Showing posts with label New Zealand fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand fashion. Show all posts

21 Grams—Spring/Summer 2010/11 in New Zealand: “Sicker than your Average Bear”

If it’s hot, hip, sick and twisted; it’s in the summer collection from new tee label 21Grams.

Going places no other brands would dare, 21Grams is the brainchild of the politically incorrect Andrew McCulloch and Shaun Bay.

“We wanted a tee label with prints that pushed the boundaries,” says McCulloch. “We are not into designing the clichéd ‘Kiwi’ prints—maps, tikis etc, because we live here; we don’t need to promote New Zealand every minute of the day,” he says. “So we created our own brand with prints of what others don’t dare to.”

Guns, drugs, sex and psychotic pandas throwing gang signs are featured heavily in this summer’s collection—for those who like their streetwear to be truly on the edge.

The melting TV print is one LSD trip away from liquefying your mind, and the Molotov Mondays tee will show your disdain for the ordinary and mundane in all of our lives.

There are knife toting pirates for punk chic hoes, risky .at caps emblazoned with ‘Live ‘til you die’ sure to get you kicked out of the country club, and the tees come in a range of colours guaranteed to make you stand out from the crowd.

This summer from 21Grams is not for the faint at heart -indeed, in order to don these duds, you will have to be Sicker than the Average Bear.

New Zealand 2010-11 Spring/Summer Series: (Remember, your winter may be Kiwi summer!)
Doosh—Spring/Summer 2010-11 in New Zealand: “Wild at Heart”
Elusiv—Spring/Summer 2010/11 in New Zealand: “Spirit”
Rembrandt—Spring/Summer 2010/11 in New Zealand: “Goldeneye”
Trix & Dandy —Spring/Summer 2010/11 in New Zealand: “Dazed but Not Confused”
Wayward Heir—Spring/Summer 2010/11 in New Zealand: “If I’m Alive, I’m Swinging”

Silverdale—Spring/Summer 2010/11 in New Zealand


Photos 2010-11 s/s collection “Sicker than your Average Bear”Courtesy Coco PR, Copyright 21 Grams.

Kiwi Men, Kiwi Fashion

Contrary to what many may think, Kiwis obtained their nickname from a flightless bird called the kiwi, and not the kiwifruit, otherwise known as the Chinese gooseberry. The word kiwi is of Māori origin, and the bird—unique to New Zealand—is regarded as very special by them.

Towards the end of the 18th century, the flightless kiwi appeared on military badges and, during WWI, on regimental signs. Somewhere about this time, the term was applied to New Zealand soldiers and, then, to all New Zealanders.

Traditionally, New Zealand has been an agricultural-based economy. Although sharply decreased in recent years, the ratio of sheep to New Zealanders is still 9:1. Hence, wool production abounds, making New Zealand the largest producer of crossbred wool, as well as sheep jokes, otherwise known as “ewe-phemisms.”

In my first article on Kiwi fashion, New Zealand: the Men & their Style, Miranda Likeman of COCO PR introduced us to the Kiwi male and his taste of styles. Today she continues to share her expert knowledge about the men’s fashion scene in New Zealand.

What would you say, Miranda, are the major influences on New Zealand menswear?
It would be accurate to say most influence is drawn from overseas when it comes to putting together an outfit for the modern New Zealand male, because we are still developing our claim on the international fashion scene, and as a result of the new technology culture, our consumers tend to look beyond our shores more frequently for inspiration and in search of that special piece that sets him apart from the pack.

What do you mean by “new technology culture?”
As a nation that has emerged relying heavily on its agricultural heritage – the farmer and rural roots from our history still have influence on our casual style. Wool always has been and will no doubt continue to be, along with other natural fibres, a backbone of the Kiwi male’s wardrobe.

What about the influence of pop culture?
The music scene is huge in New Zealand and has an enormous impact on the fashion here. Musicians are often innovators in terms of fashion and are looked up to by the modern male for inspiration on personal style and dress sense. Television presenters are also role models for the more mainstream market and frequently strike a chord with the Kiwi Male in terms of the likability factor.

You mentioned males wanting to be “set apart from the pack...”
On that note, there is a constant dichotomy within the New Zealand male to strike a balance between fitting in with the rest of us and remaining an individual. We like to be noticed but not draw an inordinate amount of attention.

For example?
A simple jeans and tee-shirt outfit may appeal deceptively simple, but on closer inspection will express cultural values and norms constituting a male wardrobe staple, while actually communicating a sense of individuality and carefully constructed style.

