Scabal Spring/Summer 2011 Trends

Brighter Colors Are Back
“Last summer, the British was back and it looks like they’re here to stay for a while” muses Olivier Vander Slock, Sales & Product Director at Scabal, on the styles we will see in 2011.

“But although the British style is classic, traditional, rather formal, our collections radiate summer colours and freshness.”

The slim look stays with us, with short jackets and unpleated trousers.

“The slim look will be nicely presented again this year by the false three-button jacket,” affirms Olivier.

“The wearer has three buttons but displays only two, thanks to the rolling lapel that covers the top button and gives a firm line down towards the waist—accentuating the slim, elegant look.”

Have a look at more photos here.
Photo Copyright Scabal.

Scabal: Not Just Fine Fabrics

Founded 1938 in Brussels by Otto Hertz, Scabal was originally a cloth merchant and supplier of fabrics. His successor is JP Thissen, Chairman Scabal Group, who is assisted by his son Gregor Thissen (CEO Scabal Group), the third generation.

In 1938, Scabal had just 6 employees; today Scabal employs approximately 600 staff worldwide. Over the years, Scabal has evolved from a simple supplier of fabrics into a supplier of top quality fabrics to the most prestigious tailors and textile businesses around the world.

It has also become a designer and manufacturer of the finest ready-to-wear menswear and personalized made-to-measure clothing, allowing their customers to perfect the art of self-expression through their clothing.

Scabal pioneered the made-to-measure concept some 25 years ago and is still one of the leading companies in personalized made-to-measure garments. It has also remained true to its roots and is one of the most innovative developers of new fabrics, creating new fabric qualities year after year, such as Gold Treasure, Diamond Chip, Temptation, Lapis Lazuli, Summit, Private Line. In this regard, Scabal is constantly engaged in research for ever finer and more luxurious fibers and fabric qualities.

In 1996, Scabal launched an accessory line, an exclusive range of items including shirts, ties, knitwear and belts so that its customers can look a 'Gentleman' from head to toe.

The accessories are made in Italy by the best craftsmen and, like the fabrics, are produced using materials of the finest quality.

Scabal never ceases in its quest to refine its products further and to offer top-level quality and service!

Photo Copyright Scabal.

Kris Van Assche & Eastpak

Moving towards a new silhouette where the suit, symbol of maturity, makes the codes of cool its own.

A fusion between raw elegance and more sophisticated pieces.

The tailored sweat-shirt reigns supreme, revisited, cut in woolen sheets, knitwear is refined.

Excessive volume on top with oversized sleeves.

Legs are straight and loose.

The palette is dark, down to the essentials.

A few shafts of natural color on a thin belt or on the welt of a shoe create a crossroads where street meets luxury.

A finale of caramel marbled wool highlighting the importance of details and the work accomplished on raw edges and volume.

Created in association with Eastpak, the bags are the perfect blend between pragmatism, structure and elegance.

See the entire collection at Paris Fashion Week here.

Photo autumn/winter 2011 collection, Copyright Kris Van Assche.

n.d.c. “Sunday Mississippi”

The “Sunday Mississippi" of n.d.c. is a limited-edition shoe made for the “Cabinet of Curiosities” by Thomas Erber and to be presented from 29 November to 31 December 2010.

Inspired by the working class of the 1920s, the godillot[i] (combat boot) “Sunday Mississippi” is manufactured with the greatest respect for tradition by the finest craftsmen in Europe—experts in handcrafted shoes.

Mounted on a traditional construction Blake, the shoe combines the strength of calf leather as shown here in a range of khaki and brown to the refined exoticism of vintage alligator skin.

The patinated, aged aspect of n.d.c collections results from a process of manufacturing, which brings the brand special care.

The shoes are first soaked in an infusion of bark, minerals, and other natural ingredients and, then, are washed with natural soap and dried slowly before being coated with a balm specially designed by n.d.c. to give them an “already-made” appearance

Check out the boot here.

Photos Copyright n.d.c., Courtesy of Pressing.

[i] In the 19th century, Alexis Godillot manufactured military boots, and up until WWII the godillot was the military boot.

“Bords de Mer” by MoutonCollet

“Bords de Mer” (‘Edges by the Sea’) is the recent collection of jewelry by Matthieu Mouton and Nicolas Collet of MoutonCollet.

The collection reconstructs the modern masculine identity from legendary heraldic knights and epic adventures by sea.

Symbols include classic cavalry fashioned into nail-shaped pendants.

Friends from childhood, Matthieu and Nicolas are based in Brussels, Belgium, with a studio in Paris.

Photos Copyright MoutonCollet.

