Showing posts with label Japanese fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Japanese fashion. Show all posts

Asia Wysoczynska Exploring Space, Gender & Time

In a similar way to famous Polish astronomer, Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543), who explored the wonders and beauties of the universe, Polish designer Asia Wysoczynska is exploring the beauties and wonders of the human body.

Two years before graduating with honors from the International School of Costume and Fashion Design, Asia launched her eponymous label in Warsaw, in 2008.

Prior studies include the Psychology of Creativity and Art at Jagiellonian University in Kraków.

Asia’s most recent collection is “HEroSHE, The Warrior,” which narrates a story of hidden beauty and virtues.

Travelling through space, time, and gender, Asia draws her inspiration from the garments of the Samurai, alluding to the imperial dress of the Mikado or tennō—‘the Japanese Emperor’.

Items like the kataginu (bat wing vest) are combined with the hakama (skirt-like pants), creating the look of a kamishimo—the modern equivalent of a Samurai suit!

This 2010 autumn/winter collection is emotive in look , magnetic in feel, and energetic in style...just like its designer!



Photo & slideshow 2010 a/w collection “HEroSHE, The Warrior,” Copyright Asia Wysoczynska.

"Bring on the Noise"—It May be Music to Others!

Designer Daisuke Konno of the Japanese label Bring on the Noise likes to compare clothing to precisely that—noise—which can sound either good or bad, depending on the individual’s sense of value. The concept is similar to that of beauty beheld in the eyes of the beholder.

Recently, I have had the wonderful privilege to interview designer Konno and uncover what rings pleasant in his ears:

Nice to meet you Mr. Konno! Where are you from?
I am from the Fujisawa area in Kanagawa prefecture. It’s a very peaceful place and also very close to the ocean.

Can you remember when you first expressed an interest in fashion?
I believe it was in high school when I became interested in fashion.

Have you had any formal training in design?
I have never worked under a famous designer as an assistant or been educated in design or any technical skills as such.

How has that affected your work as a designer?
I believe I am not bound by existing methods, which allows for me to create new and unique things.

What is the most important skill to you as a designer?
I think that the potential for new designs and creations are not about technique but rather the ability to see things from a different angle or a new perspective.

How does that relate practically to your label?
I would like to make Bring on the Noise a brand that incorporates this kind of thought process and would also like for it to play this type of role in the scene.

What inspires you as a designer?
I take inspiration from a variety of things, for example, old photo books, vintage clothing, and fliers you find at musical venues, as well as other things. Anything with a musical element is always inspiring.

How would you sum up your look or style?
The style of Bring on the Noise is generally one with a silhouette that is very tight. This is because I think that style with tighter fits is the most stylish.

How would you describe the menswear scene in Japan?
I think of the Japanese men’s fashion scene to be very diverse. I think that Japanese people with a keen sense for fashion are quite fickle and, as a result, they are very good at combining all kinds of different styles and fashions into one.

Thank you, Konno, for your time!

Well, bring on the noise with the following picture gallery and see how it sounds to you!



Photo & slideshow Copyright Bring on the Noise.

Avoiding Preconceptions with :AVOID

“AVOID: to make a conscious decision to stay away from unwanted people, things, and events.”

This is how the two designers, Inokawa and Kido, define their label, which they launched in 2005 with the goal of portraying “the true nature of clothing with no preconceptions of educational or professional backgrounds, or even the brand name itself.”

Since its inception, the label has produced collections according to thematic concepts like “Youth Glory Days” 1986-89, “New Youth Liberal Attitudes,” and “Squat Life,” each of which reject passivity and reflect an aggressive approach to men’s fashion and design.

For the 2009 a/w collection, however, Inokawa and Kido have decided not to allocate a specific theme. Instead, the collection entitled「NO TITLE. THE ONLY GOOD COLOR」emphasizes detail to new weave and unique coloring, reiterating the original concept that :AVOID is to be enjoyed with no preconceptions.

Designer Inokawa is originally from Niigata, Japan, where he remembers heavy snowfalls in the winter; Kido was born and raised in Tokyo.

