Showing posts with label Griffin Studio. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Griffin Studio. Show all posts

Griffin Spring/Summer 2011: Core Items

Technology stands at the forefront of this collection which is best shown in the ‘Technical Bearskin’. This design originates from a style we became famed for in the mid 90’s, the Bearskin was a coat that featured side seam zips and when opened up and laid flat replicated the shape of the skin of a bear.

The development for the Technical Bearskin began over four years ago, but it is only now we have the appropriate technology to achieve the garment we wanted. Articulated to fit the body, this jacket is finished with waterproof taped zips along the side seams and underarms, which can be opened as pit zips for ventilation, or fully unzipped to open flat into the Griffin Bearskin shape.

On a technical note, this jacket is kitted out with all the essentials; including 4 front pockets with bonded waterproof zips, a double storm flap on the front with a stand collar and concealed hood, plus the sleeves and back panel are fitted with volume adjusters. This style is available in two Limited Edition colour options; all over black or Finnish Digi Camouflage, both featuring a 3 layer high tech waterproof fabric from Italian mill Limonta.

Although bonding technical man-made fabrics to each other is a technique used by many outdoorwear sports brands, what we have done is bonded a natural fiber cotton/poly mix with a synthetic 3 layer black Limonta fabric making the construction behind this piece really special.

The ‘Dartmouth jacket’ returns this season but with an entirely new look. Featured as part of the tradition meets technology range that combines traditional fabrics and heritage silhouettes, with new technologies and innovative techniques. The Dartmouth is a short jacket designed with front bellow pockets which have been bonded to give a modern take on the style’s vintage counterpart which was traditionally re-enforced with canvas, we have used a high-tec bonding technique which is a great example of the new technology applied to the making of this garment. Another example of this can be found in the design of the pit holes which are used for ventilation, instead of the tradtional eyeletting technique we have laser cut and bonded these holes, the front slant pockets have also received the same treatment, giving a sleek laser cut finish to the front of the jacket. This style is fully reversible and the pitched sleeves have been finished with adjustable reversible cuff tabs, a detail that came from an original reversible 1950’s snow smock. The style is available in two different greyscale colour options, black with white paper-like nylons from Italian mill Limonta and a black wax-like coated nylon with Grey B-Bridge coated Nylon.

The ‘Reversible Pocket Parka’ is a style that has evolved from the reversible Snow Bearskin coat from the Autumn/Winter 10 collection. The design was originally inspired by the U.S. Military Parka, a fantastic shape and Griffin Military favourite. Lengthened and finished with a true parka style fishtail hem, we have worked more volume into this A-line silhouette - even more than last season. This dramatic shaping adds a great swing to the back of the coat and the extra volume drops the shoulders into the uniquely constructed sleeves, featuring double tuck details either side of the elbow and articulated panelling to give volume to the sleeve whilst retaining an accurate fit, plus the cuffs are fully adjustable - featuring an elasticated and button-fastened, reversible adjuster. A lot of time has been spent perfecting the reversibility of this coat, ensuring either side offers a distinct look. As a result we have used the dominating palette of black and white and alternate pocket designs on either side. Working with paper like fabrics from Italian mill Limonta this style is available in luxurious white on one side and classic black on the other.

The ‘Imber’ is a semi-tailored jacket featuring hunting style pockets and two large flap pockets running from the front of the jacket around the side. The collar is styled with a military tab and all seams have been double stitched giving a clean finish on both the outside and inside of the jacket. This season we have stitched into the cotton fabric, leaving short loose threads on the surface giving the jacket a very distinct look. The distinctive plastic spray dyw effect has been applied to this garment, this spray paint technique is applied after the jacket has been manufactured so the back of the fabric and hidden areas, such as underneath the pocket flaps are left undyed. This hand applied technique not only introduces a new touch, it means every jacket is completely unique. The style is also available in plain black and white.