The Raw Eaesthetics of Kris Van Assche

Born 1976 in Belgium, Kris Van Assche is said to have “created a refined world of nonchalant elegance”—very present in his 2011 spring/summer collection, in which he balances nostalgia of the past with a flair of radical modernism.

After having graduated from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, in 1998 Chris moved to Paris where he worked for Yves Saint Laurent and Dior Homme.

Two years after he began presenting his own creations, he launched his eponymous label in 2007.

Now, allow Kris Van Assche introduce you to his 2011 spring/summer collection:

The raw aesthetics of tired, dirty, worn out outfits.
Like an Avedon portrait, a direct look and a naked truth against a white background.
From the deepest black to dusty grey, everything seems to have an ashen hue
That tells the beauty of faded tints and hands at work.
Contrasting stains as its climax.
Suits are everywhere, without restraint and definitely freed from their shackles. Light, creased, sleeves are rolled up to be able to work.
Raw edges for the trousers and repaired waistcoats.
Shirts used as overalls and sweatshirts belong.
Tool belts and safety shoes.
Work clothes diverted from their original use.

Photo & slide show spring/summer 2011 collection, backstage, Copyright Kris Van Assche.

Walter Van Beirendonck + Chris&Tibor Collaboration Bags

In January of this year, I introduced you to the collaboration between Walter Van Bereindonck and Chris&Tibor, who just sent me their latest press release:

Thursday June 25th at 2pm saw the Walter Van Bereindonck show hit the Bataclan in Paris’ trendy 11th district for Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011.

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As our second season collaborating with Walter, this year’s collection is bigger, better, and crazier…featuring the larger than life tiger and crocodile backpacks as big hits on the runway as well as the robot backpack.

Further to these, the new Spring Summer 2011 collection includes the tiger and hope belt bags, the nylon W gym bag, the ‘Read my W skin’ side bag and leather belts, the W side bag and leather harnesses—available in a variety of checked fabrics too—the W laptop case, in a choice of leather, croc leather or nylon and a case for the ‘au courant’ Apple iPad in black leather or nylon.

Lastly the not to be forgotten leather ‘W’ wash bag.

The colour range this year is red, green, white and black with the additional checked range.

For you eager beavers we have decided to repeat last season’s successful 2 weeks pre-order option, available on our online shop from the next week and following this the collection will be stocked in the world’s most coveted couture boutiques and department stores from January 2011.

Please note Walter Van Beirendonck + Chris&Tibor first collaboration AW 2010-11 is in stores soon.

Available online at shop.christibor.com.



Photos 2011 s/s collection & text Courtesy and Copyright Chris&Tibor.

Raf Simons Snake T-Shirt

I’m sure that many of us have heard the song before: “She said, ‘I don't like spiders and snakes…’”

But here is a snake that we are going to love—the Raf Simons Snake T-Shirt.

Instead of snakeskin, the tee is made of ultra-light translucent materials.

The item is from the Raf Simons 2010 spring/summer collection and available at Oki-Ni.

Born in 1968, Raf Simons is a Belgian designer who, after studying Industrial Design, began designing menswear clothing in 1995.

Influenced by youth culture, Raf Simons elegantly captures the male body as if progressing from a young boy to a mature man.

Photo Courtesy and Copyright Oki-Ni.

Walter Van Beirendonck + Chris&Tibor: Collaboration Bags

Last year I introduced you to two London-based designers who design luxury bags and accessories: Chris & Tibor. We learned that Chris Liu graduated from the London College of Fashion, while Tibor Matyas studied art management and marketing.

For the autumn/winter collection of 2010-11, Chris & Tibor have collaborated with trendsetting designer Walter Van Beirendonck in a new line of messenger bags, belt bags, backpacks, and avant-garde clothing.

Born 1957 in Brecht, Belgium, Walter studied Fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. His designs derive inspiration from art, music, and literature—combined with a mix of ethnic and nature influences. He portrays humor with the color red and safe sex with the wink of an eye!

While Chris & Tibor contributed the bags, Walter has provided a collection of garments entitled Take a W-Ride, which rises from tension—the state of opposing forces, which result in mental or emotional strain.

Take a W-Ride alludes to the opposites in the world today, such as love and hate, as well as economic turmoil, political instability, and the high-anxiety producing tension within the fashion industry.

Although Chris & Tibor and Walter Van Beirendonck debuted their a/w 2010 collection from 22-26 January in Paris, I am pleased to present you with the latest image gallery!



Bags within the photo & slideshow Copyright Chris & Tibor.
Clothing Copyright Walter Van Beirendonck.

n.d.c. made by hand—Classic Shoes for Durable Comfort

Belgium-based n.d.c. made by hand was founded in 2001 by two friends, who share a mutual passion for shoes.