I am very pleased to have had the opportunity to interview both designers with the assistance of PR assistant, Kimihiro Higuchi, of Adonust Showroom.

It is a pleasure to meet you both… So tell me, Inokawa, when did you begin designing?
I was 16 years old when I became interested in becoming a designer.

And what led you, Kido, into fashion design?
I began paying attention to fashion when I was 10 years old and, until I was around 18 years old, my primary interests were vintage items. I hoped that, someday, I could have my own vintage store. From there I attended a designers’ college, where through interaction with my classmates I became more interested in designer brands. Post graduation, I worked at a store while working on my own designs.

Inokawa, how does vintage play into your collections?
Our designs have always been influenced from my enthusiasm for vintage items and their construction methods, details, and components, as well as the way they aged over time and wear.

Kido, what is the driving factor behind your designs each season?
Generally speaking, we create men’s clothing, so I like to think up items that can be worn on a daily basis. This design concept can be seen continuously from season to season. As previously mentioned, our designs are heavily influenced by special construction methods and their details, as well as different color palettes, varieties of material, photography, different subcultures, and old record jackets. Our interpretations of all these things give birth to new designs. Recently we have used particular interest in different shades of gray and blue.

How about trends and other influences from pop culture?
We tend to not have any interest in trends. Until now we have been influenced by hardcore punk music and skateboarding, and we continue to find inspiration in these things.

I’m very interested in the men’s fashion scene in Japan…
Inokawa: I tend to think that many of the designs I see in Japan are recreations of old items using similar coloring and details. It is hard to find things with their own unique identities.

Kido: I believe it could be at a point that could be thought of as the beginning of the end. To me, fashion is an expression of individuality: to be different from your peers and to be able to feel good about oneself, as a result. However, the current scene lacks energy, as most people are consuming the same types of items, rooted in the desire to fit in. I feel that many are worried too much about not fitting in or being accepted.

So, in what way does :AVOID play a role in this situation?
If there were 100 people, what we do may not be understood or accepted by everybody, but I feel there is no meaning in designing if we are to make the same things as others. As we previously touched upon, fashion to us is an expression of individuality. We would like to make things that people can appreciate or be satisfied with, even if it only applies to a small number of people. We would also like to be able to pass this feeling of fashion consciousness down to the next generation.

How would you sum up this fashion consciousness in terms of your specific style or look?
All our designs come together through the use of uniquely fine colors distinct to our brand and, in the less visible sense, solid construction, along with the use of better materials and components. We hope to make things that can be perceived differently and be appreciated by peers in our industry.

Thank you Inokawa and Kido for your time!



Photo right Inokawa Copyright :AVOID.
Photo left Kido Copyright :AVOID.
Slideshow 2009 a/w collection「NO TITLE. THE ONLY GOOD COLOR」Copyright :AVOID.

Pitti Uomo’s 14 New Beats: Yoshiyuki Ogata

Japanese menswear designer, Yoshiyuki Ogata, numbered among the 14 new beats chosen by Pitti Uomo.

Although Yoshiyuki is not totally new on the international fashion scene, he is definitely a rising star, reaching the shelves of boutiques in London and Los Angeles.

Yoshiyuki derives his inspiration from the Sengoku era (1467-1617) in Japan—the Warring States Period—when Japanese men wore culotte-like trousers with sleeveless-sideless vests and broad sleeve coats.

Yoshiyuki also models his shoes after tabi, which were the socks that split, or divided, between the big toe and the four smaller ones.

Yoshiyuki’s claim to fame was his award-winning outfit that he designed for Japanese model, Kurara Chibana—first runner-up of Miss Universe 2006—who sported the best national costume, which Yoshiyuki fashioned in the samurai-ninja style.

Yoshiyuki’s aim in menswear is to establish the unique masculinity of the true Japanese.



Photo top right by Clngre, Public Domain at Wikipedia.
Slideshow 2009 s/s collection Copyright Yoshiyuki Corporation.