In preparation for the next issue of Uomo Moda, the 1st and only men’s magazine in Egypt for which I write, I would like to bring you a foretaste of what the issue will entail in this two-part artcle (click here for part 1):As some of you may already know, the 1800’s in Europe laid the foundation of the modern era for menswear, introducing concepts like lounge wear, formal wear, outdoor wear, sportswear, and the tuxedo. All styles, however, were based on the 3-piece suit. Changes were continual, occurring progressively with each decade and culminating in the 1890’s.
With the new notions of equality from the French Revolution, menswear became less ostentatious and more uniform. Embroideries and lace went out the window. The length of pants dropped to the ankle. Boots became a mainstay. The debonair dandy was conceived.
Double-breasted waist coats featured long tails and high collars. Overcoats were particularly façonnable. Broad shoulders and a narrow waist portrayed a real gentleman. High collar shirts were worn with a variety of cravats.
Out went the wigs and in came natural hair, just oiled or waxed. Curly hair was prized, as well as sideburns and—later—goatees. Conical hats evolved into the top hat and—soon—wide brim hats, bowler hats, and straw boaters were being sported.
Eventually the frock coat replaced the tailcoats, which were reserved for formal occasions, while numerous new styles of coats and jackets appeared on the scene. Collars evolved continually, as well as the shape of ties and bow ties. Shoe heels grew in height.
For the contemporary urban dandies of 2009-10, Giovane Gentile and Giovane G have kindly resurrected the slim silhouette of the 19th century dandy. As you will see, double-breasted jackets sported over classic cardigans stand center stage of the collection.
As for color, the collection takes us for a mid-Autumn walk through our favorite park with all the grey stones and withered leaves scattered about the ground. Clearly, we should not expect a lot of colors on this season’s palette with Giovane Gentile and Giovane G.
The colors for Autumn/Winter 2009-10 are more about setting the stage for texture—lots and lots of texture! Various shades of black and numerous tones of grey mingle with pure white in pattern checks, plaids, and argyles, as well as stripes, dots, and tiny squares.
Like the popularity of boots in the 1890’s, mid-ankle boots will be one of the key accessories that add authentic masculinity to the androgynous trends of Autumn/Winter 2010.
Alluding to the clean cuts of the tuxedo, the most formal look of Giovane Gentile and Giovane G for this season entails a relaxed version of the 3-piece suit.
Giovane Gentile and Giovane G—a vintage photograph of the dapper debonair dandy for the sophisticated modern man who has the time to care about himself!
Photo & slideshow 2009 a/w collection Copyright Giovane G.