Arnaud Zannier, who manages administration and sales, found his start in the family business as the marketing manager for Kickers. Enrique Corbi, who is of Spanish origin, studied at the School of Fashion and Textiles, at the Royal College of Art in London.

Together, Arnaud and Enrique have stitched their philosophy into the very fabric of their brand's name, Nom de Code, which translates as ‘code name’. Hence, instead of fleeting trends, their designs pursue the enduring attributes of style, class, personality, and grace.

As for their label's reputation, they have built it upon 4 uncompromising pillars: 1) simplicity expressed in subtle individualism; 2) quality provided by the best tanneries and materials; 3) originality—each shoe is a work of art; and 4) construction, blending comfort with durability.

The men’s line comprises a collection of footwear, bags, wallets, and other accessories, including the following models:

Barchetta is the classic shoe, now available with a rubber outsole.

Goodyear Welted is a simple, classic shoe inspired by the 1920’s worker. Of a strong English construction from Northampton, the shoe employs full-grain Italian calf leather.

Chantier represents the most popular shape, inspired by the 1940’s working class and constructed with a heavy-duty rubber outsole to endure the bitter wintry months.

Hackney Montsole derives its inspiration from the old-time mountaineering and army boots, applying a rare double-stitched Blake to prevent the entry of water.

Bohemia is the classic “smart” shoe for the “smart” man.

Ladykiller incorporates anarchic and non-conformist methods in the construction of footwear, producing a seductive shine that can woe the most unyielding of ladies anywhere.

Winter Moccasin finds insriation in the colonial explorers, as well as in WWII mountain boot construction and Africa. Made with Castoro leather, they are stitched with a commando heavy-duty rubber, combing comfort with durability.

Finally, soft and smooth to the touch, the Romeo model is available in python, lizard, and ostrich “Buttero” (literally, the ‘Italian cowboy from Tuscany’).



Slideshow Copyright n.d.c. made by hand.
Photo top right Copryright n.d.c. made by hand.

MoutonCollet: Sometimes Silence is Silver

The Belgian countryside is a peaceful setting, abounding in plowed fields, farm animals, and greener than green vegetation.

When I lived and worked in Brussels for a year several years ago, I used to ride my bicycle for kilometers, far outside the bustling city and deep into the still countryside.

It is this memorable world of Belgium’s farmlands that two Belgian designers, Matthieu Mouton and Nicolas Collet, have captured in their very androgynous line of jewelry.

Matthieu, 28, and Nicolas, 29, have been friends since childhood, launching their line of jewelry just three years ago.

Based in Belgium with a studio in Paris, MoutonCollet is ironic, paradoxical, and stylishly whimsical, showing that silence is not merely golden but can be silver as well!



Photo top left Copyright MoutonCollet.
Slideshow Copyright MoutonCollet.

Veronique Branquinho & the Antwerp Six...or Seven?

Antwerp is a vivacious city located in the northernmost province of Flanders, the Flemish region of Belgium. Graced with centuries-old buildings, museums, art galleries, cafés, pedestrian malls, and great breweries, Antwerp is commonly known for its busy harbor, which ranks second in Europe.

I lived in Belgium for a little less than a year handling some projects that the European Commission had outsourced to me. What I learned at that time is that Belgium has become a breeding ground for world-renowned designers. We have all heard of Raf Simons and Liz Claiborne!

I also discovered that Belgian designers are unalike, the sole unifying factor being their individuality—they all do their own thing. But most interestingly, I received living proof that Antwerp is a major fashion capital.

The city is home to the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, which was founded by a painter in 1663, immediately attractiing numerous other painters from around Europe, including Vincent Van Gogh. Then after three hundred years of its founding, Fashion Design was added to the program.

It was not long until the Academy rose to international fashion fame upon the graduation of the “Antwerp Six” in 1980 and 1981. Among their ranks were Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dries van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, and Marina Yee.

Since that generation, the Academy has not ceased producing newfound talent, such as Belgian designer Veronique Branquinho.

Born 1973 in Vilvoorde, just outside Bruxelles, Veronique graduated from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1995, going on to debut her women’s collection only two years later.

Adding her menswear line in 2003, Veronique has been based in the nation’s fashion capital—Antwerp.

Sadly, however, Men.Style has just announced that Veronique will be closing her "namesake house. Meanwhile, she has been appointed as creative director for Delvaux.

Photo by Deeptrivia, Public Domain at Wikipedia.
Slide show from Totem Fashion, 2009 s/s collection Copyright Veronique Branquinho.