry of Bayeux, which depicts the Norman Conquest of England in 1066 AD, the embroidered designs of which describe the styles of the time.

Examining carefully Konrad’s design, I detect something called the hauberk—a shirt of mail.

Notably, the hauberk was also worn later in the 17th century by King John II Casimir of Poland, Konrad Parol’s place of origin.

The hauberk was composed of interlocking metal wire, forming a mesh-like shirt of chain that extended to about the knee.

Similar to Konrad’s design, the legs were also wrapped tightly in some sort of protection, typically mail.

During the 11th and 12th centuries in Northern Europe, there was a slit in both front and back of the hauberk, enabling the lancer to mount a horse.

Similar to Konrad’s designs, the 11th-century head piece was typically conical, first appearing as a mail hood known as the mail coir. Later, this head piece evolved into the cervelliere and, then, the bascinet.

The cervelliere was simply a round, close-fitting metal skull cap, which later evolved into the bascinet. The bascinet was a type of conical helmet with flaps of mail that covered the back of the neck and sides of the head.

Interestingly, the mail was invented by the Celts sometime around the 6th-5th centuries BC.

On the contemporary menswear scene, the coat of mail has been appearing increasingly more on runways around the world.

Have a look at the collection here.

Photos Copyright Konrad Parol.
Photo right Tapestry of Bayeux, Public Domain.

Delikatessen

When I hear the word delicatessen, I think of delectable treats that tickle my taste buds! Well, here is another Delikatessen that tickles my fashion buds!

Creative director at Delikatessen, Andrzej Lisowski, comes from a long line of designers, as he was raised in the atelier of his grandmother, who was a blouse designer in the “holy” Polish city of Czestochowa.

Delikatessen is all about emotions and people and the courage that is required for “special” people to accomplish “special” things.

Garments are designed with passion as Andrzej draws inspiration from his heritage.

Deep in reflection about society and its impact on the individual, Andrzej creates designs that are subtle, subjective, and personal.

In the same way an individual relates to a painting, so Andrzej explores the relationship between the consumer and a shirt.

See the entire collection here.

Photos Copyright Delikatessen.

Jacek Kłosiński Speaks about Hyakinth

After posting the most recent article on Polish menswear label, Hyakinth, I decided to write to the designer, Jacek Kłosiński, and ask him a few questions.

“As you know,” he informed me, “I graduated from the Academy of Fine Art in this year.” So, a big congratulations to you!

What about the name?
The name Hyakinth comes from my own name. Jacek in original Greek sounds like Hyakinthos, and this the name belonged to the lover of Apollo.

Tell me about your impressions of this collection…
When I started making this collection, I found that I was able to express ideas, stories , and moods more effectively through clothing than I had ever managed to through art.

He then went on to say:

“The challenge of having to overcome the restriction of menswear has motivated me to be a menswear designer. In contrast to women swear, menswear is very much rooted in tradition: that which is appropriate for a man to wear is clearly defined.

My work is very much based on the tension created in the process of testing these limits. A good example is the jacket, a classic men’s garment but executed in my own designed digital printed textile.

You can find the abstract interpretations of the cosmic space, the Irish Cliffs of Moher and the glacier. Those pictures give the worrying profundity to the textile.

I discovered the beauty of faulty and damaged things when people tend to look the other way. This environment’s imperfection inspires me to make hand-dyed garment.

I’ve v generally used natural fabrics like cotton, satin-cotton, and batiste-cotton. I’ve washed them with chemicals to achieve damage effects. I have also hand-dyed some of the garments (mainly viscose jerseys).

As I said earlier, the textile for jackets was digital printed with my own designs. I have focused on the details inside—contrast yokes or diagonal striped collar stands, color piping, etc. I have also designed my own button with logotype (smile).

I’ve shown my ss11 collection at Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland. The pictures were taken by K.Czarnecka.”

See the catwalk here.

Photos Copyright Hyakinth.

Hyakinth by Jacek Kłosiński

Born in 1985, Jacek Kłosiński is the designer behind the Polish label HYAKINTH.

Jacek graduated n Fine Arts, in Lodz, going on to become a finalist in competitions like Off Fashion, Folk Fashion, Nokia Tends Lab, Jeans Design, and Re-Act Fashion Show.

Jacek maintains a labor intensive and innovative approach to ecological fashion as he specializes in textile printing.

Have a look at more images here.

Photos Copyright Hyakinth.

Ember by Konrad Parol

For spring/summer 2011, Konrad Parol has prepared a collection entitled Ember, which he presented recently at Poland Fashion Week.

When I asked Konrad about the inspiration behind the designs, he replied, “the primary inspiration is people living under ground.”

