Wooyoungmi Fall/Winter 2011-12

This season, Wooyoungmi presents a FW collection that melds luxury and practicality in a subtle yet convincing way.

In overt contrast to a richness of fabrication, elements of outdoor endurance and utility are introduced.

Drawstrings, waterproof zips and elasticated cuffs appear on heavy wool coats, softly tailored trousers and urbane jackets, whilst waterproof trousers are worn elegantly.

Avoiding classic combinations, suiting is layered with drawstring collars, hoods, quilted shells and wind-blockers.

Knitwear is textured and its movement, a nod to that found in nature, is emphasized with a double yarn two-tone effect.

With couture sequins sitting effortlessly amongst over-sized outerwear and rubberized boots, style and function are an effortless pair.

See more images here.

Photos & text Copyright Wooyoungmi, Courtesy Starworks.

Retro, Old World, Vintage…Stills—Wooyoungmi

For autumn/winter 2010 Wooyoungmi fastens her gaze onto the timelessness of the old world resurrecting a retro look captured within vintage shots in black and white.

Photographed by Marton Perlaki, models Matvey Lykov and Johannes Linder star in the collection.

Matvey Lykov was born 1987 in St. Petersburg, Russia, going on to debut at New York Fashion Week twenty years later and walking for some of the world’s top designers.

Johannes Linder was born 1990 in Hamburg, Germany, rising to stardom as he was discovered while walking through the city’s notorious Schanzenviertel area. A fan of German hip-hop and Converse shoes, Johannes too has walked for some of the world’s best.

Born 1959 in Seoul, Korea, where she attended university, Wooyoungmi launched her casual men’s line in 1988, attracting the attention of Korean and European men as she draws a close connection between architecture and clothing.

Her cuts tend to be straight and graphically clean, creating a personal signature of modern simplicity enriched with details.

See the collection here.

Photos & slideshow 2010 a/w collection, Copyright Wooyoungmi.

“Chiaroscuro” by Park Sung Chul

Originating in the Renaissance, Chiaroscuro represents strong contrasts between light (chiaro) and dark (scuro), often affecting the entire composition of a drawing or piece of art.

The term has been further applied to woodcutting, drawing, cinema, photography, and even music—particularly, opera.

One of my favorite artists, who developed a dramatic form of Chiaroscuro, is Caravaggio (1573-1610).

Just as Chiaroscuro is not contained to the Renaissance, nor is it confined to the world of art.

For the 2010 autumn/winter season, Korean designer Park Sung Chul has conceived a collection entitled “Chiaroscuro.”

Drawing inspiration from the masters of Chiaroscuro, the collection is designed to express a new style that is based on “flash-feeling and inspiration” rather than fixed a idea.



Photo & slideshow 2010 autumn/winter collection Copyright Park Sung Chul.

Beyond the Closet with Beyond Closet

Beyond Closet is a relatively new label that was launched in 2008 by Tae Yong Ko of Seoul, Korea.

The label reconstructs classic styles with wit and unique individuality for men who are in the twenties and thirties.

The mainstays of Beyond Closet are the classic suit, check-pattern shirts, and slacks—wearable items that are reinterpreted through a preppy look with cues from military design.

A second line by Beyond Closet is Campaign, which is targeted at the younger male generation who is looking for stylish clothing at affordable prices.

Go beyond your closet with Beyond Closet!



Photo 2010 autumn/winter collection Copyright Beyond Closet.

SIEG FAHRENHEIT—Korean cut, European feel!

In 1973, Park Seong-cheol established a sweater manufacturing company named ShinWon, which exported garments to leading brands in Europe and the US.

Adding several brands, ShinWon launched the menswear label SIEG FAHRENHEIT in 2008, targeting men between the ages of 20 and 35.

SIEG FAHRENHEIT is modern, trendy, clean cut—a European feel with a Korean cut!

Photo & slideshow 2010 s/s collection SIEG FAHRENHEIT.

Nomads, Mongolian Hats & Wooyoungmi

Job instability, modern transportation, globalization, restlessness, adventure—these are only a few causes of geographic mobility, making the contemporary man increasingly more willing to uproot and replant multiple times throughout life as a type of modern-day nomad.

Moreover, runways and catwalks around the world have been reflecting this trend in what I like to call “nomadic-inspired menswear.” Elegant in look and romantic in thought, however, these styles are not just based in fiction: there exist 30-40 million nomads throughout the world today.

Probably the country with the most prevalent nomadic history is Mongolia, whose culture has been influenced by nomadic ways since prehistoric times! Even the clothing, such as the Mongolian hat, has evolved out of conditions and activities that have shaped nomadic life over the centuries.