The ‘Technical Softshell’ jacket continues to merge the line between tradition and technology with three new fabrications including Finnish Digi Camouflage, White and Black all mixed with the technical softshell base fabric. This style offers a fitted yet flexibile fit and a clean, sleek finish as all the body panel seams are bonded together instead of stitched. The shape is ergonomically designed for plenty of movement with an off centre waterproof taped zip, featuring engineered sleeves with piped seams in camo. The softshell is fitted with a slanted laser cut chest pocket with a taped zip. The sculpted hood has piping details and features a rounded nose piece for smog protection. Manufactured in Italy to the highest quality - a true example of technology working with tradition.

Trousers & Shorts
The ‘Thai Pant’ was first re-introduced last season after it’s initial development over 10 years ago. Last season, like the first time around, the style was a sell out success for our Japanese stockists. The design is a unique cross between a snow pant and traditional Thai trouser, with a lot of room in the seat and a low slung crotch and gusset. The trouser has a banana seam detail running down the front of the leg for a greater shape and darted at the back to create a sculptured leg. A great silhouette with a lot of volume, this casual pant is available in a range of six colours overdyed on lightweight Italian Cotton fabric. The ‘Technical Thai Pant’ is the sister style and features front and back bonded, waterproof, zips adding a high tech finish to the overall look. The Technical Thai Pant is available in Finnish Digi Camouflage and Swedish Camouflage for the Spring/Summer 11 season. This pant looks fantastic teamed with our new range of sweats or the pocket parka coat.

The ‘USMC trouser’ is a style we have developed for a number of years and after a series of requests from customers and buyers we are reintroducing the pant. First developed from a 1945 boiler suit the USMC trouser is a wide leg pant with a low slung crotch. Fitted with large combat pockets and adjustable tabs at the hem these trousers offer a really comfortable fit. This season the USMC is available in all seasonal colours and two cotton fabric options. As a more commercial alternative the ‘Hanoi Pant’ is the sister style to this pant, designed with a slightly raised crotch and slimmer leg, this style is also available in a range of overdyed cottons.

The ‘Archback trouser’ is an iconic Griffin style and was originally developed from a vintage climbing trouser. With ergonomically designed legs and darted knees, the fit is slimmer this season with a low slung crotch. The archback panel is of course the pant’s most distinctive detail and a feature we can only achieve due to the flexibility of our great Italian factory. Traditionally a coat manufacturer, our factory has the ability to be more creative in the make than a traditional trouser manufacturer by using the finishes and detailing found in outerwear on our trouser range. The Archback style this season is available in the full seasonal range of colours overdyed in a great quality mid-weight cotton fabric.

The ‘Flying Pant’ is a heritage Griffin style developed from original military Para uniforms, the most distinctive styling detail being the darted knee patchs used originally to re-enforce the pant. This season Jeff wanted to rework this design as a track pant, working in a cotton instead of a sweat and adding the ribbed cuffs and a detailed, easticated waistband. The design is available in all 6 seasonal colours, the overdying affect has taken incredibly well to this fabric giving a really rich coverage.

The ’USMC Short’ offers all the great features that its long-legged brother has; combat pockets, low slung crotch and wide loose fit. This season we have developed two lengths, first the standard length finishing at the knee, this design is available in Finnish Digi Camo as well as 6 colour options in Italian cotton. The second design is the adequately named the USMC ‘big’ short which is designed in a longer leg as a three-quarter length that finishes mid-calf. This style is available in a selection of Camouflages including Wetland and Swedish as well as a range of colours from the seasonal colour palette.

Sweats & Jerseys
This season we bring you our most extensive range of sweats and jerseys yet. All produced in Italy, the range includes a selection of silk and cotton jerseys as well as 4 sweats including a ‘Technical crew sweat’ which features waterproof taped front zip pockets and diagonal front panelling. Offering a similar look, the ‘Bomb-Her Jacket’, a zip through track design features laser cut pockets finished with a black bonded trim and available in a selection of contrasting B & W and khaki colour combinations. The Jersey Parka is a new piece for the season made from a double jersey. Along with the the large oversized sleeves and adjustable hem, this high quality Italian cotton is super soft, making it a really easy piece to just throw on. The ‘Hooded Button Sweat’ returns this season, available in the same supersoft double jersey as the parka. Popular details such as the laser cut pocket and contrasting black cotton lining in the hood remain, however the hooded design has been refreshed for a superior fit.