In response to my inquiry into its relation to the previous collection, he stated, “The common denominator between the two collections—this one EMBER and the previous one REBELS—is a novel by H.G. Wells “The Time Machine.”

“Last time,” says Konrad, “I portrayed a master race; this time in EMBER, I portrayed the race of slaves, who lives underground. These are strong and proud people.”

Have a look at the collection here.

Photos by Lukas Dziewic, Copyright Konrad Paarol.

“Dans un homme je cherche un garçon” by Patryk Szajan Sudzik

“Dans un homme je cherche un garçon” (literally, ‘In a man I look for a young man’) is a new collection by the Polish designer, Patryk Szajan Sudzik.

He uses something called “color breaks,” which are the end-points and mid-points in any spectrum of color. Anything that lies between these color points receive a blend of the break colors.

Patryk defines color breaking as an “unforeseen turnabout in male fashion.” He connects velvet and velour with pelts to give a new image in trends.

Inspired by urban fashion, Patryk uses furs in alluding to the animal instinct in human nature.

Patryk’s breaking takes place in the sunset-inspired color palette. This warm range of color provides gentleness as he emphasizes maleness.

Have a look at the look book here.

Photos Copyright Patryk Szajan Sudzik.

“New Army Model” by Patryk Szajan Sudzik

Fourth largest city in Poland, Wrocław has been a part of many nations, such as Bohemia, Austria, and Germany.

Named after an early ruler, Wrocław dates back 1000 years and has over 15 names, depending on the language. In English, it is known as Breslau.

Now the city is the seat of many corporations, cultural sites, elaborate cathedrals, and amazing architecture.

Nineteen-year-old Polish designer, Patryk Szajan Sudzik, also hails from Wrocław. As a little boy, there, he dreamed of becoming a fashion designer.

Patryk interprets design as bending, destroying, tearing, sewing, dyeing, and finally reaching a unique original form—the means of emotional expression

Undeniably hedonistic, eccentric, and talented, Patryk views fabric as the “worthless and empty carrier of matter,” which becomes the “means of conveying an idea” when it comes into human awareness.

Patryk is inspired by his surroundings: nature, architecture, and art—obvious influences from his childhood hometown.

Minimalist and classic, his designs follow modern yet geometric forms—each collection exuding enthusiasm as it breaks from social norm.

Patryk’s most recent collection is entitled “New Army Model,” which unites militarism with the urban lifestyle, drawing from modern architecture as the inspiration.

View the entire collection here.

Photo Copyright Lukasz Virgins.

A Short Interview with Asia Wysoczynska

After posting yesterday on Asia Wysoczynska, I asked this emerging Polish designer a few questions about herself and her most recent collection.

Tell me, Asia, where you are from…
I’m from Poland, currently living in Warsaw.

What do “fashion” and “design” mean to you?
I believe fashion is a means of communication. Design is an expression of meaning.

You studied Psychology…how has this field shape your perspective?
I graduated from International School of Costume and Fashion Design, in Warsaw, Poland, this year. However, studying psychology before has put me into a perspective different from that of most designers.

What inspires you as a designer?
Everything starts from an idea. When I do know what I would like to say, I start to look for ‘sentences’ that could tell the story. And in the end, it’s all about the Hero of the story, his or her emotions. The aim is to create designs being distinctive and at the same time allowing personality expression.

Finally, your most recent collection “HEroSHE, the Warrior”…
HEroSHE is a luxurious prêt-a-porter collection for the brave. For the city warriors.



Photo & slideshow a/w 2010 collection “HEroSHE, the Warrior, Copyright Asia Wysoczynska.

Asia Wysoczynska Exploring Space, Gender & Time

In a similar way to famous Polish astronomer, Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543), who explored the wonders and beauties of the universe, Polish designer Asia Wysoczynska is exploring the beauties and wonders of the human body.

Two years before graduating with honors from the International School of Costume and Fashion Design, Asia launched her eponymous label in Warsaw, in 2008.

Prior studies include the Psychology of Creativity and Art at Jagiellonian University in Kraków.

Asia’s most recent collection is “HEroSHE, The Warrior,” which narrates a story of hidden beauty and virtues.

Travelling through space, time, and gender, Asia draws her inspiration from the garments of the Samurai, alluding to the imperial dress of the Mikado or tennō—‘the Japanese Emperor’.

Items like the kataginu (bat wing vest) are combined with the hakama (skirt-like pants), creating the look of a kamishimo—the modern equivalent of a Samurai suit!

This 2010 autumn/winter collection is emotive in look , magnetic in feel, and energetic in style...just like its designer!



