The Perfect Fit with The Perfect Tangent

At the Capsule Show in New York City last week, I had the wonderful pleasure of being introduced to Hong Kong designer Pak Man Lee (“Pac”) of The Perfect Tangent, which he launched in 2009.

While the line is utilitarian in nature, each garment is based on the “Golden Ratio Fit,” which is this designer’s pursuit of the perfect, timeless fit.

“The reasoning behind Pac’s investigation stems from the movie “Pi,” which he saw in 1998:

“Mathematics are the Language of Nature. Everything around those can be represented and understood through Numbers. If you graph the Numbers at any system, Patterns emerged. Therefore, there are patterns everywhere in nature.”

The Golden Ratio Fit is based on the famous painting, the Vitruvian Man, which Leonardo da Vinci pained in 1487 as a study on human proportions that Roman writer Marcus Vitruvius Pollio had described centuries earlier (photo top).

Designer Pac develops this notion with the “Fibonacci Sequence” of numbers, which is named after Leonardo Fibonacci of Pisa and dates back to ancient India.

The higher up the sequence, the closer the algorithm approaches the golden ratio. The following image features chest width and the Fibonacci Sequence.

Pac then translates the Fibonacci Sequence into the Golden Ratio Fit with a shirt.

The designer then offers various cuts by compromising different body shapes, as he slims the body by skimming a continuous tangent along the side of the torso.

Finally, on this premise the designer explores assorted styles and cuts for his collections in menswear.

Okay, I admit. The concept goes a bit over my head too. But the end result is more than comprehensible: timeless designs that are unique to the industry.

See the look book here.

Photos Copyright The Perfect Tangent.

Rene Gurskov “Quiet Days in Clichy” for Spring/Summer 2011

Danish designer Rene Gurskov has just released his new 2011 spring/summer collection!

The title of the collection is “Quiet days in Clichy,” which is taken from American writer Henry Millers’ novel from 1956.

In the novel, Millers writes about the Bohemian life of an artist in place de la Clichy, Paris.

For the collection, therefore, Rene envisions an American writer and student going to Paris for the first time…

Rene takes from what he considers the best part of America; that is, “the freshness, the energy, the bright smile, and the lust for adventure,” about which Rene continues to write:

“The Americano mixed with old world decadence–Paris–place de la Clichy with its extreme mix of people and cultures.

X-rated clubs, Europe cheapest shops, loud women that are not always female, food from every hidden corner of the world, and the fabric stores...

An area where a sweet American can easily lose his focus!

In the collection, there is a mix of both worlds plus glimpses of most worlds.

A piece of stars and stripes remixed by Venezuelan art director Char Alfonzo in New York, mesh sweaters with an African stripe designed in Denmark.

Items are skirt like pants; linen jackets tied together, asymmetric tees, bowling shirts, boxer shorts and the biggest track pants. Enough pieces to dress up and be anything but quiet!”

Rene completes the look with paper glasses from Hong Kong designer Ron Wan.

See the collection here.



Photo & slideshow 2011 s/s collection, Copyright Incircus.

The Fragrant Hands of John Rocha

The Irish proverb, Molann an obair an fear, declares that a man's praise is measured by his work. So according to the Irish, John Rocha deserves a standing ovation for his accomplishments in nearly every field of design—and more.

Born in Hong Kong of Portuguese and Chinese descent, educated in London's Croydon School of Art, and rooted in the capital of Ireland, John Rocha has managed to incarnate himself in each design field that he undertakes.

In 1997, John introduced his first work in a medium outside fabrics when he launched the John Rocha at Waterford Crystal Collection. Simple cuts and unconventional practicality radiated his sense of mystery and geometric purity, immediately sparking worldwide acclamation.

Fashioned after his city of origin, John's 1999 architectural design of the Morrison Hotel engineered a luxurious haven where East meets West. Since then, John has continued to grace other cities throughout Europe with exclusive commercial and residential projects and interior design.

Inspired by an assortment of influences, in July of 2002 John launched a collection of nature inspired jewelry that marries the ruggedness of Irish cliffs and Celtic shapes with the gracefulness and sensual sweeps of Chinese brushstrokes.

In October of 2002, John published Texture, Form, Purity, Detail—an illustrated hard-cover book that reveals the philosophy of his designs, chronologically narrating his progression of working with one medium after another.

John launched his line of menswear in 2007 at Pitti Immagine Uomo in Italy. Wedding classic tailoring to modern styles, John's collection of natural fibres and rich textures struck a romantic cord of nostalgia in the hearts of the eager spectators.

Later that year, the doors of John Rocha's first flagship store opened at 15a Dover Street in London, where he showcases his designer collections from every field, including art, sculpture, jewelry, apparel, books, and more.

Years ago when I lived and worked in the "fragrant harbor" of Hong Kong, I had the opportunity to learn some Cantonese. There exists a saying 花香總是會留在送花人的手中, which states, "Flowers leave their fragrance on the hands that bestow them. Likewise, the hands of John Rocha emanate the fragrance of his manifold designs that he continues to bestow upon us.

Photos 2009 a/w collection Copyright by John Rocha.

John Rocha's Fragrant Harmony

Like his ever-expanding portfolio of designer collections, John Rocha is an exotic mixture of Chinese and Portuguese descent. Born in Hong Kong, John was raised in a "fragrant harbor" where East meets West on a daily basis. As traditional society mingles with a booming cosmopolitan center, so the city's sprawling skyline harmonizes with its natural setting.

John decided to study fashion in the 1970's and, thus, moved to London. As he was experimenting with Irish linens for his graduate collection, John visited Ireland, where he has resided with his wife Odette for the past 20 years. Besides working with fine fabrics, John's portfolio has expanded to embrace crystal, jewelry, architecture, lighting, and interior design.

Similar to his fragrant city of origin, John's creations are a crossroads of the graceful flowing strokes in Chinese calligraphy and the simple clean lines of Irish patterns. Brilliantly harmonizing contemporary styles with classic traditions, John strikes a dramatic balance between texture, form, and detail—regardless of the medium.

Twelve years after winning the prestigious title British Designer of the Year in 1994, the Queen of England bestowed upon John Commander of the British Empire for his manifold contributions to the fashion industry.

As you visit John's sprawling portfolio of creative works, allow yourself to savor the eclectic aromas of his harmony, gracefulness, and purity by clicking here.

Stay tuned for another article on John Rocha's exciting life and career in the world of design!

Photos 2009 a/w collection Copyright by John Rocha.