Shirts
We have two new shirt designs for the Spring/Summer season. The first is the cowboy shirt which is a modern take on the traditional country shirt, featuring signature Griffin cotnrast paneling and laser cut pockets. The second design is the bellow shirt, this distinctive design features two gathered bellow pockets on the chest. The shirt is darted offering slim fit and features a traditional button fastening with a slim collar. The design is available in four fabric options including two silks and two cottons in a range of colours.

Manufacturing
Our passion for quality manufaturing keeps growing. For the past 17 years we have been manufacturing our collections in some of Italy’s finest factories, which has enabled us to work very closely with our manufacturer, investing time into innovation and experimentation of emerging garment technologies to fulfil their creative potential. We recognise the future for Griffin lies in Technology and how it can be applied or shaped in the context of clothing. Griffin still firmly supports Italian manufacturing because of the high quality and skills of the factories and fabric mills. Based in the valleys of the Alps, the factory and it’s employees carry a passion that is very Italian - they are great at what they do, and proud of the garments they produce. As well as the Griffin brand the factory also manufactures many luxury brands including Dries Van Notten, Missoni, Dior and Armani.

We still try to work as close to home as possible, maximising on the skills available in the UK to support our local industry. Self sufficiency is an important part of the Griffin family values which Jeff would eventually like to expand out through the collection by rearing our own sheep and eventually produce our own wool. Although price is important our ethical morals and beliefs come first, which is why we are asking our customers to invest in quality clothing.

See more core items here.

Photos & text Copyright Griffin.

Griffin Spring/Summer 11 Collection: Inspiration & Colour range

The spring/summer 11 collection looks back to 1985 and the Katherine Hamnett era of baggy, oversized silhouettes and plenty of military detailing as a major source of inspiration for this season’s collection. Whilst we continue our delve into the Griffin archive to reference our classic, heritage garments like the Dartmouth and Imber jackets, we have experiemented with new technologies and dyeing techniques to create fresh and innovative detailing. The mixing of bold and oversized features, laser cut welts and bonded faux leather seams has resulted in a performance meets fashion hybrid.

The colour palette is a mix of high contrast in black and white alongside a tonal DPM range of military green and sand, complimented with an electric blue as a highlight. Desert Finnish DPM returns as the dominant camouflage with Swedish camouflage featured in a couple of pant and short styles as well. Working closely with our Italian dye factory we have created a spray paint effect across a number of styles to give a worn, plastic look to the natural fabrics. The sprayed dye colours only the outer shell, leaving areas such as undersides of pocket flaps and cuffs undyed. The effect subtly draws together the two contrasting base fabrics which include a mix of rich cottons and luxurious silks through to 3 layer technical waterproofs.

Running alongside the dramatic sihouettes of spring/summer 11 is our integration of locally sourced high-quality materials and new technology, making this collection more functional and relevent to today’s lifestyle than ever before whilst aspring towards a sustainable future.

Photos & text Copyright Griffin.

Griffin Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

The spring/summer 11 collection looks back to 1985 and the Katherine Hamnett era, baggy, oversized silhouettes and plenty of military detailing are the source of inspiration for this season’s collection.

Whilst we still delve into the Griffin archive for our classic, heritage garments like the Dartmouth and Imber jackets we challenge new technologies and dye techniques to create fresh and innovative detailing.

Bold features including oversized features, meet laser cut welts combined with bonded faux leather seams resulting in a performance meets fashion hybrid.

The colour palette is a mix of high contrast in black and white alongside a tonal DPM range of military green and sand and complimented with an electric blue as a highlight.