Considered to be tokens of luck and signs of respect, the Mongolian hat exceeds one hundred in styles. Designed to protect against the wind and cold of the steppe, Mongolian hats indicate social status through their ornaments and embroideries. Some are fashioned with 32 stitches, which symbolize the 32 Mongolian tribes.

In her 2009 a/w collection, Wooyoungmi appeals to contemporary nomads as she draws inspiration from the nomadic heritage of Mongolia, featuring her take on the various styles of the Mongolian hat.

Born 1959 in Seoul, Korea, Wooyoungmi is a graduate of fashion from Seoul University and manages two of her own menswear labels—Solid Homme and Wooyoungmi—which she launched in 1988 and 2002, respectively.

Drawing inspiration also from architecture, Wooyoungmi strives successfully for clean cuts in her menswear designs.



Photo 2009 a/w Paris Collection Copyright Wooyoungmi.
Slideshow 2009 a/wParis Collection Copyright Wooyoungmi.

“I Still Have Butterflies” by Hyun Yeu

Originally from Soeul, Korea, Hyun Yeu studied Business Management at the University of Technology in Sydney, Australia, where he lived for seven years before going on to obtain an additional BA in Fashion Design at Gerrit Reitveld Academy in the Netherlands.

Now based in Rotterdam, Hyun presented his first menswear collection at the Amsterdam International Fashion Week, which was held last week, July 22-26.

Entitled “I Still Have Butterflies,” the 2010 s/s collection conveys the fluttering sensations that we all felt when we first fell in love!

Hyun makes use of soft fabrics and “happy” colors to capture the romantic feelings when falling in love.

Following a 2010 nature motif, his source of inspiration in mastering the fragile textures is the sheer, almost transparent wings of a butterfly!

Do you have butterflies? I still have butterflies...by Hyun Yeu.



Photo Hyun Yeu Copyright Peter Stigter.
Slide show Hyun Yeu 2010 s/s collection “I Still Have Butterflies” Copyright Peter Stigter.

Blue Notch Jeans—Denim with a Soul

If anyone were to earn the title of denimologist, surely it would go to the Korean husband and wife team, Jung Ho Noh and Nara Chu, who embarked on their professional romance with denim in 1996.

Sharing a deep passion, they launched their label, Blue Notch Jeans, in 2007 with their main office in New York City.

Blue Notch approaches denimology with a sense of alchemy, combing the disciplines of philosophy, history, and art with modern chemistry and scientific experimentation.

The love story begins with the highest grades of cotton from Egypt, Cameroon, and Zimbabwe. The fabrics are then produced in Japan, in a factory boasting 115 years of history—the first to combine modern technology with the use of natural indigo dyes.

Washings take place close to the design team in Korea, within a region rich in natural springs, which permit the team to experiment with sophisticated dying techniques. A filtration system has been installed to protect the pristine quality of the natural water.

In the 2009 a/w collection, Blue Notch has introduced 30% linen and cashmere into their denim for a wrinkle-free silhouette with a vintage finishing performed by means of broken needles and a newly developed coating technique.

Blue Notch Jeans—the denim that breathes life!



Photo 2009 a/w collection Copyright Blue Notch Jeans.
Slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Blue Notch Jeans.

Seoul-Searching Menswear with Juun J.

Seoul, Korea, is one of the largest cities in the world with a population of over 10 million inhabitants.

As a major business and financial hub, the city boasts one of the most technically advanced infrastructures in the world. No wonder it is home to so many household-named brands like Samsung, Hyundai, and Kia!

Long known for textile manufacturing and sourcing, Korea developed a ready-to-wear industry in the mid-70’s, which has grown into one of the most vibrant industries, with fashion centers established all throughout the capital.

Fashion-consciousness is on the rise in Seoul, as interest in foreign labels has spiked among young Korean men, who seek creative new ways to differentiate themselves from their peers.

Although the first fashion show was held in 1954, such events were temporarily suspended with the ascension of president Pak Chung-hee in 1961, only to be resumed later with the advent of disposable cash towards the late eighties and early nineties. Now, Seoul Fashion Week takes place twice yearly, featuring both foreign and local talent like menswear designer, Juun J.

After graduating from Seoul's Esmod in 1992, Juun J. started his career as a designer for Chiffons and then as design director for Club Monaco and NIX. He launched his own line “Lone Costume” in 1999, which he has showcased regularly at Seoul Fashion Week, all the while collaborating with other foreign artists from England and Japan.

Juun’s signature is combining classic tailoring with urban streetwear.



Photo top left by Byeonggwan Copyleft Wikipedia.
Slide show 2009 a/w collection Copyright Juun J. provided by Totem Fashion.