The other day I began a series of articles entitled “2011 Style Guide by Francesco,” indicating that the main staple of this fashion season is none other than the basic suit—only with a twist.In today’s article, I would to take an in-depth look at the suit and, particularly, the jacket. Now, whatever choice you make, ensure that you choose a jacket with season-appropriate fabric.
Cotton and linen are great for summer, while wool, flannels, tweed, and corduroy are suited for winter.
If you do decide to go with corduroy, find one with smaller-size wale so you don’t look like you are off to herd some sheep.
When hunting down your three-piece suit, two-piece suit, or jacket solo, stay away from anything that is baggy.
Remember, the look of the season is slim, slender, and elongated.
Always start with the shoulders. If the shoulders fit, most likely the rest of the jacket will fall into place.
Now, guys, you know where the seam between the shoulder and sleeve meets. For a well-fitted suit jacket, this seam should align with where your shoulder ends and not two inches, or even one inch, away.
Then, continuing down, the sleeves should be thin—not too spacious—extending to the wrist; that is, to the break between the arm and hand. In this way, you can allow a little shirt cuff to show, giving your arms an extra elongated effect.
As for the body, the suit jacket should narrow down the rib cage, creating a V effect for the upper torso. While the jacket should fit comfortably under the arms and around the chest, by all means, it should not be baggy or box fitting.
If you cannot find a jacket that is tailored in this snugly fitted way, no fears, : you can always have a good tailor take it in. This fit will make your shoulders appear wide and masculine, giving your torso a slim, sexy silhouette.
Length: Try not to buy a long jacket but rather one that is shorter, so that you keep the overall sleek effect. Long jackets tend to create a stockier appearance.
Another trick in creating a slender look this season is the height of the first button: it should be lower, below the sternum.
You can accentuate your sleek look with thin lapels and this rule: thin lapels, thin tie. So, top off the slim silhouette of the season with a thin tie!
See the entire Ljung 2010 autumn/winter collection here.
Photos Copyright Ljung.