Desert Finnish DPM returns as the dominant camouflage with Swedish camouflage featured in a couple of pant and short styles as well.
Working closely with our Italian dye factory we have created a spray paint effect across a number of styles to give a worn, plastic look to the natural fabrics, catching only areas that the paint touches, leaving the undersides of pocket flaps and cuffs undyed, the effect subtly draws together the two contrasting base fabrics which include a mix of rich cottons and luxurious silks through to 3 layer technical waterproofs.

This season is about dramatic silhouettes, quality with a respect for local sourcing developed alongside new technology to make them relevant and functional to today’s lifestyle whilst aspiring towards a sustainable future.

Photos Copyright Griffin Studio.

We’re Moving…to the Cliffs

The Idea
Two years ago the Griffin family took a trip to Canada, whilst there they met a man who hung wooden pods in trees. This got Jeff thinking....If we can combine our love for the outdoors and our passion for what we do across areas other than fashion, we could create something really unique. Two years on, Griffin HQ is moving from its humble cowshed abode in the Wiltshire countryside to the Devonshire cliffs to put their ideas into action.

The Plan
In an area of outstanding natural beauty lays Hartland Farm a mile from Hartland point in North Devon and just a short walk from the dramatic Jurassic coastline. Soon to be the home of the Griffin Studio this rural location is the setting for our next project - An Eco Camping Retreat. A place to escape into the outdoors, camping without the mud, dome living in a sustainable and self sufficient environment. A creative place where people come to relax in an environment that is fun and at one with the outdoors. Working with the local community to create a social atmosphere bringing together outdoor sports, lectures and live music.

Why Now?

We have been designing men’s clothing for 16 years and whilst we're not millionaires we believe that what we do is appreciated by the people we sell to. Since moving out of London almost 10 years ago we have had some of our most successful years, this opportunity to think freely allows the realness to come through in our collections to deliver something that is truly distinctive. The country is our inspiration and these fresh surroundings in Devon will allow us to continue to create great clothing whilst building on our Griffin world to offer something new.

Follow Us
So as we say goodbye to Graceland & hello to Loveland we welcome the Griffin community to join us in our move. We will be blogging new updates and invite you to join us in conversation on facebook, twitter and the blog as the project develops. You can also subscribe to our blog to receive information direct to your inbox, click here to subscribe.

Photos Copyright Griffin Studio.

A Historical Collection by Griffin

I just recent this lengthy yet exciting press release from Griffin. Especially for history buffs like me, the release is particularly interesting as it narrates the historical context and origins of each garment:

Inspiration & Colour Range
We are not a simple one-dimensional brand, but a design studio producing clothing that fly’s under the radar. Combining the ultimate Griffin mix of urban clothing designed from our creative hub in the country, positively insular in our ideas, yet global in our free thinking approach we take inspiration from our travels and lifestyle, this autumn/winter 2010 collection results in an interesting mix of technology meets military.

With an appreciation for original military garments this season, we turn our attention to the American military uniforms of the 50’s and 60’s, pulling snorkel jackets and smock jackets from the extensive Griffin archive and researching classic movies such as the 1968 film “Ice Station Zebra” staring Rock Hudson (nothing quite like an old military film).

This season is all about a respect for local sourcing, traditional skills, quality and our heritage taking all these elements and developing alongside new technology and making them relevant and functional to today’s lifestyle whilst aspiring towards a sustainability future.

Core Items

Jackets
As the world reflects, we have taken the time to look back at our heritage, spending many hours rooting through our extensive archive to produce a collection that represents our original style whilst continuing to push the Griffin mix. Mixing high technology with traditional skills we have developed a style we became famed for in the mid 90’s, the Bareskin.

The ‘Technical Bareskin’ development started four years ago but only now we have access to the technology to achieve the garment we wanted.

The ‘Reversible Bareskin’ is a style taken from the U.S. Military Parka, a fantastic shape and Griffin Military favourite. Lengthened and finished with a true parka style fishtail hem, this bareskin has had a little volume added to the a-line silhouette adding a great swing to the back of the coat.