Photo & slideshow 2010 a/w collection “HEroSHE, The Warrior,” Copyright Asia Wysoczynska.

Sylwester Krupiński at Fashion Week Poland

Recently I posted an article on a Polish menswear designer that had exhibited at Fashion Week Poland, 5-7 May 2010.

Today I would like to introduce you to another Polish designer that exhibited at Fashion Week Poland, Sylwester Krupiński.

Graduate in Textiles and Clothing at the Strzeminski Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz, Poland, Sylwester designs menswear, costumes for theater, and fabric prints.

For Fashion Week Poland 2010, Sylvester prepared a collection based on classic forms mixed with contemporary styles.

Characterized by simple functionality, Sylvester’s designs never neglect a touch of extravagance.

Photos Copyright Sylwester Krupiński.

Polish Designer Konrad Parol & “Rebels”

Poland is a central European country with a population of 38 million inhabitants and a member of the European Union since May 2004.

Poland has also been the birthplace of significant individuals who have influenced Western and Eastern cultures for centuries, such as Pope John Paul II, Nicolaus Copernicus, Frederick Chopin, Roman Polański, and Joseph Conrad.

i was honored to receive an email last week from an emerging designer in Poland that is influencing his world.

Konrad Parol is a Polish designer who is currently living and working in Warsaw (Warszawa)—the capital and largest city of Poland.

So, Konrad, how did you start as a designer?
I don’t remember how it exactly started. I was always manually gifted, but my focus on fashion started in high school. I wanted to create something that combined high-art and everyday art, for people—something that would live its own life and evaluate…

What happened after high school?
After graduating high school, I finished a two year degree at a school that didn’t give me a strong technical background and didn’t really shape my individual style as a designer. While studying at Art Studio, I did a one year internship at the Atelier of Maciej Zien, one of the most famous Polish fashion designers. I also worked as a costume designer for polish music videos.

How did this shape you?
Although I was working in the fashion industry, I had a strong feeling that I could do more, be more creative. I designed two womenswear collections, which were noticed in Poland and Japan. After finishing the internship, I worked for two years as a designer and producer of sport shoes in China and after that I worked as a womenswear designer at a big fashion house in Warsaw.

And now?
I am currently a womenswear designer for a young contemporary polish brand and a creative director at my own company. I have been creating menswear collections for almost a year, what gives me much more satisfaction than womenswear. Moreover, I am the first faithful customer of my own brand, so finally I have no problem with clothes (smile).

Tell me something about your latest collection “Rebels.”
Last collection...I needed something strong and masculine. There`s some post-apocalyptic vision of the new world; last tribe on earth must to survive and restore civilisation again...

Was the goal of the collection to shock?
I don’t want to shock, but I would like to make my collections on the contrary to global views and opinions. I would like to remain a child forever and constantly play with fashion. I don’t want to follow the generally accepted trends or norms, I want to define them…or maybe I want to shock in my own personal way…

Is there something that influences your collections?
I`m always my own inspiration. I`m always looking for what I need at the moment, what`s my biggest desire. More precisely, I am the focal point of everything that surrounds me. Everything depends from a moment, time of the day, my mood. My needs are what’s most important and they are the ones that push me in the right direction and bring me ideas of what to design next. I am also really inspired by the street life, its rhythm and heartbeat .

Can you elaborate on being your own inspiration?
Everything that I create evolves around me or a person like me: a single guy living in a big metropolis who is tired of being predictable and who wants to surprise and be admired... who may inspire others in a positive way.

Do you hold to a particular philosophy?
I believe in the rule „The man comes first, the idea comes second.“ I don’t have to look far to find my inspiration: I always started to listen to my own needs, focus on who I am, what I dream of and how I would like to be understood. My clothes want to amaze and be admired, they want to grab attention and positively inspire the surroundings. I will not invent the wheel, for sure, that is why I always think out of the box. I am trying to give old shapes a totally new life, and meaning.

How about materials and fabrics?
I used a lot of knitwear and all types of jersey. I feel bewitched by jersey: it is very fluid and easy to drape. A big plus is the fact that it is natural, bio-degradable, and consequently environment-friendly, which is very important nowadays.

Any closing words?
Somewhere there's a land that I read when I was little bastard (smile). Somewhere, there's a land that I dreamed about: free land, undiscovered tribe of free men, somewhere there...
Thank you Konrad for contacting me and the best of luck to you in Poland and beyond!



Photo & slideshow, Fashion Week Poland, Copyright Konrad Parol.
Photo: Konrad Ciok / Krzysztof Wyżyński
Model: Filip Jankowski/ AMQ models