Would you call Kiwis and Aussies the same?
In many ways we can be likened to the Australian male. Like close cousins who grew up together, we too developed and blossomed with regards to our respective fashion scenes over the same period of time and retain a close relationship when it comes to what we wear.

What sets them apart?
Of course the like of the Melbourne male has been and will forever indeed remain the ultimate pioneer in terms of male style. He has spawned many a trend and appears yards ahead of the pack. Fair game, too, for in New Zealand; we prefer to remain more low-key and develop our own tangent from the main stream (though still of course only a tangent from the mainstream fashion, not a complete diversion). Also the menswear style in Australia has many more roots in surf culture, whereas in New Zealand it has a far more streety/military style.

To what extent do European styles play a role?
Not so much, the New Zealand male tends to perceive European fashion as at the far end of the metrosexual scale, while they tend to remain at the more conservative end.

...and the US?
If you mean in terms of music (particularly hip-hop) influenced fashion, then yes—in particular the Polynesian male population have affinity with those styles; but not as far as other styles are concerned.

What impact have Asian styles made an impact?
A few brands from Asia (specifically Japan and Singapore) have been introduced into the New Zealand market in recent times and had arguable success. It appeals to a small segment here and specialist stores may stock such brands. We have a high Asian population here that is really the primary target market for Asian designers and styles. Many find them overpriced and tend to opt for the more special pieces, such as a coat or pair of designer jeans over, say, a tee-shirt.

How about in relation to quality?
It can definitely be said we appreciate quality here and are more than willing to pay for it, but there is a benchmark beyond which no qualifying excuse will encourage us to remove the plastic from our wallets.

Photo top right Copyright Elusiv.
Photo center left, kiwi by Kahuroa, Public Domain at Wikipedia.
Photo bottom right by Fneep, Public Domain at Wikipedia.

New Zealand: the Men & their Style

Situated in the southwest Pacific Ocean, New Zealand is an island country that is composed of 2 main land masses and numerous islands.

The indigenous people are the Māori, who arrived from Polynesia in waves between the 9th and 14th centuries. Europeans came in increasing numbers towards the late 18th century. Today’s ratio is about 1:5, respectively.

Apparently, Dutch cartographers named the islands after the Dutch province, Zeeland, which eventually became a British colony. Upon independence, New Zealand went down in history as the first nation to grant women the right to vote!

A third of all New Zealanders live in Auckland, the city of sails, which lies on and around an isthmus with a harbor on each side. As the country’s most cosmopolitan city, Auckland is home to a vibrant fashion center, COCO PR, which seeks to promote and represent some of New Zealand’s most stylish brands of menswear.

Founded in January 2007 by Shideh Olafsson and Miranda Likeman, COCO PR also runs a showroom where clients’ collections are continually on display. This week, I had the wonderful privilege of interviewing Miranda. With a BA in Communications and numerous years of editorial experience in the fashion industry, Miranda is wealth of information on the topic of menswear in New Zealand.

So, Miranda, what can you tell me in general about the men’s fashion scene in New Zealand?
The men’s fashion scene in New Zealand is still developing, so there is a ton of opportunity for persuasion and direction in practically any area, as well as room for extension in a range of categories, though primary formal wear, accessories and occasion wear.

How about in relationship to the world?
The Fashion scene in New Zealand is under immense pressure to develop its own standing in the international fashion scene, and figures like Karen Walker and Trelise Cooper have proven it can be done. We can only wait and see whether a New Zealand menswear line can achieve the same success overseas.

Could you sum up for me the essence of the New Zealand male?
While the New Zealand man is comfortable in his appearance and content in his current style, which tends to be predominantly towards the casual end, he has come a long way in recent times and progress only promises to continue.

What particular characteristic would set him apart?
The New Zealand man still shrewd in his search for apparel –a bargain is an iconic part of kiwi culture and a good deal never goes unnoticed. But in saying that, there are few cost-effective solutions for the New Zealand male currently available and added competition coupled with international influences encourages NZ men to spend money on higher priced items.

New Zealand is a multicultural society… Is there a typical or stereotypical male image?
Because we are such a multicultural nation, it is innately problematic to even begin to define the ‘typical’ New Zealand male; as such a person arguably does not in fact exist. We have so many cultural influences from Europe, China, India, South Africa and more so that the NZ male has a myriad of choices and options with regards to how he wants to dress and where he selects his clothes. As a result, the fashion scene in New Zealand is incredibly diverse.

Photo top right by Duschann, Public Domain at Wikipedia.
Photo by copyright holder Ester Inbar at Wikipedia.