The ‘Dartmouth jacket’ is a short jacket designed with front bellow pockets, which have been bonded to give a modern take on the vintage which was traditionally re-enforced and an example of the new technology applied to the making of this garment. This jacket is fully reversible and features a limited run of Belgium Desert Camo on the outside, the lining inside is in black and white wool from Woolrich and manufactured in the USA since 1830. Finished with functional reversible sleeve tabs, a detail that came from an original reversible 1950’s snow smock, keeping it true to it roots the engineered hood has real fur but using fur that is off cuts and patch worked back together. This style has come from an idea that the military mainly used cotton’s not manmade fabrics, the wool is warm and the cotton is shower-proof and fully biodegradable.

The ‘Hope Cove Smock’ is a beautiful, simplistic, silhouette inspired by a U.S. Military 50’s smock coat. Its made in a classic black single layer fabric, as well as two Woolrich option. This jacket is incredibly versatile and works well as a jacket or a sweat. It has adjusters on the cuffs and two pockets on the front; the neckline is laced with an adjustable hood.

The ‘Technical Softshell’ jacket has a slim silhouette using softshell fabric combined with the traditional Woolrich red & black check. Its character is clean, modern and functional. The shape is ergonomically designed for plenty of movement with an off centre zip, featuring engineered sleeves with seams piped in camo. The hood is sculptured with piping details and features a rounded nose piece for smog protection.

As the Griffin farm adopts its first Wensleydale sheep for the Griffin farm. To coincide we have developed a ‘Parka Sheepskin’ with a local sheepskin tanner and manufacturer based in Somerset, England. The pattern was developed by Griffin in Italy and has a signature sleeve detail and a swing to the back of the coat creating a great shape. The coat also has a sculptured hood with high neck with a front riri zip, and two angled zip pockets on the front. The coat is a true Parka with a fishtail back. This unique garment is a limited edition product and available in two colour ways in both a full length and shorter version.

Trousers
The ‘Thai Pant’ is a style we introduced 10 years ago, it sold out immediately but was never reproduced, now 10 years on from its first introduction we thought it was the perfect time to develop this great silhouette. This season is a unique cross between a snow pant and a Thai trouser, a lot of room in the seat, with a low slung crotch and gusset. The trouser has a banana seam detail running down the front of the leg for shaping and darted at the back to create a sculptured leg.

The ‘USMC trouser’ is a style we have developed for a number of years and after a series of requests from customers and buyers we are reintroducing the pant. First developed from a 1945 boiler suit the USMC trouser is a wide leg pant with a low slung crotch. Fitted with large combat pockets and adjustable tabs at the hem these trousers offer a really comfortable fit. As a more commercial alternative the ‘Hanoi Pant’ is the sister style to this pant, designed with a slightly raised crotch and slimmer leg, this style is also available in a range of colours in both cotton and chunky corduroy.

The ‘Archback trouser’ is an iconic Griffin style; it was originally developed from a vintage climbing trouser. With ergonomically designed legs and darted knees the fit is wide but fitted with a low slung crotch. The zipped arch back panel is of course it’s most distinctive detail and a feature we can only achieve due to the flexibility of our great Italian factory. Traditionally a coat manufacturer, our factory has the ability to be more creative in the make than a traditional trouser manufacturer, using the finishes and detailing found in outerwear.

The ‘Banana trouser’ is slim fitting trouser with a four panel leg design plus a seam at the back of the knee which infuses the pant with a great bit of attitude and a great sculptural shape.

Collaborations
For Autumn/Winter 10 we have teamed up with world famous American fabric mill, Woolrich. Based in Pennsylvania, U.S.A. we were passionate about working with a fabric manufacturer that was rich in American heritage to fit with our U.S. military inspired collection. Wool was a fabric we wanted to work with for its traditional finish and great quality and have chosen Woolrich’s signature Red & Black check which can be found across a range of styles from the autumn/winter 10 collection.

This season we have once again teamed up with renowned fabric Mill, British Millerain. Based in Lancashire the mill has been providing waxed cottons and canvases for workwear to the military for 130 years. Having worked with the company a number of seasons ago making a canvas cover for my Land Rover and printing a tree camouflage we return to the company for their reputation for traditional military fabrics for the highest quality dry wax cottons. These fabrics are hard wearing yet lightweight, they are waterproof without carrying a heavy wax coating and this season can be found featured on our Reversible Bareskin Coat.

Our collaboration with Manchester based Baracuta continues this season. The brand that recently collaborated with Oasis was established in the 1930’s and was recognised for the distinctive Fraser tartan check. This season we have combined both key fabrics within our collection, the Woolrich red and black check with the Dry wax British Millerain fabric within the G9 silhouette in a signature Harrington cut made famous by the likes of Steve McQueen and Oasis. The Griffin X Baracuta range continues to be manufactured in England and is a Limited Edition product.

We have teamed up with Woolistic sportswear to design a collaborative cycling jersey after a request from our cyclist customers. Swiss-based knitwear company, Woolistic, have been designing high quality merino cycling jerseys for just 10 years, but in this short time having gained an international reputation for the quality and performance of their jerseys. We have mixed the heritage Swiss jersey colours into a unique piece crossing over the worlds of both fashion and sport. The back pocket features the Woolistic logo and Griffin heart, the silhouette is a classic slim silhouette built for performance and available in a long sleeve option for Autumn/Winter in either cream or black.

This season we have succeeded in finding a well established English shirt maker. Based in Kent, England, Rayner and Sturges have been manufacturing shirts for almost a hundred years and currently supply a number of Saville Row tailors and high-end designers. We have combined the great quality of the English manufacturing with some of Italy’s finest shirting fabrics from the famous mill Albini, to bring the ultimate quality shirt in an array of contrasting and exciting designs.

Manufacturing

Since the label began over 15 years ago we have been manufacturing the collection in the best Italian factories. Having trained in Italy, Jeff continues to support Italian manufacturing; this is because of the quality and skills of the factories and fabric mills. Based in the valleys of the Alps, the factory and its employees carry a passion that is very Italian they are great at what they do, and proud of the garments they produce. As well as the Griffin brand the factory also manufactures many luxury brands including Dries Van Notten, Missoni, Dior and Armani.

Where possible, we maximise the skills available within the UK, new this season we are working with Fenland Sheepskin, based in Somerset, the local sheepskin manufacturers’ tan and manufacture at their onsite factory. We continue working with factories such as original sportswear brand Gymphlex for our 100% cotton interlock jerseys, and Baracuta for our G9 collaboration jackets, all part of our Made in England range. Although price is important our ethical morals and beliefs come first, which is why we are asking our customers to invest in quality clothing, disposable clothing doesn’t help anyone.

See the entire collection here.

Photos Copyright
Griffin.

Stonehenge, Griffin & Greenwear for Men

Most of people have heard of Stonehenge—the iconic circular stone monument that dates back to about 2500 BC.

What often goes unspoken, however, is where the prehistoric monument is located; namely, in the county of Wiltshire, England.

Lying mostly on bed of chalk, Wiltshire abounds in rolling hills and wide valleys, in addition to a wealth of pre-Roman archeology.

Of recent, Wiltshire has now become home to Griffin Studio—a cutting edge and environmentally conscious men’s brand that was spearheaded in 1994 by Jeff Griffin.

Jeff kicked off his fashion career in Milan, Italy, after having graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martin’s College of Art. When he returned to England in 1994, Jeff founded his own label “Griffin Laundry.”

Currently at the age of 40, although Jeff continues to produce some outerwear pieces in Italy, he has been concentrating efforts on local production, such as in a wool mill just minutes away and with other British manufacturers like Barcuta and rain wear specialist Mackintosh.

Two season ago, Griffin Studio joined hands with outdoor wear experts, Berghaus, in developing a jacket that is made with recycled Gore-Tex.



Photo & slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Griffin Studio.